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  1. Today
  2. The Thatcham team have insured our cars for years, apart from a weird time with a V8 Discovery 3 that they were really pricey on. Rang them first when the Boxster was bought and the premium was £350 or so, didn't even think about ringing around at that point. Didn't know about the discount then... Doh! I have also had to make a claim in the past and they were dead easy to deal with, I recommend them.
  3. Yesterday
  4. Last week
  5. @ShazbotTop marks for the humour in the commentary and the ingenuity. Not a mod I will need, my kids are fighting me to drive mine. But I like your style.
  6. I love the look now...especially with the LED Fogs in there too
  7. Such a cheap and worth while modification. It really is a simple 5 minute job too. Literally.
  8. Just done this mod, how simple, with great results, Ive fitted the LED aftermarket whole light units! This now saves me switching them on!! Love it.
  9. I have found in the past to help locate and keep in place gaskets and such light items. Just a dab of grease to make it sticky and it generally holds them. Check that grease will not interfere with the parts in question , but in general it doesn't.
  10. To help with getting air out of the system it is useful to leave the back of the car on axle stands with the bleed valve open when you first run it upto temperature with a few revs.
  11. I've just replaced my water pump on my 986. The biggest faff I had was putting the new pump in place without the gasket dropping off or not lining up. After losing my temper and knuckle skin I had a brainwave (for me it's a brainwave). I cut the heads off two longer M6 bolts to give a long studs. Screw these in two of the top holes on the engine, hang the gasket and then offer up the pump, fix a couple of the normal bolts in to tighten up the pump, replace studs with bolts, happy days. Then think to myself "why didn't I think of that an hour ago? Why didn't I take pictures? I removed the driver seat as I carry a few extra pounds and my body doesn't bend like it used to. Wear a head torch.
  12. Earlier
  13. I would avoid Markerstudy like the plague... I experienced a catalogue of issues when my previous Boxster was written off in a non fault accident, some tactics employed by their ‘non fault department’ also known as a claims management company were borderline criminal. I wish I had escalated it to the appropriate body at the time but with everything going on I just wanted it sorted. Couldn’t wait to leave them to be honest & a company I hope to never have to deal with again. Up until the claim they were ok, but then I did buy on price. You get what you pay for.
  14. Not done a starter motor But its basically the same engine I think the covers underneath are slightly different
  15. Starter motor is making the strange whine every once in a while when starting. I’ve looked everywhere online but cannot find a decent guide on accessing it. Plenty around for the 986 but not 987.1 thanks
  16. @Araf , given the excellent pics and details in this thread, I'd propose to adjust the title and move to How To, could be useful for others.
  17. I paid £180 to have my lines replaced. I didn’t even think it was worth messing on for that££.
  18. I've just finished doing all my brake lines and they are not to hard but more fiddely to be honest. The front to rear can be a but funny as you do need to remove the inner plastic arch and I found it easier to remove the washer bottle. The hardest was the left to right front as it goes through a small area which has a few tight bends in it. The rear left to right goes across and round the engine bay and isn't hard at all. I'm sure if you have a few tools and have a bit of knowledge on cars you can do this job with not much hassle. If a pipe looks rusty replace it. I've seen a pipe that looks ok but just a little rust but did bust on the brake test. So lucky as it could have bust on my way home. Deffo change, don't sand and cover in grease.
  19. Thanks guys - loads of good information in there! That was from last September, so before the stricter testing was put in place - expecting it to fail so it's next on the list. I'll start off by getting the car on the ramps and looking at the condition of all of the pipes, not just the front-to-rear pipes that were highlighted by a specialist recently. Mine's had a "rear brake pipe replacement" at a specialist a few years back, so I'll dig in to what that actually means as well. Nothing ever been done at the front, so will check the state of the pipes in the wheelarches.
  20. Dodgy line in OSF wheelarch😳, literally fell apart as it was removed. These are useful Need to shield bits from heat and best to use a proper flared brake spanner Useful to make up some connectors to blank off when you remove pipes, just a connector with the copper pipe crimped with pliers Need to drop front ARB to get pipe across front of car. You need to feed in the pipe across the rear from the middle of the open clamshell/engine cover all the way and then feed it all the way back to the other wheel. No problems doing on axle stands, patience in removing the old connector is key as it would be easy to break things by being too rough. Lots of heat/cold cycles and tighten nuts slightly first to break corrosion before undoing. It was easier than replacing my exhaust manifolds😀
  21. Have a look through my post for details in doing this job. I replaced my front to back brake pipes on axle stands. First time I had ever made brake pipes as well, was quite satisfying.
  22. Interesting you got an advisory for a corroded brake line, since toughening the test earlier this year it is now a major fail even with a friendly tester I've used for years....! I got mine cleaned up to bare metal with emery cloth at the clip under the passenger door and lightly greased it so the tester could clearly see the bear metal to get it through on re-test and have since repainted and greased it back into the clip both there and at the clip near the front left wheel.. I have to do the lines as good preventative maintenance now I know there was an issue but I haven't got a flare tool. Do you reckon it would be feasible to tackle this doing the whole lines front to rear on axle stands @Nobbie ? Also if you have the pictures?
  23. I replaced the whole lot as once I started looking closely the rust was quite widespread. Worst area was just under the OSF inner wheelarch which you won't see normally unless you take the wheel off and get your head in there with a torch. You may be luckier than me. I gave some tips in my running report (last page) There is one line from the distribution point in the NSF wheelarch to a junction halfway down the sill where it splits into two lines. One goes to the NSR caliper and the other goes via the NSR wheelarch and then across the bulkhead behind the engine to the OSR caliper. On mine, the corrosion on this line wasn't too bad and it is a bugger to replace, so if it's just the front to rear lines that are rusted, might be more practice to put a joint around the NSR wheelarch somewhere. I've got some more photos from when I did the job if there is anything you want some more detail on.
  24. Both my front-to-rear brake lines have corrosion on them. I need to get under the car to validate the extent, but it was an advisory last September and from the history of the car it seems they're original. In terms of replacement, I guess I've got two options (regardless of whether I do the work myself or not) - either replace the whole line or make a join and replace the rusted area only. I've got access to the chamfering kit required for the latter. What option have others around here gone for, and are there any particular points to watch out for? Thanks Matt
  25. My baby is up for sale 😢😢

    received_2246326605685879.jpeg

  26. Knowing I was replacing them, I ended up cutting the old ones off with a junior hacksaw when I was struggling to unscrew them. Much easier! Hopefully not something you'll need to worry about again, though!
  27. @thefunkygibbon, it's not the biggest faff of a job I've had to deal with by any means, and having the ability to have my wind deflector back and secure when I have the roof down has made it worthwhile. Given the way my clip had broken, I think Sugru wouldn't have done much and I trust a mechanical fix more than - say - a duct tape fix for such a part. Wind deflectors are expensive to replace if they fly off the car! I got the clips from a seller of them on eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Porsche-Boxster-986-Wind-Deflector-Fitting-Mounting-Kit/192232237665 They were basically Porsche parts though and would probably cost the same from Porsche themselves. I just didn't want to drive to my OPC to pick them up (though in the end had to go for other parts anyway, only to find the guys at Porsche would've just posted them too if I'd wanted...).
  28. wow, this seems a massive faff. one of my clips is broken, it keeps the deflector in place for now but i guess its just a matter of time. I think i'll try to fix with some sugru instead of getting hold of a rivet gun etc!! out of interest, where did you get the replacement clips and how much were they?
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