JonHoward42 Posted June 28, 2014 Report Share Posted June 28, 2014 Since first getting my Boxtser (MY2000 986 2.7) a few years ago, I wanted to get cruise control installed and functional. It's one of those little luxuries I find incredably useful in modern driving with the enevitable long journeys, increasing numbers of average speed cameras, etc so after some research, I went ahead and did the retrofit. At this point, I'd like to point out this is my experience of installing cruise to my own car - different model years have slightly different requirements, small wiring changes and differing coding specifics. I'm by no means an expert in the Boxster electrical system, but I managed to piece this information together from various websites, forums, the Pelican Parts Book "101 Project for your Porsche Boxster" and a healthy dose of good old common sense. Before going ahead, I'd recommend anyone attempting this retrofit have a look around forums and the Pelican Parts website/book. A couple of useful links to get you started: RennTech: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/661-cruise-control/ Pelican Parts: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/92-ELEC-Cruise_Control/92-ELEC-Cruise_Control.htm Basically, the following is what worked for me, your car might be different. I'm offering no guarantees! :-) The main steps I followed were: - Getting all the necessary parts together - Disassembly - Fitting new 4-stalk unit - Creating, routing and connecting a new wiring loom - Reassembly - Coding & testing I've tried include as much detail as possible (along with photos) so this may turn into quite a long thread. I'll break it up into a few posts. OK, let's begin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonHoward42 Posted June 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2014 Part 1 - The shopping list These are the main parts I had to buy: - 1 x 4-Stalk Cluster (996.613.219.10 EWC) - 1 x Cruise Stalk Cap (996.613.505.00 A01) - 1 x Wiper/Cruise Stalks Grommet (993.552.573.01 01C) - 1 x Cruise Stalk Wiring Connector (999.650.512.40) - 10 x Wiring Pins (999.652.901.22) - you only 8, but get a couple of spares - 1 x VW Wiring connector (000-979-010-E) The VW part I got from my local VW garage. The others I got from OPC Hatfield but you'll probably be able to get these cheaper from eBay or similar. I tried (and failed) to get a 4-stalk unit from eBay, so bit the bullet and paid full price from a brand new unit from Porsche, the other parts are cheap, even from Porsche. So, this is the pile of bits I ended up with... In a little more detail... 4-stalk control (996.613.219.10 EWC): Cruise stalk cap (996.613.505.00 A01):The new 4-stalk unit came with matt finished stalk caps and, as my car is a MY2000, it has a gloss finish on the other controls. The stalk caps all unclip so I transferred over my old ones. Wiper/cruise stalk rubber grommet (993.552.573.01 01C): Connector plug for cruise stalk wiring (999.650.512.40): Connector pins for above connector block and DME plug (999.652.901.22): VW wiring connector/pin(s) (000-979-010-E): Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonHoward42 Posted June 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2014 Part 2 - Disassembly First things first: - Open the bonnet (to get at the battery) - Open the boot (to get at the DME) - Put the roof into the maintenance position (to make cable routing easier) - Set the igntion key to 'on' (to save the alarm going off) - Disconnect the battery Safety! We are going to be disconnecting the airbag. Do not touch any of the airbag electrical connections with the battery connected. Disconnect the battery and wait at least 15-20 minutes before doing anything airbag related! Whilst waiting for the system to fully discharge and ensure the airbag could be disconnected safely, I set about disassembling some of the other bits and pieces necessary... Remove the Torx screws securing the instrument cluster. Right screw (behind microphone cover):(The cable hanging out of the right side of my dash is for the microphone of my AppRadio 2) And left screw (behind hazard warning button): Next, lift the instrument cluster vertically and it should come free: Disconnect the wiring for the hazard warning button, the three plugs on the rear of the instrument cluster and set the unit aside. Be careful not to damage/scratch it, I put mine on a soft towel. Pull back the carpet in the boot to reveal the DME. There are a few plastic retainers you need to remove: Remove the small plasic plugs covering the mouting screws and loosen (but do not remove) the three screws securing the sill trim panel which contains the boot/bonnet releases and move the panel aside - I routed my cables under here:(This was the hardest part of the whole install - not because it was difficult (it's acutally very easy), but space was tight and my Torx set was a bit big for the available space) Remove the driver's side B-pillar trim. There is a small nut at the top and a fairly hidden screw towards the bottom which need loosening and removing respectively: Said trim panel removed (I routed the wires up here): By the time I'd done all of this, more than 20 minutes had passed so the next step was to remove the steering wheel and fit the new 4-stalk control unit. The following video (nothing to do with me) may be of help when removing the steering wheel: Unscrew the two Torx screws securing the airbag/horn push to the steering wheel. These screws do not actually come out of the steering wheel, they are retained on springs: The airbag can be lifted away from the steering wheel: Disconnect the central airbag connector and the two spade connectors: Mark the relative position of the securing nut, steering wheel and splined steering column shaft. Loosen the securing nut with a 24mm socket but do not yet fully remove it yet. Grab the steering wheel at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions and tug the wheel loose of the splined shaft. Remove the nut and steering wheel. Put a bit of tape on the 'Clock Spring Unit' (I'm not ceratin of the technical term) to prevent it moving around. (I forgot to take photos of this part of the process) Next, unscrew the 4 screws securing the front plate of the steering column cover and remove: Then remove the two small Torx screws holding the upper and lower parts of the column cover: Remove the two screws securing the 'Clock Spring unit' to the existing stalk unit and set the 'Clock Spring Unit' aside: Next, either mark or measure the relative position of your existing stalk unit to the steering column. For reference, the flat metallic surface of the stalk unit was exactly 55mm from the end of the splined steering column shaft. Now we can loosen the single clamp bolt holding the stalks in place: Disconnect the two large wiring plugs from the rear of the stalk unit and remove the stalk unit: At this point, you can install your new 4-stalk unit to the steering column. Make sure you install and secure the new unit in the same relative position as the old one (55mm from the end of the splined end of the column in my case). Again, sorry. I forgot to photograph this step, but installation is literally the reversal of the remove process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonHoward42 Posted June 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2014 Part 3 - Wiring We now move onto some wires. I needed 5 lengths of wire for my install and chose different colours to make identifing them later on much easier. These are the pinouts and connectivity instructions described by the Pelican Parts website: And a general wiring diagram showing the cruise wiring connections for a MY2000 car: NB: Having spoken to Richard Hamilton about some of the wiring, it appears the information on the Pelican Parts website (and their book) may actually be incorrect. It would seem that only MY2000 cars need the connection between the DME and instrument cluster (to light the bulb on the dash); MY2001 and onwards use the CANbus system to communicate with the instrument cluster and illuminate the cruise bulb. If you connect the DME to the instrument cluster on a MY2001 or later car, you'll probably blow the cruise circuitry in the DME. Be warned! :-) OK, on to making the wiring loom. I started by running the cables trough the car, following the approximate route they'd ultimately take so I could get an idea of cable lengths. I temporarily tied the new loom with cable ties where cables entered or left the loom (I removed the cable ties later when I wrapped it): I then wrapped the loom with OEM style fabric tape:(I get a bit OCD about the OEM look at times, hence the fabric tape. I'll probably be the only person that will see it, but it's nice to know the job has been done properly) Next, route it through the car. I started at the front (instrument cluster area), down the A-pillar following the main wiring loom. One wire (destined to be spliced to the B7 fuse connection) branches off to the fuse box at this point (I managed to bundle it into the main loom going to the fuse box): The remaining loom bundle carries on into the cavity beneith the boot/bonnet release levers: Then up the B-pillar area: Under the foam water drip trays (through which rain water passes into the drain holes) and through a hole near the top of the rear driver's side damper which leads to the boot:(PS - Now might be a good time to check those drain holes!) Finally, the new wiring loom emerges in the boot and up to the DME: Now we need to start joining wires to the various connectors detailed in the table and wiring diagram above. I started with the connection to fuse B7. I'm not a fan of those crimp-on style connectors and prefer to make a solder joint where possible. In this case, I stripped off the insulation of the existing wire and soldered the wire from my new loom on it, before wrapping with insulating tape: I then crimped 4 of the 999.652.901.22 pins to the dashboard end of the new loom and soldered them on for good measure before installing them into the 999.650.512.40 connector block. This then connected in to the plug coming from the cruise stalk: Next up I cut the VW wire/pin assembly in half (you actually only need half) and installed the pin end into the blue instrument cluster connector plug (pin 16): Then soldered this to the remaining wire from my new loom and insulated with some heatshrink: Lastly, I removed some of the factory loom wrapping and rewrapped the cable bundle including the extra cable (again, a bit OCD I know): The last part of the wiring involved connecting up the DME. Again, I crimped and soldered 4 of the 999.652.901.22 pins to the DME end of the new loom and connected these to DME connector #4 (pins 18, 19, 25 & 27) as per the details above:(The 4th and 5th connectors of the DME are obscured by an anti-tamper metal bracket which is fixed to the bulkhead with same sort of anti-tamper nut. I unscrewed this with the aid of a pair of mole grips) We now move onto some wires. I needed 5 lengths of wire for my install and chose different colours to make identifing them later on much easier. These are the pinouts and connectivity instructions described by the Pelican Parts website: And a general wiring diagram showing the cruise wiring connections for a MY2000 car: NB: Having spoken to Richard Hamilton about some of the wiring, it appears the information on the Pelican Parts website (and their book) may actually be incorrect. It would seem that only MY2000 cars need the connection between the DME and instrument cluster (to light the bulb on the dash); MY2001 and onwards use the CANbus system to communicate with the instrument cluster and illuminate the cruise bulb. If you connect the DME to the instrument cluster on a MY2001 or later car, you'll probably blow the cruise circuitry in the DME. Be warned! :-) OK, on to making the wiring loom. I started by running the cables trough the car, following the approximate route they'd ultimately take so I could get an idea of cable lengths. I temporarily tied the new loom with cable ties where cables entered or left the loom (I removed the cable ties later when I wrapped it): I then wrapped the loom with OEM style fabric tape:(I get a bit OCD about the OEM look at times, hence the fabric tape. I'll probably be the only person that will see it, but it's nice to know the job has been done properly) Next, route it through the car. I started at the front (instrument cluster area), down the A-pillar following the main wiring loom. One wire (destined to be spliced to the B7 fuse connection) branches off to the fuse box at this point (I managed to bundle it into the main loom going to the fuse box): The remaining loom bundle carries on into the cavity beneith the boot/bonnet release levers: Then up the B-pillar area: Under the foam water drip trays (through which rain water passes into the drain holes) and through a hole near the top of the rear driver's side damper which leads to the boot:(PS - Now might be a good time to check those drain holes!) Finally, the new wiring loom emerges in the boot and up to the DME: Now we need to start joining wires to the various connectors detailed in the table and wiring diagram above. I started with the connection to fuse B7. I'm not a fan of those crimp-on style connectors and prefer to make a solder joint where possible. In this case, I stripped off the insulation of the existing wire and soldered the wire from my new loom on it, before wrapping with insulating tape: I then crimped 4 of the 999.652.901.22 pins to the dashboard end of the new loom and soldered them on for good measure before installing them into the 999.650.512.40 connector block. This then connected in to the plug coming from the cruise stalk: Next up I cut the VW wire/pin assembly in half (you actually only need half) and installed the pin end into the blue instrument cluster connector plug (pin 16): Then soldered this to the remaining wire from my new loom and insulated with some heatshrink: Lastly, I removed some of the factory loom wrapping and rewrapped the cable bundle including the extra cable (again, a bit OCD I know): The last part of the wiring involved connecting up the DME. Again, I crimped and soldered 4 of the 999.652.901.22 pins to the DME end of the new loom and connected these to DME connector #4 (pins 18, 19, 25 & 27) as per the details above:(The 4th and 5th connectors of the DME are obscured by an anti-tamper metal bracket which is fixed to the bulkhead with same sort of anti-tamper nut. I unscrewed this with the aid of a pair of mole grips) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonHoward42 Posted June 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2014 Part 4 - Reassembly On the home stretch now - just a matter of putting things back together. I started by reinstalling the the boot liner, B-pillar trim piece, driver's door sill panel and fusebox. Next I moved on to the steering column and screwed the clock spring assembly back into place: Upper and lower column covers along with the new 993.552.573.01 01C rubber grommet: And front column cover piece: Next, on to the instrument cluster. Amazingly, there was already a bulb installed in the cruise indicator position on my cluster. Double check yours as the cruise will not work without it: Reconnect the 3 plugs to the rear of the instrument cluster, the connector to the hazard waring button, place the cluster back in place on the top of the dash and reinstall the 2 fixing screws: Finally, time for the steering wheel. Align the witness marks on the wheel (made earlier during disassembly) with those on the splined end of the steering column. Then screw on the retaining nut aligning the witness marks again to ensure the correct torque: Reconnect the central airbag connector, two spade connectors and then screw the airbag back into place: Lastly, reconnect the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonHoward42 Posted June 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2014 Part 5 - Coding Last part of the puzzle is to enble the cruise function in the DME. MY2001 (and later) cars require the instrument cluster to be coded as well but my MY2000 only required the DME: Switch to "with cruise control" and hit F8 to code: Once coded, I double checked each of the cruise stalk functions with my PST2 as well as the clutch and brake switches to ensure cruise would deactivate as it should. Fortunately, I managed to wire everything correctly and all was good. Last step was to go for a test drive Job done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonHoward42 Posted June 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2014 Sorry about the repeated section in post #4 - I don't seem to be able to edit the post any more and correct that. Can a moderator help me out here and remove the duplicated section? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topradio Posted June 28, 2014 Report Share Posted June 28, 2014 Well that's the most comprehensive write up I think that I've seen, it must have taken a while to do. I did the cruise mod to my car (non e-gas) a few years ago and like you I made up the looms with fabric tape and soldered / heat shrink the joints. Like yours, I think you would have to look carefully to see that it wasn't done in the factory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike597 Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 great write up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickLS7 Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 Excellent guide, better than any I have seen on other sites.. I added cruise & OBC to mine a couple of years ago, the facelift cars are so much easier, you just have to remove the steering wheel and instrument cluster on those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonHoward42 Posted June 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 Thanks for the kind comments. It's my first how-to guide and came out a bit longer than I expected but hopefully someone will find it useful in the future.In the coming weeks, I'll be doing a 996 instrument cluster upgrade. I've ordered a suitable instrument cluster from eBay, I just need to read up on the coding process. I'll write up a how-to for that as well assuming there isn't already one here on the forum (I'll have a look in a bit).I'm also designing and building a one-touch roof control (similar in function to the SmartTop) which I'll publish the design for once I've confirmed it's all working. If you know how to work a soldering iron, it should be possible to make one for about £30~£40. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topradio Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 Jon - I have done the cluster upgrade. I used my original one and added the two outer gauges, that way I kept the correct mileage and embedded VIN, its also said that there can be a problem with the fuel tank calibration depending upon the donor cluster, and as mine is a 2.5 the red line would have been in the wrong place as well.All I had to do was read the EEPROM, edit one field in the HEX table (to enable the voltage gauge) and blow the data back in.I was going to make my own smart top using two latching relays or possibly a 555 timer but never got around to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BestGear Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 Great write up... thanks for taking all the time to compile it.David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mavis.d Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 JonThat was a great write up, bet the post took longer that the job it's self! I have had mine coded for OBC and cruise as I have neither. Your post has only re-enforced my opinion that it should crack on as soon as I'm back from my holls. I had already decided to buy a new unit from OPC due to the lack of units for sale and the high price, for not much more I'd rather have a new unit.Great anyway well doneDavid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonHoward42 Posted June 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 JonThat was a great write up, bet the post took longer that the job it's self! I have had mine coded for OBC and cruise as I have neither. Your post has only re-enforced my opinion that it should crack on as soon as I'm back from my holls. I had already decided to buy a new unit from OPC due to the lack of units for sale and the high price, for not much more I'd rather have a new unit.Great anyway well doneDavidThanks David - it took a little while to write up and get the photos done but I've been a follower of the forum for a while and learnt plenty of useful stuff so I figured it was about time to give something back! I'd certainly recommend it the mod. Depending on the year of your car, there may be slight differences to the procedure but none of it's rocket science.Good luck and happy Boxstering! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danch Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 JonThat was a great write up, bet the post took longer that the job it's self! I have had mine coded for OBC and cruise as I have neither. Your post has only re-enforced my opinion that it should crack on as soon as I'm back from my holls. I had already decided to buy a new unit from OPC due to the lack of units for sale and the high price, for not much more I'd rather have a new unit.Great anyway well doneDavidThanks David - it took a little while to write up and get the photos done but I've been a follower of the forum for a while and learnt plenty of useful stuff so I figured it was about time to give something back! I'd certainly recommend it the mod. Depending on the year of your car, there may be slight differences to the procedure but none of it's rocket science.Good luck and happy Boxstering! Jon, What did you use to enable the obc& cruise control ?, did you use company or have you PIWIS/PST2 ?Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonHoward42 Posted July 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 JonThat was a great write up, bet the post took longer that the job it's self! I have had mine coded for OBC and cruise as I have neither. Your post has only re-enforced my opinion that it should crack on as soon as I'm back from my holls. I had already decided to buy a new unit from OPC due to the lack of units for sale and the high price, for not much more I'd rather have a new unit.Great anyway well doneDavid Thanks David - it took a little while to write up and get the photos done but I've been a follower of the forum for a while and learnt plenty of useful stuff so I figured it was about time to give something back! I'd certainly recommend it the mod. Depending on the year of your car, there may be slight differences to the procedure but none of it's rocket science.Good luck and happy Boxstering! Jon, What did you use to enable the obc& cruise control ?, did you use company or have you PIWIS/PST2 ?DanOBC was factory fit on my car and the cruise I enabled with a PST2 I bought from a forum member recently. From what I've read, many indies will do the coding via PST2/PIWIS for a minimal fee. If you're local to the Abbots Langley/St Albans area, I'd be happy to help out if you're doing a similar upgrade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickLS7 Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 My specialist coded mine for free when I took it on for a service. I bought a Durametric cable recently so would be able to do it myself if not done already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danch Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 My specialist coded mine for free when I took it on for a service. I bought a Durametric cable recently so would be able to do it myself if not done already.Rick, Durametric cannot code cluster changes Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starline250 Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 My specialist coded mine for free when I took it on for a service. I bought a Durametric cable recently so would be able to do it myself if not done already.Rick, Durametric cannot code cluster changes DanI think you'll find the Durametric professional version can code the cluster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danch Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 My specialist coded mine for free when I took it on for a service. I bought a Durametric cable recently so would be able to do it myself if not done already.Rick, Durametric cannot code cluster changes DanI think you'll find the Durametric professional version can code the cluster.I apologise It can activate the OBC/Cruise but cannot code VIN/Model changes if swappping a cluster (I meant) only PST2/PIWIS can do that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickLS7 Posted July 4, 2014 Report Share Posted July 4, 2014 My specialist coded mine for free when I took it on for a service. I bought a Durametric cable recently so would be able to do it myself if not done already.Rick, Durametric cannot code cluster changes DanI think you'll find the Durametric professional version can code the cluster.The latest enthusiast cable can do limited coding, think it's just OBC and cruise.The cable was a real disappointment, my car didn't have any engine, alarm, air bag or air con fault codes in memory. I shouldn't complain! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mavis.d Posted August 7, 2014 Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 JonThat was a great write up, bet the post took longer that the job it's self! I have had mine coded for OBC and cruise as I have neither. Your post has only re-enforced my opinion that it should crack on as soon as I'm back from my holls. I had already decided to buy a new unit from OPC due to the lack of units for sale and the high price, for not much more I'd rather have a new unit.Great anyway well doneDavid Thanks David - it took a little while to write up and get the photos done but I've been a follower of the forum for a while and learnt plenty of useful stuff so I figured it was about time to give something back! I'd certainly recommend it the mod. Depending on the year of your car, there may be slight differences to the procedure but none of it's rocket science.Good luck and happy Boxstering! Fitted cruise and obc yesterday and your guide was a great help especially the bit below as mine did not need the connection, I had run the cable just incase. Everything worked as it should first go. Next time I'm down at drago.d's, Kings Langley I'll buy you a beer it's the least you deserve.CheersDavidNB: Having spoken to Richard Hamilton about some of the wiring, it appears the information on the Pelican Parts website (and their book) may actually be incorrect. It would seem that only MY2000 cars need the connection between the DME and instrument cluster (to light the bulb on the dash); MY2001 and onwards use the CANbus system to communicate with the instrument cluster and illuminate the cruise bulb. If you connect the DME to the instrument cluster on a MY2001 or later car, you'll probably blow the cruise circuitry in the DME. Be warned! :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonHoward42 Posted August 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 David, you're very welcome - I'm glad it all worked out for you.Last weekend I managed to complete my installation of a 996 instrument cluster as well so I'll be doing a write up of that too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mavis.d Posted August 7, 2014 Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 David, you're very welcome - I'm glad it all worked out for you.Last weekend I managed to complete my installation of a 996 instrument cluster as well so I'll be doing a write up of that too.Very interested in that one, how did it go? Hope it didn't affect your newly installed cruise and obc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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