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myboxa

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About myboxa

  • Rank
    Boxa - Team Player

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    tonyglov986@gmail.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North Yorks

Previous Fields

  • My Ride
    986 S, scirroco TDI

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  1. You wont mate its easy enough, just set a couple of hours and take your time, it really is an easy job
  2. Not such a big job but every little helps mate
  3. Thought i might start a little thread on the old Box, i have a few jobs planned and thought some of them may be of help to somebody I have a had a knocking at the rear which developed quite recently and thought at first it was the drivers side coffin arm, Passenger side changed not long after i bought it, had a look around underneath and found the bushes in the rear anti roll bar had some play, so changed them prior to the MOT, thought if the rears are shot then its highly likely the fronts have gone or going, to be honest i also had a knocking at the front but never found anything so suspected it could be the bush at the top of the struts which i intend to replace at a later date. Car is a daily driver up to now as the wife needs use of the other so i need to plan jobs in, Ordered some powerflex purple bushes for the front anti roll bar and picked them up this afternoon and thought while its dry tonight i might as well crack on and change em. This how i did mine and the job only took just over 1 hour, just plodding on and cups of coffeein between, now i have done it once the job would probaly take half the time if it had to be repeated hoping that don't need to ahppen for while Jacked front of car up and had look at what was involved did not look to hard so decided to crack on, the fronts are a little more involved than the rears and need a few bits removing, this isn't to difficult, only needed 3 sockets and a small screw driver. first job was to remove the front undertray, 4 plastic nuts on each corner, the rest of the undertray is held in place by spring clips, 6 if i remember rightly. not come across this type before, and after a little poking about decided the best way was to slip a small screw driver in between the clip and the undertray, (see Pic) and gently prise them off, ( when doing it this way watch it as the little fekkers fly) Once the undertary is removed you can then gain acess to the ARB bracket, and the 2 cross braces, these will need to be removed to allow the ARB to drop low enough to easily remove the bush and top bracket You will need to remove both the bolts that secure the anti roll bar bush and the bolt that secures the front tuning fork, slackening the bracket bolt (front one) that sescures the bracket to the tub and winding it off will allow you to swing the bracket out of the way. Once the ARB drops you will then see the bush and top bracket, push the top bracket up and remove then remove the bush top bracket removed new bushes once the bushes were out you could see they did look oval compared to the new ones, due to the ARB being mostly covered by the undertray it was difficult to check them in situ for any play, one Geo set up and an MOT failed to identify them. Reinstall the bushes onto the roll bar and slide the top bracket back making sure the bracket is aligned to the raised edges on the bushes then push them back into place, the lower bracket will need to be refitted and tightened up make push them fully home. (ready for lower bracket to be refit) refit the lower brackets and only tighten fully the front bolt and the tuning fork bolt, runt the ARB bolts up but dont tighten them fully yet.(make sure the bushes are pushe up against the stop ring on the ARB, Dont know why but the ARB bolts on one side went straight, in the other side took a bit of fiddling, make sure you get quite a few turns of the bolts by hand before attempting to ratchet them up, just in case you manage to cross thread them. Next refit and tighten the cross brace bolts. then lower the car back onto the floor, i turned the steering wheel a couple of times lock to lock and pushed down on the wings to settle the suspension, you can then reach under and fully tighthen the remaing ARB bracket bolts.(rear 2) Jack the car back up, check all bolts are tight and not missed any and refit the plastic undertray dont refit the plastic nuts until after you have slipped the spring clips back into place as you may have to move the undertray about a bit to refit the clips, final check and time for road test. RESULT knocking gone, hoping the bit of wandering when on the bumpy stuff has disappeared will find that out later hope this may be of use to somebody, never thought to look and see if its in the How To Thread , i have received plenty of good info from the site and members in the past so thought i may give a little back in return.
  4. Thought I would give some of the site sponsors a go, £525 and 500 excess and £430 and 300 excess quotes. fully comp,9 years no claims, and 9 bonus points just been on tinternet and got it for £294 and 300 excess," happy days"and that's £30 cheaper than last year with the same company did have to start again, as a returning customer it would have been a little more. so as he Tony says above it pays to shop around
  5. Are you not risking a tug by plod, when the vehicle details don't match
  6. Tony Is this the sort of thing, I am have the bose on a 2003 S and would really like to change to a double din, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hosa-ODL-276A-Digital-Audio-Interface-S-PDIF-Coax-to-S-PDIF-Optical-/230975084974?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item35c73019ae Cheers Tony G Your link is for an spdif to coax (or vice versa) converter. That will not help you with MOST and the Bose system I'm afraid. Cheers mate great post by the way, should be of great help to some of the guys
  7. Tony Is this the sort of thing, I am have the bose on a 2003 S and would really like to change to a double din, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hosa-ODL-276A-Digital-Audio-Interface-S-PDIF-Coax-to-S-PDIF-Optical-/230975084974?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item35c73019ae Cheers Tony G
  8. if thinner is better for the snow why not put 2 space savers on
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