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About mxm1275

  • Rank
    Boxa - Beginner
  • Birthday 09/01/1978

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Worthing, West Sussex
  • Interests
    Cars, Motorbikes, appliance repair, cooking, beer making

Previous Fields

  • My Ride
    Boxster 2.7 2003, Yamaha XT600 Tenere

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  1. Hello all, Here's a little video which I hope will help others who've come across this problem before.
  2. I thought I'd share my headlight experience. I know this has been covered before, but it's worth noting that a new headlight switch costs over £100. My headlight switch has recently become unreliable, needing a few repeated turns to activate the headlights. I knew that it wouldn't be long before it gives out all together, so took it off the car. After bending the tabs, I exposed the electrical contacts. Basically, it needed a good clean up with contact cleaner, just general stuff, nothing fancy. I used cheapo stuff from Toolstation, £2.51 I think. Just hope the fix lasts! Matt.
  3. let me know how you want paying for the smoked corner chap

  4. Hi Vroomba, I haven't watched the video, but I see your method doesn't mention PSM. Is there a special method for this? I understood there was. My '03 2.7 986 has PSM and I've been told that traditional bleeding won't work without the car's DME being set for 'brake bleed mode'. Is this true?
  5. My car needs some use!

  6. How's the gear linkage?!

  7. New discs and pads ordered... just need good weather now.

  8. Yeah, the black button things. The Halfords ones just popped on for me, the soldering iron stayed in the shed this time!
  9. Hello, just thought I share a little easy fix. The screw covers on my Boxster's seat belt chair retaining loop were missing. A Halfords black number plate screw/ cover is almost identical to the Porsche original and fits perfectly. I replaced mine today and it now looks totally standard.
  10. Just renewed my Boxster insurance yesterday and after doing several online quotes I managed to get a better (much reduced excess and protected NCD) policy using A Plan. I dealt with Amber who did exactly what she said she was going to do. I experienced good service, so felt compelled to share my experiences. Worth a try.
  11. Next thing to look at:  Gear linkages... getting a little bit stiff when cold.  There's a joke in there surely?!

  12. Certainly saved a few quid... total spend on parts was £220 (pump, gasket and coolant) from Eurocarparts. The pump and gasket was genuine Porsche. Porsche specialist quoted just under £600.
  13. Hello fellow Boxster owners... I have just replaced the water pump on my 2003/ 2.7 986 and thought I would post my experience to help fellow owners as there seems to be some conflicting advice online. Just some pointers for those considering doing this task. Tools required. 10mm spanner (open and closed end)Deep 10mm socketNormal 10mm socketSmall cutters (to cut gasket if not replacing thermostat)Normal lifting gear, axel stands etcSundries Light emery cloth/ paper to clean surfacesNew coolant. I used red/pink non Porsche concentrate (which supercedes the green and blue type)Advice! Replacement of the water pump do-able by the home mechanic- dont be put offYou'll need jack the car up and support to gain access to the middle of the carYou'll need to remove the inspection panel behind the seats. I'm average build and I didn't remove the seats.Drain all of the coolant you can in to a bucket for disposal (I used a washing up bowl for space saving)Replace the belt if you suspect the one you haveYou'll need to cut the new gasket to remove the thermostat bit (save for sometime later) if not using, use cuttersMake a note of which bolts go where and replace the pumpTop up with new coolant, I used an approximate 50/50 mix ishLocate the bleed valve under the radiator cap plastic panel and lift leverStart engine and bleed by running up to tempIf you get an air lock as I did, you'll need to possibly reset the temp error in thr cars memory before the gauge will work again.Go for a drive, take off the axel stands first. Good luck.
  14. Transferred from tech/discussion. OK, first things first. The 'reset' folks are talking about will ONLY calibrate the window to 'drop' all the way down or wind all the way up on one 'click' of the window button (as opposed to holding the button). Many cars with electric windows have this feature and you'll need to reinitialise it if the battery is every disconnected. This process tells the car that the window is really where it is, which is important for the Boxster as the window winds down independently of the window button under two conditions; door open and close and roof up and down. To reset one should: 1 Disconnect battery (make sure you have your ignition set to on (all bulbs on dash on) or youll set your alarm off. 2 Reconnect battery 3 Wind both windows down (youll need to hold the button down now) 4 Wind both up, when window stops, keep holding the button for another 5 seconds or so and this will calibrate the system 5 Check that the window will wind down with one button click. Enjoy easy window operation. The window height adjustment is the source of many issues: 1 Door wind noise (if there are gaps between window and seals) 2 Leaks (as above) 3 Creaking (if the window rises too far against the window seal/ trim) 4 Hitting door trim on cabrio-roof Those of you familiar with your Boxster will notice that when the inside or outside door handle is pulled, youll hear a little click/ tick which is a micro-switch which tells the window to drop a 'smidge' giving clearance between window and seal allowing smoother opening and closing. The window should not come into contact with the door trim (as mine did). Wind noise. There is always a little wind noise on Boxsters, But it should not howl! Before embarking on window adjustment, check the following: 1 Rubber grommets in the base of the door. There are 4, make sure theyre all present. Two cover the window stops, two cover the regulator lower brackets. 2 Under the door card, there is a plastic/ foam (not sure of the materials name) which is stuck to the door. It should be secure and glued in securely all the way round where the door card poppers go. There is also some gluing point where the door grab handle screws pass from the handle to the door. Check! 3 Rubber and felt door trim. Is this in good condition? If split or flat, that will not help noise. 4 There are also some grommets in the door under the door cards covering the upper regulator fixings. Wayne Dempsey/ PelicanParts covers window adjustment in great (very good) detail (that book has been a lifeline for many jobs and if you plan to keep and care of your 986/987 Boxster, its essential for your workshop. My copy is now well-thumbed. Having said that, if youre convinced you need to adjust your window height and or angle, here are some tips you might find useful. I adjusted my windows on my 03 986 as my near side window (front edge) just clipped the cabrio trim when opening, which was annoying more than anything else and I had to replace the regulator in my offside door, which needed the works. The window height is adjusted from underneath the door, outer grommets. Youll need a good torch and a 5mm socked and long thin driver to reach, unless you have the correct E6 Star female socket. 5mm hex works fine for this job. The window should be adjusted in the window all the way up position- trick the door latch into thinking it is closed. With the window in the tricked position the window should not hit the cabrio roof trim, but it should be close, 1mm max (mine is a whisker under the trim which means the door can close with the window all the way up). Look for symmetry between the top of the curve of the glass to the cabrio trim. Note the gab between the door handle end of the window glass edge and the cabrio trim is greater as the door seal flares out more here. I dont know the official spec, but mine and other Boxsters I have spied on seems to be about 5mm. When you put the window in normal mode (not tricked) the window should drop about 13mm measured from the edge of the cabrio roof trim to the top of the glass. Ish. With the window up (doors locked) the window sits in seal by about 4-5mm, looking at the top most part of the window glass. You may need to adjust the 'height' and angle of the glass by adjusting the window clamp (remove rubber grommet under door card) in order to achieve alignment. It is tricky. Lots of tea and thinking time required. I adjusted my windows over a couple of days in different temperatures with the top up and down to fine-tune. All tested now with no wind noise or leaks, but time will tell. Hope it helps!
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