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About ½cwt

  • Rank
    Boxa - Buddy
  • Birthday 03/25/1969

Profile Information

  • Location
    Kettering, Northants

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  • My Ride
    2000 Boxster S 3.2 in Arctic Silver & SEAT Leon ST 1.5 TFSI DSG

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  1. Good luck with the installation @topradio 👍
  2. The iCarsoft POR v1.0 and V2.0 will NOT do a handover or 'wake up' modules. As someone mentioned it above, the service reset does just that but asked whether miles or KM which I guess just takes out rounding errors between the metric and imperial unit of measure systems. I've just done one for the first time for some one on a 987.
  3. @Araf, @Menoporsche should this be put in How To???
  4. 👍👍 Book marked! Welcome, good entrance! Add your location to your profile it will help other offer relevant help.
  5. I have the v1 of this as after correspondence with the company I didn't feel the need to pay the extra for tools that are not required on earlier cars like electric hand brake back off. It is a passive device that can rest and is therefore very helpful for a DIY mechanic, it CANNOT do programming/coding like cruise control or a handover. For more in depth work you with need a higher level tools such as Durametric, PWIS etc. I have used it to rest ABS after changing a sensor and reset engine fault codes after a MAF sensor failure and change. If you have 986/996 or 987/987 then v1 at
  6. Depends on the suspension fitted to the car, standard or sports Look for code 029 (standard) or 030 on the label inside the bonnet that has a whole block of 3 digit codes on it as well as the paint code and a lot of other details on the spec of the car as it left the factory. More info at this link: https://www.stuttcars.com/technical/option-codes/
  7. A little more info, the 3 bolt sizes in the 'boomerang' bracket have the following torque settings: Front in to side chassis member 16mm hex - 120 Nm (89 lb ft) Centre hex on tuning fork 18mm - 160 Nm (118 lb ft) ARB clamping bolts, 2 rear most bolts, 15mm hex - 75 Nm (56 lb ft)
  8. I was glad to find all 4 front nipples came lose OK, but I used a deep 11mm socket to tighten then loosen off whist being able to control the applied torque better with the ratchet handle and my free hand to prevent twisting in the wrong plane. Haven't broken the lines or got to the rears yet as I found a broken front spring which needed more urgent attention.
  9. Thanks for passing on your experience @MattO89 most helpful.
  10. I'm about to tackle some of my brake lines so some follow up questions: - Your picture indicates you used Plus Gas, your write up says WD40. Have you found one better than the other? - On the bleed nipples, I have seen a write up suggesting using a 6 point deep socket (i.e. 6 flats on the the 6 flats of the nipple) to best release the nipples, did you do this or use a flare spanner or 12 point ring spanner. Would you hazard a guess as to whether any of these might get a better result than you in rounding them off? - Where did you source your stainless replacements from and hav
  11. Only just come across this thread. I replaced my MAF as the old one was shot and the car started misfiring all over the place. I took the opportunity to clean the throttle body which was pretty fifthly so cleaning it all out with Wurth brake cleaner. Fortunately I have a code reader to be able to reset the CEL after the MAF errors. Doing both at the same time made sense so the car could 'learn' its new settings all in one go. After just a clean, the TB could be flowing better but if the MAF is on its way out and the ECU has self adjusted to bad data from the MAF, that might explain why th
  12. Give 3 flashes to the indicator it you dont full latch it in the on position as many newer cars now do. I found myself through having become lazy from having this function in all the other vehicles I drive too often only giving one flash in the Boxster which is a. unclear to others (was it a mistake) or b. missed by others when 3 are not. Teh normal function when you latch the indicator stalk in position to signal is retained. This is not a MUST HAVE upgrade by any stretch but an easy one if you want this functionality and no one in the UK seemed to have written it up.
  13. First step in wiring up is to remove the female connector from the VW kit, just press in the two tabs. Then pull the two cable retaining covers open, these have the pin position numbers on them (they are very clearly marked compared to many connectors so I didn't need my specs!) so you can insert the cables into the connector as flows: from Porsche loom to VW connector Black/white green band 1 Black/green 2 Black/white 3 Brown 6 Blac
  14. First step is to release the instrument pod in the usual method, start by taking the cap off the hazards switch and use the long nose pliers to pull out the relay the cover attaches to. Remove the T20 screw from beside the socket. The take out the microphone cover on the right of the unit and remove the T20 screw. Then pull up on the pod to unclip it from the retaining clips. Turn the unit so you can see the underside of the hazard switch plug and hold back the clip in the left to release the unit. Not the large yellow rectangle on the bottom of the socket, the socket needs to go back
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