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  1. I’ve been searching for a way to connect my iPhone to my 987 CD-R 24 with cd changer. Tried the fm transmitter type things that plugs into the 12v socket in the arm rest. But they’re cr*p, and a waste of money. Was playing with the idea of changing the head unit, but it always seemed a long, expensive way around a problem a modern ish (2006) car shouldn’t have. I found this on amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07BR2ZZCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_H0zzBb942E964 £118 later this arrived comes with bt unit, fibre optic cable, mic, power cable and splicing clips. Removed the rubber seal and plastic covers in the frunk. there's two clips on the bottom of the cd changer housing, the only way I could get them off was by putting my finger under and behind the clip, and pulling forward (towards the front of the car) and then lifting the the top of the clip once the clips are off you can pull the unit forward releasing it from the rear clips. Remove the fibre optic cable which clips directly into the bt unit, use the splice connector to connect to the cd changers power supply. I connected the fibre optic cable supplied to the cd unit to stop dust getting in. cable tide to the top of the housing. Switch the head unit to cdc, connect to the unit via Bluetooth on my phone and bingo worked first time ? really pleased with it, works perfectly. Easy to fit, a flat head, Philips screwdriver and pliers 40min max I might have a look at connecting the mic so I can make calls, but not fussed for now just pleased to have more that 6cds to listen to ? @Simon.
  2. Glovebox Removal - Performed on 2006 987 Boxster (Gen 1 or 987.1)NebulaOdyssey on BoXa.net BoXa profile Tools: 5/32” Allen Key (Hex)Torx T-25Torx T-20Old credit/debit/loyalty type card Steps: First you will need to remove the left side panel of the centre console. Use this guide if you need help with this step http://www.planet-9....removal-29.html Next, remove the cup holder. This has two hex screws visible from underneath when the glovebox is in the open position. I used an Allen Key as there is not much vertical height to fit a tool. Behind the cup holder there are two torx screws. Then down the right hand edge of the glovebox there are three more torx screws. Underneath the glovebox remove the black foam type covering, which has five plastic screw fittings (flat head or use a plastic card). Then while underneath, on the right hand side of the glovebox there is another torx screw. On the left hand side of the glove box, open the car door and pull off the black door seal near the glovebox section. Now remove the plastic insert by placing a card underneath and pulling away from the car, i.e. towards the open door. Once loose it pivots out. Here are the two clips holding it on, It pivots on the other end. Then you will be able to see and remove the two torx screws. One last screw is hiding behind the dash panel to the left of the glovebox. Looking straight on, wrap your fingers underneath the bottom and give it a tug straight out towards the back of the car. Once the bottom is loose give the top a little pull away from the front and it should come off easily. Behind here is the last torx screw to remove. Finally, with the glovebox door open pull the whole thing towards the back of the car, it may drop so support it. Now the glovebox can be lowered while being careful of any wires from the light and OBD II socket as I think these are attached. DONE! Reinstallation: Installation is the reverse of removal. The glovebox does need a little wiggling to locate it back into position. There are a few lugs to locate it all properly. Here is a PDF download, Click Here
  3. 987 Double DIN Installation (upgrade) NebulaOdyssey on BoXa.net BoXa profile Performed on 2006 987 Boxster with Sound Package Plus (SSP) (Gen 1 or 987.1) NB: Will also work for non SPP but not suitable for Bose systems Tools: 3/16” Allen Key (Hex)Torx T-25Torx T-20Wire Strippers (with crimper)Soldering Iron (with some solder)Very small flat blade screwdriverPhillips and Flat Head screwdrivers Equipment: Double DIN radio unit of your choiceAn ISO DIN wiring harness adapter (if your radio unit didn’t come with one, mine did)Double DIN fascia and cage kit, like CT23PO03Fakra aerial adapter, if new unit requires ISO then a PC5-100Wire (for +12V ignition, <6Amp should be fine @ 12V), 2-3 meters (I bought 10m)1 Spade Crimp Connector (a Blue sized one)1 Inline fuse holder (<6Amp rating again should be fine @ 12V)5Amp Time Delay (slow blow), inline type of courseElectrical tapeSteps: First you will need to remove the old terrible CDR24 unit out of the car. I used this very good guide http://www.planet-9....removal-29.html Next you want to get all the wires prepared ready for the car. This step does involve soldering, so take all the precautionary measures required to prevent yourself or others from getting injured and make sure you work in a well ventilated area. With the SPP you will have an ASK amplifier in the front that needs an ignition on signal, as will the new radio unit. If you do not have SPP your new radio will still need an ignition on signal, but you won’t need to move the pin in the ISO harness. The following is performed on the harness adapter not the car’s harness. Remove Pin 4 from the ISO adapter (red wire) by inserting a small flat blade screwdriver and pushing on the tab that holds the pin in place whilst gently pulling on the red wire. Your red wire may have bullet connectors, if so disconnect them as it makes the next steps easier, if not then it doesn’t matter. Measure, by dry fitting, your ignition on wire from your radio bay around the drivers foot well to the fuse box (leave some extra as you can tuck it away). Strip some wire and solder one end to the removed ISO adapter Pin (red wire Pin). Once done use some electrical tape to secure the base of the wires together. On the other end strip and solder one half of the fuse holder (the smaller half). Cut another short length of wire and strip both ends, then solder the other half of the fuse holder to one end (larger half) and crimp the spade connector to the other end. Now you need to put the Pin back into the ISO harness, make sure you put this in to Pin slot 2, which equates to the ASK remote on slot on the car. You can put it back into Pin slot 4 if you have no SPP. If you have the bullet connectors, you can now connect them back up, yellow arrows. The speaker wires are all okay as they are, so no changes required. Check to make sure your new Double DIN radio provides either an aerial out or remote out to Pin slot 5 on the ISO harness, if not move your radio’s aerial power out to Pin slot 5. This is the power on, needed for the car’s powered antenna. Now route the ignition on wire around the driver’s foot well to the fuse box from the back of the centre console radio bay. Next get all the other ancillary wires into place. This includes any media wires for iPod/iPhone, USB and AUX Jack and the GPS unit. I think the best place for the GPS module is under the black plastic at the base of the window wipers. Open your front boot and remove the battery cover. Now push your GPS wire through the rubber grommet just to the left of the battery, it has an X cut in it. You only need to push a few inches few at first. The red arrow shows the grommet and the orange shows where I placed the GPS module. Stick you GPS module into place. Clean the area with alcohol and use a double sided sticky pad. Now climb into the driver’s foot well and take a look up towards the windscreen near the centre of the console where you might expect the grommet to be (front firewall). Grab the wire and have someone else feed more through as your route it down into the foot well (with one person you can push pull push pull etc...). Route the wire under the carpet and up into the back of the centre console to the radio bay. There are two Velcro tabs holding the carpet in place, simply remove and stick back. Whilst here tuck in your ignition cable up to the fuse box. Fit your aerial adapter to the car’s Fakra connector. Route your media/iPod/iPhone cables to the glovebox (or elsewhere, see end). To remove the glovebox in order to install these wires see my How To – Remove 987 Glovebox write up. The last thing is to install the mic. Install this where you like, I chose to have it above the rear view mirror, the wire is routed down the driver’s side pillar. All wires should now be routed. The following picture shows all the existing connectors on the car for information and installation purposes. Tidy up the ignition wire at the fuse box. Remove the fuse box cover and the three screws holding the box in place. The carpet and box should simply pull off (careful near the bottom), you may need to take out your floor mat. Route your ignition wire. Hopefully the small half of your inline fuse holder (from harness) fits through the bottom right slot in the fuse box; push it through from the back. Insert the spade into a vacant fuse slot that would be switched with minimum 5Amp (check your fuse map on the piece of paper on the back of the fuse cover). You can see the one I used. It needs to be the bottom pin of the fuse slot. If the fuse holder doesn’t fit you’ll have to route the spade through the fuse box slot and have the holder behind the carpet. Next, fit the cage that came with the CT23PO03 fascia kit. Test fit your radio to see how well it fits and to check the wiring is all okay. The foam pads with the fascia kit are pretty poor at holding the cage in a vertical position; however put one on the top and one on the bottom of the cage, although it should be very tight horizontally. Use a sturdy flat blade screwdriver to push out some of the side prongs of the cage to stop it being pulled out and use two at the top and bottom to act as ‘feet’ to hold the cage vertically in place. Make sure these will not foul the clips on the fascia plate. Test fit the fascia with the radio to make sure it’s all centrally aligned and pad up the bottom of the cage a little to centre the radio in relation to the fascia. This took one or two attempts. I also found that by giving the cage ‘feet’ it and made it more solid and also held the fascia in place better. Make sure everything is working as it should, then re-install the side panels to the centre console as well as the back panel pieces. DONE Result: Other Resources: CDR24 pinout as guidance on the 987’s harness, http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/88-ELEC-Radio_Install/CDR_24_Pinout.pdf. MOST HUR wiring guide for Kenwood Alpine units http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/997/318496-diy-tip-nav-tv-hur-997-wiring-guide-helper.html (Thanks to Tony Daniel) MOST HUR information and install http://www.planet-9.com/987-cayman-boxster-electronics/56234-latest-head-unit-replacement-avic-120bt.html (Thanks to Tony Daniel) Centre console (gear stick handbrake section) removal for alternate routing of media wires http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/diy-submission-forum/696896-9x7-1-center-console-removal-shifter-removal.html (Thanks to Tony Daniel) Here is a PDF download, Click Here.
  4. Used the search but couldn’t find a guide on how to change the engine oil on a 986 Boxster so thought I’d post how I do it. I’ve also made a video of all this and it’s at https://youtu.be/-1crjE8HDCI Porsche recommend changing the oil every 12,000 miles or every two year whichever comes first but I change the oil every 6000 miles to help protect the IMS bearing. As I track my car occasionally I use Fuchs Titan Race Pro 5W40 and I get it from Opie Oils. The process is actually quite simple : · Heat the engine · Drain the oil · Replace the filter · Fill with new oil Here are the tools and parts you’ll need · Breaker bar · Socket set · Drain pan · Rubber gloves · Oil filter housing removal tool · Funnel · Eye protection · Torque wrench · 9 litres of Engine oil · Oil filter and new o-ring · And a new Drain plug washer I’ve listed all the tools I use on my website if anyone’s interested – http://road-and-race.co.uk/tools Oil will drain more efficiently if it’s hot so run the engine for 10 minutes to get it up to temperature. Using ramps or a jack and stands lift the front or rear of the car depending on where the engine is. I’ve done a video for the Boxster if you’d like to know how to do this. https://youtu.be/La6i3TwMB8k Remove the oil filler cap to allow the oil to drain more freely As my Boxster is mid-engined I’ve raised the rear of the car. Place a 10 liter drain pan down to collect the used oil. Put on eye protection then using a ratchet or breaker bar loosen the drain bolt. Put on a rubber glove and remove the drain bolt. Now remove the oil filter housing. You may be able to remove it by hand, if not use the correct sized removal tool for your car. The correct one to buy is listed here: http://road-and-race.co.uk/tools Remove the old filter and fit the new one. Remove the old o-ring, then put some fresh oil on the new one and fit it on the housing. Half fill it with oil then fit it back onto the car. Torque to the correct spec. In this case its 25 newton meters. Your manual will tell you the correct setting for your car. Once all the oil has drained out fit a new washer on the drain plug and screw back in. Torque to the correct spec. In this case it’s 50 newton meters. Now we are going to put new oil in the car. For my Boxster the oil capacity including the oil filter is 8.75 liters so to start I will pour 8 liters into the oil filler. You should only check the oil level on a horizontal surface to lower your car and wait 10 minutes for the oil to drain through the engine. Using the dip stick check the oil level. It should be just before the max line. If it’s not slowly pour more oil in then check the level again in 10 minutes. Repeat until it’s correctly filled. Remember it’s just a damaging to have too much oil in the engine as too little. Go 20 minute for a drive then check the drain plug and filter for any leaks. Write down your current mileage or reset the trip meter on the car so you’ll know when the next oil change is due.
  5. 987 online Workshop Manuals... S (987) F6-3.2L (2005) (987) F6-2.7L (2006) S (987) F6-3.4L (2008) (987) F6-2.9L (2010)
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