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  1. Glovebox Removal - Performed on 2006 987 Boxster (Gen 1 or 987.1)NebulaOdyssey on BoXa.net BoXa profile Tools: 5/32” Allen Key (Hex)Torx T-25Torx T-20Old credit/debit/loyalty type card Steps: First you will need to remove the left side panel of the centre console. Use this guide if you need help with this step http://www.planet-9....removal-29.html Next, remove the cup holder. This has two hex screws visible from underneath when the glovebox is in the open position. I used an Allen Key as there is not much vertical height to fit a tool. Behind the cup holder there are two torx screws. Then down the right hand edge of the glovebox there are three more torx screws. Underneath the glovebox remove the black foam type covering, which has five plastic screw fittings (flat head or use a plastic card). Then while underneath, on the right hand side of the glovebox there is another torx screw. On the left hand side of the glove box, open the car door and pull off the black door seal near the glovebox section. Now remove the plastic insert by placing a card underneath and pulling away from the car, i.e. towards the open door. Once loose it pivots out. Here are the two clips holding it on, It pivots on the other end. Then you will be able to see and remove the two torx screws. One last screw is hiding behind the dash panel to the left of the glovebox. Looking straight on, wrap your fingers underneath the bottom and give it a tug straight out towards the back of the car. Once the bottom is loose give the top a little pull away from the front and it should come off easily. Behind here is the last torx screw to remove. Finally, with the glovebox door open pull the whole thing towards the back of the car, it may drop so support it. Now the glovebox can be lowered while being careful of any wires from the light and OBD II socket as I think these are attached. DONE! Reinstallation: Installation is the reverse of removal. The glovebox does need a little wiggling to locate it back into position. There are a few lugs to locate it all properly. Here is a PDF download, Click Here
  2. Following on from my successful retrofit of cruise control a while back (http://www.BoXa.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=61570&hl=) the next mod I wanted to tackle was the installation of a 996 instrument cluster. I had a few reasons for wanting to do this: - I liked the idea of having the oil pressure gauge. My old MX5 used to have one, my MGB has one and it's nice so see exactly what the oil pressure is at any given time. - I liked the idea of having a voltmeter. Again, my MGB has one and since I had the alternator fail on the Boxster a year or so ago, it's nice to see things are working as they should! - I prefer the look of the 996 dials. They are very similar of course but I prefer the typeface/font used on the 996 dials. - I already have the full leather interior with the nice stiching on various parts of the interior but Porsche seemed to cheap out on the Boxster's instrument cowl with just a thin covering of leather on the top surface while the 996 has a nicely stiched leather covering. Anyway, decision made, I set about researching what parts would be necessary and what work would be required to carry out the job. I found a number of reasonable guides online and one in the Pelican Parts '101 Projects for your Porsche Boxster' book. For example: - Pelican Parts Website: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/90-ELEC-996_Cluster/90-ELEC-996_Cluster.htm - 986forum.com: http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/43017-carrera-gauge-swap.html So the physical installation seemed pretty simple. At a basic level, the 996 instrument cluster installation is pretty much plug and play albeit with the addition of one cable and an updated oil pressure sender unit for the oil pressure gauge. And then there is some coding necessary to finish the job properly, though the cluster does seem to basically function without any extra coding. So, what follows is my experience of installing a 996 instrument cluster in my MY2000 2.7 Boxster. The main steps I had to go through were: - Obtain a suitable 996 instrument cluster - Obtain a suitable 996 instrument cluster cowl to match my interior colour - Install the 996 oil pressure sender unit - Run a single cable from the new oil pressure sender to the instrument cluster - Perform some recoding on the instrument cluser to keep a PST2/PIWIS2 happy - Fit the 996 instrument cluster - Sit back and have a beer! As before, I would like to make clear is that is merely my experience. I am certainly not a qualified expert in this field but I did get a successful outcome after doing research and using a decent amount of logical thought and common sense. If you wish to go ahead and do the same, it is at your own risk! :-) Also, this is quite a lengthy report. Sorry if it seems a bit long winded but I wanted to include as much detail of my experience as possible in the hope that others might find it useful.
  3. A common fault this one but easy to fix just a bit time consuming. Took me 2 hours but did it for just £60. Video guide below:
  4. My latest guide shows you how I changed the coolant on my 986 Boxster. I also flushed it with de-ionised water.
  5. This is my step by step guide on how to replace your standard rubber brake hoses with steel braided ones. Video of all this is here: https://youtu.be/Czvr1_lNZew Summary Spray brake hose nuts Loosen nuts Remove hose Fit new hose Tighten huts Check clearance Repeat on remaining wheels Bleed system Tools and parts needed Open ended spanners Flare spanners Penetrating fluid Vice grips Clamps Stainless steel braided lines 1. First you’ll need to remove a wheel. Here’s both my jacking guide and wheel removal guide if you need it. https://youtu.be/JDksAkO3eO0 https://youtu.be/La6i3TwMB8k 2. This can get quite messy so put down a cloth or drain pan to catch brake fluid drips. 3. You may not need this but generally the brake hose nuts can be stuck quite tight. A generous spray of penetrating fluid will give you a fighting chance. 4. Now loosen the nut holding the top of the brake hose. You must use a flare spanner here otherwise you will round the nut. If it refuses to move try move penetrating fluid and come back in 10 minutes. 5. One trick you can do for more leverage on the nut is to join two spanners together. 6. Be aware the metal brake lines these hoses connect to are quite weak so you must be careful when loosening the nuts that you are actually undoing the nut and not twisting the metal line. 7. Once loose gently tighten back up to avoid brake fluid dripping out. Remember, brake fluid damages paint so wipe off any spillages. 8. For the bottom nut you’ll find the holding bracket is too weak and will bend if you try to loosen the nut. Usually you would use another spanner to hold the brake hose but Porsche hose ends are rectangular. To get round this use vice grips to hold the hose whilst you loosen the nut. 9. Clamp the hose to stop fluid leaking out and then remove the bottom part of the hose. Tuck it out of the way. 10. Now fit the new braided hose to the bottom brake line. Don’t tighten it hard just yet. 11. Now remove the top part of the hose and set it aside. 12. Connect up the top part of the new hose. 13. Now using an open spanner and a flare spanner you can tighten up both the top and bottom nuts. 14. On the front wheels turn the steering wheel slowly from lock to lock and check the new hoses don’t get stretched or snagged. 15. Repeat on the remaining wheels. 16. Now you’ll need to bleed the system. Here’s my guide on how to do this by yourself. https://youtu.be/Y_nw6yqoOkI 17. One disadvantage of the new braided hoses is that they cannot be clamped as they will get damaged so it’s useful to keep original rubber hoses if you need to do maintenance work on the brake calipers in the future. You’ll find all my guides for the 986 Boxster on my website here http://road-and-race.co.uk
  6. Brake pad change Was checking my brake pads the other day so thought I’d make a video how to guide for changing your pads yourself. You may think that working on brakes yourself is too dangerous in case you get it wrong and have a crash. Well, obviously don't attempt anything you're not confident on but here's a video that shows you how how simple it is and could save you a few hundred pounds at the dealers. Let me know your thoughts! https://youtu.be/fyNn_C63eMc I’ve a 2001 986 Boxster S but this guide should be the same for the 987,996 & 997 as they all share a lot of parts. (if you want to know how to check your pads and discs I’ve also done a video here: https://youtu.be/PQDYOK2qNFc) I track my car so I‘ve fitted the EBC Bluestuff pads. Street legal in the UK for most cars (check with your insurer first), bite well from cold and can last a good 15 mins or so of heavy braking on a track day without fade. I’ve had them up to 400 C on a few sessions and they’ve been ok. EBC do a track only Orangestuff pad if you don’t use your car on the road although I’ve not tried it. It’s a relatively simple process: · Remove the wear sensor · Pull out the pin · Push out the bolt · Pull out the pads · Insert new pads · Replace the bolt, retainer, pin and sensor · And, finally, bed in the pads Here are the tools you’ll need: · Screwdrivers · Pliers · Rubber Mallet · And copper grease · G-clamp to push pistons in (optional) 1. First you will need to lift the car and remove the wheels. (I’ve a video on this if you need to know the lifting points https://youtu.be/La6i3TwMB8k ) 2. Using pliers remove the brake wear sensor. 3. Then remove the pin. 4. Using a rubber mallet and screwdriver tap the bolt out 5. This is the retaining clip the bolt was holding in place 6. Using the screwdriver level the pads out. 7. Now is the perfect time to inspect the piston boots. Check for any cracks or gaps in these pieces of rubber because if any dirt or grit gets behind them it can cause the seals to fail and all your brake fluid to leak out. 8. Put some copper grease on the back of the new pads to help avoid any squeaks 9. Insert the new pads. If a piston is in the way use a g-clamp to push them back in. If you don’t have one you may have some luck by re-inserting the old pad and pushing on that to move the piston in. 10. Replace the bolt and retainer 11. Insert the pin 12. And attach the brake wear sensor To have the pads work at their best each manufacturer will have a bedding in process for you to follow. Instructions will be found in the box his or on their website. In general though here are some guidelines: For the first 300 miles or so try to use the brakes lightly and avoid any sudden, hard braking unless it’s unsafe not to. You should now see a blue band on the disc where the pad material has stuck to it. You will now need to do 10 sudden stops from 60 to 10 miles an hour in an attempt to get the brakes hot. Continue driving after this to allow the brakes to cool and only stop and put the handbrake on when the discs are cool or you risk fusing the handbrake on.
  7. Used the search but couldn’t find a guide on how to change the engine oil on a 986 Boxster so thought I’d post how I do it. I’ve also made a video of all this and it’s at https://youtu.be/-1crjE8HDCI Porsche recommend changing the oil every 12,000 miles or every two year whichever comes first but I change the oil every 6000 miles to help protect the IMS bearing. As I track my car occasionally I use Fuchs Titan Race Pro 5W40 and I get it from Opie Oils. The process is actually quite simple : · Heat the engine · Drain the oil · Replace the filter · Fill with new oil Here are the tools and parts you’ll need · Breaker bar · Socket set · Drain pan · Rubber gloves · Oil filter housing removal tool · Funnel · Eye protection · Torque wrench · 9 litres of Engine oil · Oil filter and new o-ring · And a new Drain plug washer I’ve listed all the tools I use on my website if anyone’s interested – http://road-and-race.co.uk/tools Oil will drain more efficiently if it’s hot so run the engine for 10 minutes to get it up to temperature. Using ramps or a jack and stands lift the front or rear of the car depending on where the engine is. I’ve done a video for the Boxster if you’d like to know how to do this. https://youtu.be/La6i3TwMB8k Remove the oil filler cap to allow the oil to drain more freely As my Boxster is mid-engined I’ve raised the rear of the car. Place a 10 liter drain pan down to collect the used oil. Put on eye protection then using a ratchet or breaker bar loosen the drain bolt. Put on a rubber glove and remove the drain bolt. Now remove the oil filter housing. You may be able to remove it by hand, if not use the correct sized removal tool for your car. The correct one to buy is listed here: http://road-and-race.co.uk/tools Remove the old filter and fit the new one. Remove the old o-ring, then put some fresh oil on the new one and fit it on the housing. Half fill it with oil then fit it back onto the car. Torque to the correct spec. In this case its 25 newton meters. Your manual will tell you the correct setting for your car. Once all the oil has drained out fit a new washer on the drain plug and screw back in. Torque to the correct spec. In this case it’s 50 newton meters. Now we are going to put new oil in the car. For my Boxster the oil capacity including the oil filter is 8.75 liters so to start I will pour 8 liters into the oil filler. You should only check the oil level on a horizontal surface to lower your car and wait 10 minutes for the oil to drain through the engine. Using the dip stick check the oil level. It should be just before the max line. If it’s not slowly pour more oil in then check the level again in 10 minutes. Repeat until it’s correctly filled. Remember it’s just a damaging to have too much oil in the engine as too little. Go 20 minute for a drive then check the drain plug and filter for any leaks. Write down your current mileage or reset the trip meter on the car so you’ll know when the next oil change is due.
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