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Found 8 results

  1. Keep the car running smoothly and potentially get back some lost performance by cleaning the Throttle Body and Mass Air Flow sensor The throttle body controls air flow into the engine and will open and close when you press or release the accelerator pedal. The MAF or Mass Air Flow sensor is a device that measures the density of the air coming into the engine from the air intake. This data is used by the car’s computer to help correctly control engine fuelling. Over time these will get dirty so if you think your car is running a bit sluggish or worse stalling or in limp mode then cleaning them may cure this problem. Car used Porsche Boxster S 2001 986 My step by step guide here:
  2. A common fault this one but easy to fix just a bit time consuming. Took me 2 hours but did it for just £60. Video guide below:
  3. My latest guide shows you how I changed the coolant on my 986 Boxster. I also flushed it with de-ionised water.
  4. The anti roll bar or sway bar bush, as it is also called, is simply a piece of rubber that holds the bar in place. Over time this will wear our so if you hear a knocking from the front or rear of the car it could be that the bushes need replacing. My step by step video guide is here:
  5. This is my step by step guide on how to replace your standard rubber brake hoses with steel braided ones. Video of all this is here: https://youtu.be/Czvr1_lNZew Summary Spray brake hose nuts Loosen nuts Remove hose Fit new hose Tighten huts Check clearance Repeat on remaining wheels Bleed system Tools and parts needed Open ended spanners Flare spanners Penetrating fluid Vice grips Clamps Stainless steel braided lines 1. First you’ll need to remove a wheel. Here’s both my jacking guide and wheel removal guide if you need it. https://youtu.be/JDksAkO3eO0 https://youtu.be/La6i3TwMB8k 2. This can get quite messy so put down a cloth or drain pan to catch brake fluid drips. 3. You may not need this but generally the brake hose nuts can be stuck quite tight. A generous spray of penetrating fluid will give you a fighting chance. 4. Now loosen the nut holding the top of the brake hose. You must use a flare spanner here otherwise you will round the nut. If it refuses to move try move penetrating fluid and come back in 10 minutes. 5. One trick you can do for more leverage on the nut is to join two spanners together. 6. Be aware the metal brake lines these hoses connect to are quite weak so you must be careful when loosening the nuts that you are actually undoing the nut and not twisting the metal line. 7. Once loose gently tighten back up to avoid brake fluid dripping out. Remember, brake fluid damages paint so wipe off any spillages. 8. For the bottom nut you’ll find the holding bracket is too weak and will bend if you try to loosen the nut. Usually you would use another spanner to hold the brake hose but Porsche hose ends are rectangular. To get round this use vice grips to hold the hose whilst you loosen the nut. 9. Clamp the hose to stop fluid leaking out and then remove the bottom part of the hose. Tuck it out of the way. 10. Now fit the new braided hose to the bottom brake line. Don’t tighten it hard just yet. 11. Now remove the top part of the hose and set it aside. 12. Connect up the top part of the new hose. 13. Now using an open spanner and a flare spanner you can tighten up both the top and bottom nuts. 14. On the front wheels turn the steering wheel slowly from lock to lock and check the new hoses don’t get stretched or snagged. 15. Repeat on the remaining wheels. 16. Now you’ll need to bleed the system. Here’s my guide on how to do this by yourself. https://youtu.be/Y_nw6yqoOkI 17. One disadvantage of the new braided hoses is that they cannot be clamped as they will get damaged so it’s useful to keep original rubber hoses if you need to do maintenance work on the brake calipers in the future. You’ll find all my guides for the 986 Boxster on my website here http://road-and-race.co.uk
  6. Spent the weekend rebuilding the braking system and swapped out the master cylinder and booster. Step by step video is here: https://youtu.be/LsVANgHiR84 Here’s a summary of what we’ll be doing Remove plastic bits Move horn Remove reservoir Disconnect brake lines Remove master cylinder Disconnect brake pedal linkage Remove brake booster Fit new booster and master cylinder Bleed the brakes and clutch Tools and parts needed · Knife · Scissors · Socket set · Snips · Pliers · Screwdrivers · Turkey baster · Plastic Cup · Plastic bags · Flare spanner (13mm) · Breaker bar · New Brake master cylinder · And a new Brake booster Lift the bonnet and remove the plastic covering the brake fluid reservoir, master cylinder and booster. It’s held on with one bolt and one screw. Then unscrew and remove this plastic piece and unclip the battery cover. We need to move the horn out of the way so remove the lower nut holding it in place and move it to one side. This is the black tubing that covers the brake pedal linkage. We’ll need to remove this so cut the tubing down the middle with a knife, remove the ties holding it in place at each end and pull it out. Put down a towel then remove the brake fluid reservoir cap and filter. Using a turkey baster suck out all the fluid into a cup. . Unclip the brake fluid sensor then pull up on the reservoir to remove it. A plastic bag can be used to catch any drips of fluid. My car is an automatic but if you have a manual car then there will be a clutch line connected to the reservoir you’ll need to remove too. We can now start disconnecting the two brake lines that connect to the master cylinder. Using a 13mm flare spanner loosen the nut on the first line, remove from the cylinder and pop a plastic bag over to catch any drips. The nut on the other line just needs loosening. The master cylinder is held on with two 22 mil nuts - One at the top right and one bottom left. A breaker bar can make your life easier removing these. The master cylinder will now simply pull straight out. Now we start removing the brake booster. Pull the vacuum hose out then unscrew and remove the two very long bolts holding it in. They are torx 45. You will now need to remove the booster from the brake pedal linkage. The pedal linkage nut is here as is 17 mil. The locking nut is here and is 19 mil Using both a 17 and 19 mil spanner place them on the two nuts as shown and break them loose. Now it’s important not to move the position of the locking nut. Why? Well, I’ll explain. The locking nut determines how far the booster screws into the pedal linkage and thus affects the brake pedal height. If the pedal height is altered too much then the pedal won’t touch the brake light switch and the switch isn’t pressed then your brake lights will permanently stay on. Holding the nut with the 17 mil spanner unscrew the booster. To remove the booster you’ll need to move the amplifier out of the way – unscrew the other bolt holding it in then remove the two screws holding this trim piece in. Avid views may already know I removed the factory cd player to save weight a while ago so if you still have yours this will need unscrewing too. Next move the upper brake line behind the booster then gently lift the booster out. Peel the old gasket off. So here’s the new booster. It comes with a cap on it we don’t need so using two spanners break it loose and unscrew it. The new booster comes with a new black tubing. Remove it and make a cut along it. . Now, remember I said not to move the position of the locking nut on the original booster? We’ll now you need to line up both the original and new booster and rotate the locking nut on the new booster so that it’s in the same position as the original. Fitting the new booster is the reverse of the removal process.. Simply fit it back onto the car, connect up the pedal linkage to the booster and lock it tight with the locking nut using two spanners. Re-fit the black tubing and secure it with two cable ties. Here is the brake booster. Inside it you can see a rod. When fitting the new master cylinder make sure you insert it so that the rod fits inside it. From this point on re-fitting everything is simply the reverse of the removal process. Once all back together the brakes and clutch will need bleeding. As the master cylinder is new it will be full of air. Some people bench bleed the cylinder before fitting but I didn’t need to. Click the screen now to see my guide on how to bleed your brakes. To get all the air out of the master cylinder follow my guide but increase the number of times you press and release the brake pedal. In the guide I do this once per bleed valve but I would suggest increasing this to 8 times per valve to make sure all trapped air is released. Go for a test drive and if the pedal is spongy you’ve not got all the air out and will have to bleed again.
  7. Evenin' all, For all those of you considering getting started working on your car I’ve put together a short and simple video. I did it primarily to show the cost savings doing it yourself but even if you never attempt anything the video should help to de-mystify what the basic service items are. https://youtu.be/SbNwS1qXj1Q By all means not a comprehensive list and there will probably be another video for what I’ve left out here. So, what is a car service? Well, some describe it as simply changing the engine oil. I will take you through the six major service items, tell you when on average they need doing and give you a cost comparison. I am excluding the cost of buying the tools to make simpler. Please check out this other episode for the essential tools you’ll need to buy to start working on your car. Service intervals vary from car to car so I’m going to give general figures for an average family car. You should consult your handbook or buy a manual for the correct intervals for your car. 1. The Engine oil This is the big one. Not changing you oil and the filter will lead to engine damage. Change every 12, 000 miles or one year whichever comes first. Expect to pay about £180 pounds for a dealer to do this or £30 in parts if you do it yourself. Here is my step by step guide. 2. The brakes Brake fluid will stops being as effective after about 2 years. A dealer will charge about £60 to change this but you can do yourself for £5 in parts. A dealer will also charge over £70 just to check your brakes and up to £350 to change the brake pads. Click here to check you brakes for free and here to save nearly £300 changing the pads yourself. 3. Tyres When you change your tyres depends on how many miles you drive and how you drive. Click here to see my guide on how to check your tyres and see if they need replacing. 4. Air filters The air filter removes dirt and particles from the outside air as it flows into the engine. It will eventually become blocked so replace it every 24,000 miles or 2 years whichever comes first. There is also a cabin filter that helps clean the air coming into the car though the heater and air con. Replace this 12,000 miles or every year. A dealer will charge up to £80 to replace them whilst they cost about £10 each and are simple to fit. 5. Battery A car Battery lasts about 5 years as after that it stops being able to hold a reliable charge and may not be able to start the engine. A battery will cost about £40 whilst a dealer will charge up to double to supply and fit. 6. Screen wash Not much to say on this one except make sure you buy a screen wash with anti-freeze to that it works in the winter and a detergent so that it can remove grease and dirt effectively. Most come concentrated so you can dilute it with tap water at home. You can buy 5 litres for £1.20 or have the dealer charge you £20. As always all my videos can be found at http://road-and-race.co.uk
  8. Used the search but couldn’t find a guide on how to change the engine oil on a 986 Boxster so thought I’d post how I do it. I’ve also made a video of all this and it’s at https://youtu.be/-1crjE8HDCI Porsche recommend changing the oil every 12,000 miles or every two year whichever comes first but I change the oil every 6000 miles to help protect the IMS bearing. As I track my car occasionally I use Fuchs Titan Race Pro 5W40 and I get it from Opie Oils. The process is actually quite simple : · Heat the engine · Drain the oil · Replace the filter · Fill with new oil Here are the tools and parts you’ll need · Breaker bar · Socket set · Drain pan · Rubber gloves · Oil filter housing removal tool · Funnel · Eye protection · Torque wrench · 9 litres of Engine oil · Oil filter and new o-ring · And a new Drain plug washer I’ve listed all the tools I use on my website if anyone’s interested – http://road-and-race.co.uk/tools Oil will drain more efficiently if it’s hot so run the engine for 10 minutes to get it up to temperature. Using ramps or a jack and stands lift the front or rear of the car depending on where the engine is. I’ve done a video for the Boxster if you’d like to know how to do this. https://youtu.be/La6i3TwMB8k Remove the oil filler cap to allow the oil to drain more freely As my Boxster is mid-engined I’ve raised the rear of the car. Place a 10 liter drain pan down to collect the used oil. Put on eye protection then using a ratchet or breaker bar loosen the drain bolt. Put on a rubber glove and remove the drain bolt. Now remove the oil filter housing. You may be able to remove it by hand, if not use the correct sized removal tool for your car. The correct one to buy is listed here: http://road-and-race.co.uk/tools Remove the old filter and fit the new one. Remove the old o-ring, then put some fresh oil on the new one and fit it on the housing. Half fill it with oil then fit it back onto the car. Torque to the correct spec. In this case its 25 newton meters. Your manual will tell you the correct setting for your car. Once all the oil has drained out fit a new washer on the drain plug and screw back in. Torque to the correct spec. In this case it’s 50 newton meters. Now we are going to put new oil in the car. For my Boxster the oil capacity including the oil filter is 8.75 liters so to start I will pour 8 liters into the oil filler. You should only check the oil level on a horizontal surface to lower your car and wait 10 minutes for the oil to drain through the engine. Using the dip stick check the oil level. It should be just before the max line. If it’s not slowly pour more oil in then check the level again in 10 minutes. Repeat until it’s correctly filled. Remember it’s just a damaging to have too much oil in the engine as too little. Go 20 minute for a drive then check the drain plug and filter for any leaks. Write down your current mileage or reset the trip meter on the car so you’ll know when the next oil change is due.
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