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  1. Brake pad change Was checking my brake pads the other day so thought I’d make a video how to guide for changing your pads yourself. You may think that working on brakes yourself is too dangerous in case you get it wrong and have a crash. Well, obviously don't attempt anything you're not confident on but here's a video that shows you how how simple it is and could save you a few hundred pounds at the dealers. Let me know your thoughts! https://youtu.be/fyNn_C63eMc I’ve a 2001 986 Boxster S but this guide should be the same for the 987,996 & 997 as they all share a lot of parts. (if you want to know how to check your pads and discs I’ve also done a video here: https://youtu.be/PQDYOK2qNFc) I track my car so I‘ve fitted the EBC Bluestuff pads. Street legal in the UK for most cars (check with your insurer first), bite well from cold and can last a good 15 mins or so of heavy braking on a track day without fade. I’ve had them up to 400 C on a few sessions and they’ve been ok. EBC do a track only Orangestuff pad if you don’t use your car on the road although I’ve not tried it. It’s a relatively simple process: · Remove the wear sensor · Pull out the pin · Push out the bolt · Pull out the pads · Insert new pads · Replace the bolt, retainer, pin and sensor · And, finally, bed in the pads Here are the tools you’ll need: · Screwdrivers · Pliers · Rubber Mallet · And copper grease · G-clamp to push pistons in (optional) 1. First you will need to lift the car and remove the wheels. (I’ve a video on this if you need to know the lifting points https://youtu.be/La6i3TwMB8k ) 2. Using pliers remove the brake wear sensor. 3. Then remove the pin. 4. Using a rubber mallet and screwdriver tap the bolt out 5. This is the retaining clip the bolt was holding in place 6. Using the screwdriver level the pads out. 7. Now is the perfect time to inspect the piston boots. Check for any cracks or gaps in these pieces of rubber because if any dirt or grit gets behind them it can cause the seals to fail and all your brake fluid to leak out. 8. Put some copper grease on the back of the new pads to help avoid any squeaks 9. Insert the new pads. If a piston is in the way use a g-clamp to push them back in. If you don’t have one you may have some luck by re-inserting the old pad and pushing on that to move the piston in. 10. Replace the bolt and retainer 11. Insert the pin 12. And attach the brake wear sensor To have the pads work at their best each manufacturer will have a bedding in process for you to follow. Instructions will be found in the box his or on their website. In general though here are some guidelines: For the first 300 miles or so try to use the brakes lightly and avoid any sudden, hard braking unless it’s unsafe not to. You should now see a blue band on the disc where the pad material has stuck to it. You will now need to do 10 sudden stops from 60 to 10 miles an hour in an attempt to get the brakes hot. Continue driving after this to allow the brakes to cool and only stop and put the handbrake on when the discs are cool or you risk fusing the handbrake on.
  2. Okay, as mentioned in other thread I'll build a howto for novices like myself. Post your contributions below and I'll update his post along the way, I expect to execute the work over Christmas/New Year Kit needed: Jack 2 Tonne Axle stands Screwdriver Wheel wrench Draining Material needed: Pads Disks Brake fluid (type?) Isopropyl alcohol (recommended by Pelican parts) --- Bugger, out of time, will update tomorrow.
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