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Monsterlime

Battery And Alternator. Which alternator?

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I went out this morning (car started fine) intending a pretty long drive, stopped of for petrol about an hour in in Perth, car wouldn't re-start.  Just clicked so was pretty sure it was the battery, AA turned up and jumped the car first time, no issue.  Headed home (not taking any chances), on the way home the ABS and Battery lights came on on the dash, and the car was quite hesitant and felt down on power.  Googling has indicated that it is probably the alternator, which is what I suspected at the time.

I've ordered a replacement battery just in case, but was wondering which alternator would be the best out of these 2 - 

https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Porsche_Boxster_3.2_2000/p/car-parts/electrical/car-electrics-and-car-lighting/alternator/?401330162&1&2620d75a2ed06d838158979620256e038cde9109&000012

https://www.porscheshop.co.uk/porsche-mechanical-parts/porsche-boxster-986-mechanical-parts-1997-to-2004/porsche-boxster-986-starters-alternators-1997-to-2004/alternator-996-997-boxster-with-slip-pulley.html

Eurocarparts, with discount code is £55 less, so if it will do the job fine, I don't really see the need to pay more!  Seems like a relatively simple job as well, even on the Boxster.

Thanks!

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AA would have ...

Checked for 14V approx once car was restarted

Used induction ampere meter to measure current drain

and advised if the alternator wasn't charding the battery.

My guess is your battery is not holding charge and needs replacing,which is what your about to do anyway.

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See how it goes with the new battery first.

No idea if RTX are any good. Porsche Shop could do with adding more details on their alternator, like who it's made by for a start.

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Alternators can be rebuilt and often it is a voltage regulator that is at fault. Nothing special about the Porsche part that you have to go to a P-car specialist. Any auto-electrical shop can do.

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Indeed. I asked at my local auto electrics shop last year. From memory they said about £50 if I removed the alternator myself. I think they said it was probably a Bosch so they would have all the necessary spares.

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I fitted an RTX one about 3 months ago as my alternator bearings were shot, it's been fine.  When I can be bothered, am going to replace the bearings on the old one and keep it as a spare.

Was easy to replace, the leads on the back of the alternator were a little fiddly but that's it.

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I fitted the new battery tonight, the car fired straight up but the 2 warning lights (ABS and Battery) were still lit.  Do I need to clear the error codes, let it run for a while, give it a drive or is it likely the alternator?

For now, I've left the car plugged in to my trickle charger and will check it and the terminals tomorrow (I actually totally forgot to check the voltage across the terminals).

Thanks!

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Sounds like alternator to me. just check you are getting over 14.v at tickover. If its less then alternator is gone.

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12 hours ago, Monsterlime said:

I fitted the new battery tonight, the car fired straight up but the 2 warning lights (ABS and Battery) were still lit.  Do I need to clear the error codes, let it run for a while, give it a drive or is it likely the alternator?

For now, I've left the car plugged in to my trickle charger and will check it and the terminals tomorrow (I actually totally forgot to check the voltage across the terminals).

Thanks!

Take it for a short drive the lights should clear after a short while. 

 

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The battery light should clear straight away, so I suspect the alternator is iffy. Trying revving the engine to see if that turns off the battery light too. The ABS light may need a restart to clear or a diag tool to clear them depending on the fault flagged.

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The alternator itself is seldom to  blame - it's usually the voltage regulator, which is less than £30 for a genuine Bosch item. Takes a few minutes to replace if the alternator is on a bench.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BOSCH-EL-FIELD-REGULATOR-F00M144136/232282559745?epid=1537666502&hash=item36151e9501%3Ag%3AuWcAAOSwax5Yx94C&_sacat=0&_nkw=F00M144136&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313

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When mine went, westlancsautoelectrics.co.uk were recommended on here, speedy service and an 18 month guarantee, cost me for £140

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Well, we have our answer!  Tested voltage on the old battery - 11.40(ish), new battery - 12.30(ish).  New battery with car running - 12.30.

Since the voltage regulator is much cheaper, and I need to take the alternator off anyway, I may as well give that a try first.  Thank you for the link!

I assume it is worth changing the belt at the same time?

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On 8/11/2018 at 3:55 PM, Monsterlime said:

Well, we have our answer!  Tested voltage on the old battery - 11.40(ish), new battery - 12.30(ish).  New battery with car running - 12.30.

Since the voltage regulator is much cheaper, and I need to take the alternator off anyway, I may as well give that a try first.  Thank you for the link!

I assume it is worth changing the belt at the same time?

You could do but it was only changed about 18 months ago. 

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Thanks!  That is helpful to know!

Anyone got any tips on how to loosen the idler pulley bolt?  I mean, just get it to start loosening.  It will not move at all.  I even put a spanner on it and banged it with a hammer, nothing.  For now, I have left it over night with some WD40 on it to see if it loosen just a bit (I'm not even at the tapping it stage to release the nut etc).

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3 hours ago, Monsterlime said:

Thanks!  That is helpful to know!

Anyone got any tips on how to loosen the idler pulley bolt?  I mean, just get it to start loosening.  It will not move at all.  I even put a spanner on it and banged it with a hammer, nothing.  For now, I have left it over night with some WD40 on it to see if it loosen just a bit (I'm not even at the tapping it stage to release the nut etc).

Impact driver? Is there any chance it tightens the wrong way? 

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This one -

 J3tAIBw.jpg

 

I have already removed the belt.

I'll give the impact driver a try, but I was trying to be careful since this one is only supposed to turn a couple of turns before needing to be tapped.

Edited by Monsterlime

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53 minutes ago, Monsterlime said:

This one -

 J3tAIBw.jpg

 

I have already removed the belt.

I'll give the impact driver a try, but I was trying to be careful since this one is only supposed to turn a couple of turns before needing to be tapped.

If that's the tensioner pulley it's spring loaded so you don't need to remove it just stick a 24mms spanner on it & swing it up until you can get belt off. I have had to replace my tensioner after it seized.

 

HTH

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The tensioner pulley is behind the firewall where the cables run through, you can just see it peeking out in the middle of the picture.

That bolt on the circled idler is an odd one. It bolts into the alternator case and clamps it onto the mounting point on the engine. You're meant to be able to loosen it and then give it a good hammering to open up the bracket slightly so the alternator can come off.

See figure 3 and 4 on here

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/82-ELEC-Alternator/82-ELEC-Alternator.htm

Seems odd that it's seized up though. I think mine came out OK.

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Yeah, I got the tensioner one done fine and thats how I got the belt off.

That was why I was being cautious and not just hitting it with MOAR POWAR since everything else I'd read said it should be relatively easy to loosen.  I should be able to try (carefully) the impact driver just to loosen it a bit, this afternoon.

Edited by Monsterlime

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5 minutes ago, Monsterlime said:

Yeah, I got the tensioner one done fine and thats how I got the belt off.

That was why I was being cautious and not just hitting it with MOAR POWAR since everything else I'd read said it should be relatively easy to loosen.  I should be able to try (carefully) the impact driver just to loosen it a bit, this afternoon.

The other approach is to use a big power bar to steadily increase the force until it gives rather than yanking it. If the shock treatment of the impact driver has no effect, this should work. Have you been able to reach the nut at the other end of the bolt to apply WD40?

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Well, good news and bad news!

I have managed to loosen off the bolt and get the alternator out, WD40 overnight did the trick.  The anti clockwise thing is a LIE.  You twist the alternator clockwise when looking at it, so the right side moves down and then it magically comes out.  I only really grasped this after an hour or so of trying to get the damned thing out the other way and failing.  Watched a video of someone doing it..light bulb, literally 30 seconds later the alternator was out.

That was the good news.  Bad news is I either need to get two screw ends drilled out or buy a new alternator.  Two of the screws holding in the voltage regulator to the back of the alternator sheared off as they would not budge, so the trusty impact driver to the rescue..bugger.

So..how easy is it to drill out two screw ends?  Of course then I need the right screws as well when I manage that..lol .

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