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red rocket

Stone chip repairs.....aaaargh!!!

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Tried filling some chips a while back using touch up paint and clear coat. Great match but left an unsatisfactory halo effect after clear coat and i ended up going through to what looked like original Grey primer when rubbing back prior to polishing. In an effort to rectify i bought spray paint and clear coat from same source and spent ages last week re-finishing. This involved sanding back, waxing surrounding area to prevent overspray sticking, spraying 2 coats of paint and 2 clear coat through a hole torn in paper in an effort to avoid any lines from masking. Initially this looked very promising BUT, having waited a few days for clear coat to harden,  today tried sanding back the edges with various grades of wet and dry and rubbing compound to blend in the repairs then polishing with DA leading to a finish which is equally as bad as before. Whatever i do seems to result in a sort of very obvious halo and any effort to remove this effect leads eventually to exposure of the base Grey primer. I reckon a light coat of paint would cover it but can't do that without additional clear coat and more rubbing back which is a vicious circle.

I'm out of ideas; anyone else got any beyond a total respray??

vL9WdO6.jpg

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Here's one after sanding but before DA

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And again after DA

YCGWpMO.jpg

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Looks like you've removed (sanded) too much laquer and base colour around the area.

Further sanding and polishing will exacerbate the problem.

A respray maybe the best option now.

Sorry to bare the bad news.

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I sanded VERY carefully which just adds to the disappointment. Not ready to give up yet and nothing to lose anyway!

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Hi, having done a bit of paintwork before, I'd guess that your problem now is the clearcoat. You can't spot repair clear coat without it leaving an edge. Smart repairs usually either reclear the whole panel or blend out the clear with blending thinners. Can you get the 1 stage touch up anywhere (clear and base together)? It won't be perfect but easier than a respray

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22 minutes ago, Lennym1984 said:

Hi, having done a bit of paintwork before, I'd guess that your problem now is the clearcoat. You can't spot repair clear coat without it leaving an edge. Smart repairs usually either reclear the whole panel or blend out the clear with blending thinners. Can you get the 1 stage touch up anywhere (clear and base together)? It won't be perfect but easier than a respray

Not sure i completely understand.  Did some work today ro try to refinish one spot. Initially tried mixing base and clear together but that gives a very opaque finish without sufficient depth of colour or hence cover.  So, have done 2 coats each base and clear with touch up rather than spray, gently sanding each coat before the next one. Have now left the final coat to cure overnight before sanding tomorrow. Looks promising so far but ultimately will depend how it turns out after polishing.

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This is the stuff I use

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F270604353489

I'm actually really impressed with it. The color match is perfect and it polishes nicely. 

I'm going to try repairing a scratch on my door jamb (in really p*ssed about this one) with it in an airbrush. I'll let you know how I get on. 

 

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1 hour ago, Lennym1984 said:

This is the stuff I use

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F270604353489

I'm actually really impressed with it. The color match is perfect and it polishes nicely. 

I'm going to try repairing a scratch on my door jamb (in really p*ssed about this one) with it in an airbrush. I'll let you know how I get on. 

 

OK great, thanks alot.  Am in process of refinishing the other two spots beofre rubbing down the first one so i'll see how they turn out and if unsuccessful i'll see if i can get the right all in one colour from your source.

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On 9/19/2018 at 4:38 PM, red rocket said:

OK great, thanks alot.  Am in process of refinishing the other two spots beofre rubbing down the first one so i'll see how they turn out and if unsuccessful i'll see if i can get the right all in one colour from your source.

How did you get on? I did my scratch on the weekend and the repair is totally invisible. I ended up using two stage paint (although I used the 1 stage elsewhere and the outcome was just as good) and blending spray. 

Here's what I did... 

Carefully roughed up an area about 3" radius from the scratch using 1000 grit. 

In an area about 2" radius from the scratch, I roughed up with 800

Directly over the scratch (where my basecoat was going to be shot) I keyed the surface with 600.

I then marked the different areas on the tape I had applied to the edge I wanted to mask off. 

Once I had cleaned the area, I used an airbrush (it's a great tool for things like this) to apply a couple of coats of colour over the 600 grit area. The edges on either side were feathered. 

Once this had flashed off (10 minutes or so), I laid the first coat of clear over the 600. Then a second overlapping the 800, and then a final coat coming almost to the edge of the 1000. Before the final coat dried I sprayed some blending solvent over the edge and on to the last piece of exposed 1000 grit. 

The finish was pretty good from the offset but today I have it a quick once over with 2500 grit and then polished it. 

Hey presto, an invisible repair. 

Now blending clear is never the perfect solution (in exposed areas it will eventually show - maybe 5 years or so) but it's better than forking out for a respray

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^^^ any pics?

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48 minutes ago, M12MTR said:

^^^ any pics?

I don't have any step by step pictures but I do have a "finished" one that I can upload tomorrow. 

If people are really interested, I can do a proper guide using an old fuel filler flap I have in the shed

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47 minutes ago, Lennym1984 said:

I don't have any step by step pictures but I do have a "finished" one that I can upload tomorrow. 

If people are really interested, I can do a proper guide using an old fuel filler flap I have in the shed

That would be very useful. Last repair didn't work. Now awaiting delivery of 1 stage paint as you recommended.  Tips on sourcing airbrush might be useful and what's blending solvent? Thanks for continued help!

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I bought my current airbrush from amazon but beware there is a lot of cr*p on there (as in unusable and falls to pieces). 

This is the one I bought and so far it is excellent.

Gocheer High Precision Dual... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B071JBRHFH?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

You will need a compressor. I have a 50l 9.6cfm one but you can use a much smaller/cheaper one for an airbrush. 

You will also need to thin the paint until it is the consistency of milk (proper nail varnish remover will work but thinners is probably better).

Fade out thinners is this stuff.

http://www.express-paints.co.uk/u-pol-9-blend-aerosol-450ml/

You can get it on amazon or ebay and there are other brands available. It's all the same

I won't be able to do a guide until the weekend but you should practice with an airbrush before taking to your car anyway

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Having just written that all down, if you haven't already got a compressor and airbrush, you may be better off with a smart repairer...or if you are near Oxford you are more than welcome to come round and use mine

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Just a note to say that I haven't forgotten about the write up (and will do it soon) but have had a bit of a hectic time since I last posted. 

To manage expectations though, a blend is always easiest when you can lose the edge (I was doing the door jamb so there were edges and light deflections galore). Doing an invisible 360 degree blend will be tricky and is why smart repairers don't like doing it. Nonetheless, I'll do a step by step guide to show the process and we can see how invisible we can make it

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20 hours ago, Lennym1984 said:

Just a note to say that I haven't forgotten about the write up (and will do it soon) but have had a bit of a hectic time since I last posted. 

To manage expectations though, a blend is always easiest when you can lose the edge (I was doing the door jamb so there were edges and light deflections galore). Doing an invisible 360 degree blend will be tricky and is why smart repairers don't like doing it. Nonetheless, I'll do a step by step guide to show the process and we can see how invisible we can make it

OK thanks. I ordered touch up paint from the supplier you suggested and despite it supposedly having been despatched on 22nd it's not arrived yet. They claim an issue with Royal Mail checks but i am becoming increasingly sceptical! :sad01_anim:

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They're probably telling the truth. I've ordered from them a few times (my wife drove through our fence last year) and they've always been reliable. 

Did you get an airbrush? I've seen people online using a composed air can... Which is obviously cheaper than a compressor 

Edited by Lennym1984

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I've used a Festool denibber on a previous car with good results. You paint the chip with the original paint. Then sort of build up a blister of clear coat then use the Festool to take off the high spot. Polish with a DA or rotary. You may have to key the chip before hand as on occasion, I managed to pull the repair out with the Festool. Results were very good. Unfortunately I think in your case you may have to respray or get someone like a Chips away specialist to do it.

Edited by uggski

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On 10/4/2018 at 3:53 PM, Lennym1984 said:

They're probably telling the truth. I've ordered from them a few times (my wife drove through our fence last year) and they've always been reliable. 

Did you get an airbrush? I've seen people online using a composed air can... Which is obviously cheaper than a compressor 

The original package finally arrived on Tuesday......to be followed on Thursday by the replacement that the supplier had offered me, so a frustrating initial delay but they did at least come up with a solution. 

Have applied the paint meantime and leaving it for a few days to cure before sanding back.  Airbrush is probably a step too far.

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12 hours ago, uggski said:

I've used a Festool denibber on a previous car with good results. You paint the chip with the original paint. Then sort of build up a blister of clear coat then use the Festool to take off the high spot. Polish with a DA or rotary. You may have to key the chip before hand as on occasion, I managed to pull the repair out with the Festool. Results were very good. Unfortunately I think in your case you may have to respray or get someone like a Chips away specialist to do it.

I looked at the Fastool previously but for the cost wasn't confident enough to risk it. As you say it wouldn't be appropriate at this stage. Depending on how latest trial turns out i may go for a respray anyway as the lid is peppered with really tiny chips anyway.

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