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MattO89

Front to rear brake line replacement

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Both my front-to-rear brake lines have corrosion on them. I need to get under the car to validate the extent, but it was an advisory last September and from the history of the car it seems they're original. 

In terms of replacement, I guess I've got two options (regardless of whether I do the work myself or not) - either replace the whole line or make a join and replace the rusted area only. I've got access to the chamfering kit required for the latter.

What option have others around here gone for, and are there any particular points to watch out for? 

Thanks

Matt

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I replaced the whole lot as once I started looking closely the rust was quite widespread. Worst area was just under the OSF inner wheelarch which you won't see normally unless you take the wheel off and get your head in there with a torch. You may be luckier than me. I gave some tips in my running report (last page)

There is one line from the distribution point in the NSF wheelarch to a junction halfway down the sill where it splits into two lines. One goes to the NSR caliper and the other goes via the NSR wheelarch and then across the bulkhead behind the engine to the OSR caliper. On mine, the corrosion on this line wasn't too bad and it is a bugger to replace, so if it's just the front to rear lines that are rusted, might be more practice to put a joint around the NSR wheelarch somewhere.

I've got some more photos from when I did the job if there is anything you want some more detail on.

Edited by Nobbie

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Interesting you got an advisory for a corroded brake line, since toughening the test earlier this year it is now a major fail even with a friendly tester I've used for years....!  I got mine cleaned up to bare metal with emery cloth at the clip under the passenger door and lightly greased it so the tester could clearly see the bear metal to get it through on re-test and have since repainted and greased it back into the clip both there and at the clip near the front left wheel..  I have to do the lines as good preventative maintenance now I know there was an issue but I haven't got a flare tool. 

Do you reckon it would be feasible to tackle this doing the whole lines front to rear on axle stands @Nobbie ? Also if you have the pictures?

Edited by ½cwt

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Have a look through my post for details in doing this job.

I replaced my front to back brake pipes on axle stands.  First time I had ever made brake pipes as well, was quite satisfying.

 

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1 hour ago, ½cwt said:

Interesting you got an advisory for a corroded brake line, since toughening the test earlier this year it is now a major fail even with a friendly tester I've used for years....!  I got mine cleaned up to bare metal with emery cloth at the clip under the passenger door and lightly greased it so the tester could clearly see the bear metal to get it through on re-test and have since repainted and greased it back into the clip both there and at the clip near the front left wheel..  I have to do the lines as good preventative maintenance now I know there was an issue but I haven't got a flare tool. 

Do you reckon it would be feasible to tackle this doing the whole lines front to rear on axle stands @Nobbie ? Also if you have the pictures?

Dodgy line in OSF wheelarch😳, literally fell apart as it was removed.

DOX01gK.jpg

These are useful

CFaM8q7.jpg

Need to shield bits from heat and best to use a proper flared brake spanner

ONErgQ6.jpg

PCLtlvf.jpg

Useful to make up some connectors to blank off when you remove pipes, just a connector with the copper pipe crimped with pliers

PfGyjse.jpg

Need to drop front ARB to get pipe across front of car.

9pfVevM.jpg

You need to feed in the pipe across the rear from the middle of the open clamshell/engine cover all the way and then feed it all the way back to the other wheel.

OKOU0SK.jpg

No problems doing on axle stands, patience in removing the old connector is key as it would be easy to break things by being too rough. Lots of heat/cold cycles and tighten nuts slightly first to break corrosion before undoing.

It was easier than replacing my exhaust manifolds😀

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Thanks guys - loads of good information in there!

2 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Interesting you got an advisory for a corroded brake line, since toughening the test earlier this year it is now a major fail even with a friendly tester I've used for years....! 

That was from last September, so before the stricter testing was put in place - expecting it to fail so it's next on the list. 

I'll start off by getting the car on the ramps and looking at the condition of all of the pipes, not just the front-to-rear pipes that were highlighted by a specialist recently. Mine's had a "rear brake pipe replacement" at a specialist a few years back, so I'll dig in to what that actually means as well. Nothing ever been done at the front, so will check the state of the pipes in the wheelarches. 

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I've just finished doing all my brake lines and they are not to hard but more fiddely to be honest. The front to rear can be a but funny as you do need to remove the inner plastic arch and I found it easier to remove the washer bottle. The hardest was the left to right front as it goes through a small area which has a few tight bends in it. The rear left to right goes across and round the engine bay and isn't hard at all. I'm sure if you have a few tools and have a bit of knowledge on cars you can do this job with not much hassle. 

If a pipe looks rusty replace it. I've seen a pipe that looks ok but just a little rust but did bust on the brake test. So lucky as it could have bust on my way home. Deffo change, don't sand and cover in grease. 

Edited by Tonybandit

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I paid £180 to have my lines replaced. I didn’t even think it was worth messing on for that££. 

Edited by Cooks

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@Araf , given the excellent pics and details in this thread, I'd propose to adjust the title and move to How To, could be useful for others.

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