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½cwt

Luggage Compartment Heat

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16 hours ago, Menoporsche said:

 

 

Hi chaps

According to ARAF and nick_usa's answers in this thread on p1, I have a US-build spec (C02) with option 575 Cool Luggage - "refers to an Air Con outlet in the front luggage compartment. However it doesn't cool the luggage as it is there to cool the Sat Nav DVD unit as these in some markets (USA included) overheat in extreme conditions."

http://www.BoXa.net/forum/topic/41758-fresh-juicy-portuguese-orange/

 

Wow - so an option.  Never heard of that one before!  I see it now, must be extremely rare.  I've never seen any reference to it in PET diagrams before.

Every day is a school day.

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On 9/11/2019 at 12:38 PM, Happy Days said:

For cold drinks, isn't the glovebox airconned?

What glove box in a pre-facelift....?

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On 9/11/2019 at 10:20 AM, dpg123 said:

Has anyone ever installed a 12v cool box that fits well into the frunk of a boxster? On a long trip, a quick stop off with a cold drink and a non-melted picnic would be much nicer than a motorway services...

It would fit, as we had a decent sized cool box, but not a powered one, in the front which kept cool it was the 'ambient' storage that got hot.

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Ive found that the rear heats up pretty warm being by engine/exhaust. I try not to put anything susceptible to heat in there. But great for keeping the takeaway warm in transit. Front never really noticed heat issues. Thats where the weekly shop goes for the short journey to and from supermarket. In winter always find booze stays nice and cool in front en route to social gatherings etc

Edited by Billzeebub

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I only really noticed the heat soak in the front on a 6 hour run in France and on a day when it was about 30°C in the shade and I had air con running, so 3 rads  and 2 condensers and lots of air flow blowing it around the frunk.

As I noted in the OP, the rear is pretty hostile for heat with all the drive train and exhausts surrounding it and the header tank in it!

I'm going to run some tests with the insulation material I quoted early on in the post but a UK winter may not be the right controlled environment as the ambient won't be near the temps quoted above.

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I know the OP specifically made a reference to the centre rad in the 3.2.

Not much to add to the discussion, but my 3.2's front luggage compartment seems to be noticeably more toasty than my previous 2.7.

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Well I parted myself from a tenner plus some change and got a roll of thin insulation material.  When I get the chance I'll see if it is possible to fit and let you know.  If it seems to be a success I'll make it a How To.  There won't be a real test until I pack it up with a week's luggage and head off on a long trip which isn't likely until late Spring next year....

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2 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Well I parted myself from a tenner plus some change and got a roll of thin insulation material.  When I get the chance I'll see if it is possible to fit and let you know.  If it seems to be a success I'll make it a How To.  There won't be a real test until I pack it up with a week's luggage and head off on a long trip which isn't likely until late Spring next year....

You can always test it out on mine and I'll let you know how I get on in November on my tour through France and down to South Spain if your desperate to see if it works. 

I hope you know when I'm joking

I would try it out myself but I only bring wine back and any heat seems not to have any impact on the taste.

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Drop by any dry weekend for a fitting, come to think of it bring some of the wine!

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4 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Drop by any dry weekend for a fitting, come to think of it bring some of the wine!

Happy too I owe you a glass or two fir your support when I was doing the cruise control 

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I got round to fitting some extra insulation into the boot.  No performance/effectiveness indicator yet, but half an hour's work and a chance to check for no water in the boot under the polystyrene, which was the case (Phew). Here's a mini 'How To':

Take out all the carpet buy removing all the 'fir tree' fixings, the two half turn fixing on the left side, the latch cover (2 cross head screws) and the screw fixings that hold the carpet section over the back of the lights and the two polystyrene panels to leave a nice empty boot.  Using https://www.toolstation.com/ybs-general-purpose-thermawrap-insulation/p16779 described as 'General purpose Thermawrap Insulation' which cost just over £10 for a roll, the 600mm width does the job perfectly. Tuck it a small amount under the wool/fibre insulation on the bulkhead and spread it out into the corners.  Make a small relief cut near the loom where it passes through the grommet in the left corner and two relief cuts where the actuators for the spoiler project up from the boot floor. 

sfouXqw.jpg 

Jcwf7BT.jpg 

You can see the relief cut top left and the fist cut bottom left in this image.

8Nhwy4D.jpg  

QSWfvar.jpg  

Cut a small hole for the header tank level switch loom connector and profile 2 pieces to wrap around the pipes and header tank allowing for the level indicator window to be clear.  Use the channels in the tank to hold the insulation back in place. Start refitting with the two polystyrene panels, then the back panel of the carpet.  This back panel does have some insulation bonded to the back of it around the tank so some thought has gone into this at Stuttgart...

Zf0vmq7.jpg 

4RwyWrU.jpg

 

14OLiwp.jpg 

Then wrestle the carpet back in slotting it into the moulded groove in the back section and using the two fold lines to help get the flaps back in to the extreme corners.  There is no indication that there is an extra lay of material when refitting, all fixing holes line up and nothing it too tight or needs forcing back into place.

yO0mX8A.jpg 

All done.  (Yep, I know the carpet is filthy, I blame the POs.)

Next step, the front....

 

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Just to update a little if anyone is following, the rear definitely seems cooler with the insulation.  I keep a coat in the boot and it now hardly feels warm after a decent drive so seems a worthwhile ½ hour and £10 on materials.

The journey in France that highlighted it did involve a cool box in the front, which kept cool, and was only to the Le Mans area so temps were only up to about 30°C not fully Mediterranean.

Just need to find time and a dry day this winter to do the front.

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On 11/8/2019 at 12:45 PM, ½cwt said:

Just need to find time and a dry day this winter to do the front.

I finally found the dry winter day, if a little chilly, to do the front today.  Only lined the bottom, front and sides up to the chassis member level but even easier than the rear compartment.

I am certainly finding less heat transfer in the rear compartment.  Might consider lining the underside of the bonnet and boot lids too.

All I need now is to find a nice time to take a holiday to southern France in the summer to test it.... 🤔

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I drive mine from Surrey to Leicester weekly and the front boot remains cold. The back warms my shopping up a treat. 
I don’t put perishables in the back 

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1 hour ago, Senna said:

I drive mine from Surrey to Leicester weekly and the front boot remains cold. The back warms my shopping up a treat. 
I don’t put perishables in the back 

Per my OP it was found as in issue (albeit it a bit of a first world issue...) touring in France in the summer, plus the additional heat rejection from the centre front rad of a 3.2S.  But the insulation is also an option to help with not heating up your shopping in the rear even in the UK.  Not a factory option, so possibly not applicable to this project.

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