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Halfordwill

Buying a Pierburg water pump

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I want to pro actively change my water pump on my 986 but can’t seem to find a supplier of a Pierburg pump which I believe is the OEM and should have a composite blade. Any ideas please?

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Also https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F312120610526

The LASO make are also OEM with a composite impeller.

I would question the need to change as a precaution though🤔. Mine lasted upto 140k before failing, although I think I did bring that on with keeping the revs between 4-7k RPM🤣. If it makes you happy though, why not.

Edited by Nobbie

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4 minutes ago, Halfordwill said:

Mines only done 95,000 but I thought that was pushing it on the original pump. 

If you are regularly pushing the revs to the red line it's probably a good idea. Mine was used as a daily driver upto 137k, so probably a fairly easy life until I got hold of it and gave it a damned good thrashing🤣

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3 hours ago, Nobbie said:

If you are regularly pushing the revs to the red line it's probably a good idea. Mine was used as a daily driver upto 137k, so probably a fairly easy life until I got hold of it and gave it a damned good thrashing🤣

If you are that regularly pushing the revs, how about an under drive kit?

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19 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

If you are that regularly pushing the revs, how about an under drive kit?

Yes, already done after the water pump went to take stress off the ancillaries rather than any nominal power gain.

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This looks a really easy job as well just a few bolts to get to as it's not part of the normal cambelt change like it is on other cars 

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Any problem with the bolts coming out @Nobbie?

 

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1 hour ago, GmanB said:

Any problem with the bolts coming out @Nobbie?

 

Not for the underdrive pulley, no, but you do have to grind or saw off a bit of the block which marks the TDC to allow the UDP to fit in place. Difficult access, but I just used a hacksaw blade with a bit of gaffer tape around it to act as a handle. Took about 5 mins to saw through.

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7 hours ago, GmanB said:

Any problem with the bolts coming out @Nobbie?

 

You've met @Nobbie before then?

His bolts don't come out after every job. Just some....

 

Cheers, Baggers.

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One slightly difficult one at the top, and make note where they come from , some are different lenghs, and whilst you are at it replace the stat.

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12 hours ago, Nobbie said:

Not for the underdrive pulley, no, but you do have to grind or saw off a bit of the block which marks the TDC to allow the UDP to fit in place. Difficult access, but I just used a hacksaw blade with a bit of gaffer tape around it to act as a handle. Took about 5 mins to saw through.

What's UDP please 

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Under Drive Pulley, perhaps? Probably not User Datagram Protocol, which is my day-to-day usage.

Edited by AMacdonald

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Autodoc have had the Pierburg pumps in the past.

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On 2/6/2020 at 7:15 PM, Nobbie said:

Also https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F312120610526

The LASO make are also OEM with a composite impeller.

I would question the need to change as a precaution though🤔. Mine lasted upto 140k before failing, although I think I did bring that on with keeping the revs between 4-7k RPM🤣. If it makes you happy though, why not.

This is the seller I bought from last year. Identical to the old one I removed but it cost me about £30 more at that time.

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I've just done the water pump, thermostat and aux belt this weekend, went Meyle which came with a composite impeller

It's a little bit tricky to access one or two of the bolts, but it helps they aren't in too tight so came out fairly easily

Looked to be the original in mine from 2000 and had done 83K miles, but having removed it I'm glad i did, it was very noisy and you can tell it's worn, so if your car is similar age and mileage and hasn't been done, it's probably not a bad idea

Be careful of the old gasket too, it's very sharp. Don't ask me how I know! 

Edited by naim22

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20 hours ago, AMacdonald said:

Under Drive Pulley, perhaps? Probably not User Datagram Protocol, which is my day-to-day usage.

Thanks 

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On 2/6/2020 at 11:16 PM, Nobbie said:

Yes, already done after the water pump went to take stress off the ancillaries rather than any nominal power gain.

I guess the larger pulley would reduce any potential cavitation at Nobbie level revs, but not flow as much at idle?

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1 hour ago, Danncus said:

I guess the larger pulley would reduce any potential cavitation at Nobbie level revs, but not flow as much at idle?

Hadn't thought about cavitation, my main concern was running the ancillaries at high revs for prolonged periods, particularly the power steering pump. Not noticed any effect on temps at idle.

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3 minutes ago, Nobbie said:

Hadn't thought about cavitation, my main concern was running the ancillaries at high revs for prolonged periods, particularly the power steering pump. Not noticed any effect on temps at idle.

We used an oversized water pump pulley on my racing MG to reduce overspeeding /cavitation and theoretical parasitic loads. Probably less than 1%

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I would imagine it's sized for worst case hot market idle/low rpm driving (and that includes the requirements for the 996 as the base engine architecture is shared), I also imagine there aren't different sized pulleys for different markets to save on complexity

so in the UK I think it's unlikely we would see any issues with an UDP from a purely cooling based perspective

And that doesn't consider what the requirements are for the other ancillaries such as alternator, PAS pump or HVAC compressor

The vehicles I'm involved with either use an electronically controlled pump, or an engine driven one with an electronically controlled variable shroud. So this helps with cavitation, faster warmup times and energy efficiency.

Edited by naim22

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