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daz05

PSE Maintenance and Repair Tutorial

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Guys,

 

As promised here is my video covering the PSE exhaust issues I had after lay up.

 

 

Enjoy and hit the like button, leave comments and subscribe if you haven't already, really appreciated.

 

Thanks 

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9 minutes ago, Bike Loon said:

Whats PSE @Araf ? ;)

No idea. 😄

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Excellent tutorial Daz.

You should add it to the ‘How To’ section too. 

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Think they are £40 from the OPC, but there are no Porsche markings on them so available for around £20 in some part retailers. 997 seems to be using it too. 

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Good vid l just need to share the part number Daz and how come you have a sounds thing on an S ?

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26 minutes ago, zagamuffin said:

Good vid l just need to share the part number Daz and how come you have a sounds thing on an S ?

Hi mate and thanks, I have it because I retrofitted it but it's an option named I150, gives you some induction roar in your ear and really comes into its own at high rpm I really like it.  The 991s all have it fitted as standard as do the GTS cars.

OPC part no. 7pp 906 270 and Pierberg no, is 7.22280.04.

 

 

 

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Great vid Daz,

 

I guess the only other possible cause of that problem would be if the incorrect signal was being sent to the valve, I,e  the console switch has somehow gone doolally, maybe a  PIWIS job in that case.

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Great video @daz05 very informative.   top production quality too :)

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3 hours ago, Greenman said:

Great vid Daz,

 

I guess the only other possible cause of that problem would be if the incorrect signal was being sent to the valve, I,e  the console switch has somehow gone doolally, maybe a  PIWIS job in that case.

Yes true, all the switch does is send the voltage down the line, I was able to replicate it with a 9v battery.

Maybe a coincidence but I had a coolant warning in january that went away, OPC said it was fine, apparently its all linked.

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1 hour ago, Withy said:

Great video @daz05 very informative.   top production quality too :)

Thanks Withy, appreciate that. 

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Great video @daz05and made me have a look. Guess what, my off-side valve appears to have seized right up, can't budge it!!

Near side is fine so it can't be the problem you show here. Is there a nice easy way to free it back up that you know of without taking off the exhaust?

At least I now know it's default position is PSE 'on' so it could be worse!!

Edited by Buzzfox
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26 minutes ago, Buzzfox said:

Great video @daz05and made me have a look. Guess what, my off-side valve appears to have seized right up, can't budge it!!

Near side is fine so it can't be the problem you show here. Is there a nice easy way to free it back up that you know of without taking off the exhaust?

At least I now know it's default position is PSE 'on' so it could be worse!!

Thanks and sorry to here that.  I would try some kind of penetrating lubricant and a wire brush or something to try and clear the area and get it moving again.  With some elbow grease and some persistence you should be able to free it.

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I soaked my valves with plus gas and various penetrating oils. After a few days I managed to free it up, I then clean all the moving parts with a bit of wire wool. It is awkward on the car but I managed it without lifting the car.

Ive been regularly open and closing the valves on every journey and also giving them a squirt with some fancy wd40 high temperature spray lube.

P.S mine sounds fantastic now with the de snorkel,BMC FILTER and the re map👍 
Proper fruity but not boy racer 👌

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1 hour ago, Lonewolfgjp said:

been regularly open and closing the valves on every journey and also giving them a squirt with some fancy wd40 high temperature spray lube.

Not sure on the 987, but on the 981 the valves should move every time you start the car, so with regular driving I would be suprised to see this problem.

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It is the same on the 987, they are open on start up and close when the vacuum builds.

It maybe the design on the 987 that leads to them sticking.Its pretty hot down behind the heat shields and the rear bumper.

 The previous owner of mine had the same issue sorted at Porsche. Maybe he always had the exhaust off and it seized closed.

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Do you think it's anything to do with moisture left over or is it the carbon build up? 

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9 minutes ago, daz05 said:

Do you think it's anything to do with moisture left over or is it the carbon build up? 

I think it is moisture.

 I noticed mine was playing up and when I ran it on the drive there was water dripping from the bottom of the flap pivot on the bottom. I think it had built up a bit of crud and the valve hadn’t got enough pressure to free it off. I think that had also caused the valve actuator to seize over time.

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14 hours ago, Greenman said:

Not sure on the 987, but on the 981 the valves should move every time you start the car, so with regular driving I would be suprised to see this problem.

You're probably right if the car is driven every few days, but the valves seizing on 981's happens quite a lot.  My car had one side stuck solid when I bought it (the selling garage replaced it), the car had less than 4k miles at 3 years old so I put it down to long periods unused.  However, 18 months and 9k miles later both sides are knackered, one has even snapped off the arm attached to the valve spindle, I imagine my usage is typical of many Porsche owners - pleasure trips out and occasional holiday, it does sit idle for a max of 4 weeks or so at a time in winter months though.  Luckily I took out an extended warranty and both sides and actuators are getting replaced later this month when my local OPC workshop reopens - parts are in stock waiting.

@daz05 great video - thanks!  As well as the stuck valves the car is warning there is a cooling system fault (temps are fine so could be related to the exhaust) which appeared a few weeks ago, so I'm wondering if the changeover valve could be faulty too?  I'll soon find out after the new exhausts are fitted anyway.

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my Bs is a daily and ges PSE used 90% of the time, on my last service one bank was replaced due to siezing up.Hadnt even noticed , thats until i drove it with both working again.Wow what a difference....

So use bears no relationship to it seizing id say...

 

 

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10 hours ago, Gorsh said:

 

@daz05 great video - thanks!  As well as the stuck valves the car is warning there is a cooling system fault (temps are fine so could be related to the exhaust) which appeared a few weeks ago, so I'm wondering if the changeover valve could be faulty too?  I'll soon find out after the new exhausts are fitted anyway.

Yes I had the same coolant warning during lay up over winter assumed it was lack of use but probably linked I think as the opc said the level was ok and hadn't dropped.

Got another one coming to show you guys how to access the engine and more importantly how to out it back together in a timely manner.

 

 

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On 5/7/2020 at 10:40 PM, daz05 said:

Thanks and sorry to here that.  I would try some kind of penetrating lubricant and a wire brush or something to try and clear the area and get it moving again.  With some elbow grease and some persistence you should be able to free it.

Thanks for the advice but I've just thought I've got an extended warranty on the car until November so I think I'll wait for the service dept. to re-open and see if I can get it done under warranty. Knowing my luck I'd only end up knackering it beyond repair and then they'll say it's all my fault and charge me a cazillon quid to sort it!

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15 hours ago, Gorsh said:

 

@daz05 great video - thanks!  As well as the stuck valves the car is warning there is a cooling system fault (temps are fine so could be related to the exhaust) which appeared a few weeks ago, so I'm wondering if the changeover valve could be faulty too?  I'll soon find out after the new exhausts are fitted anyway.

Just out of interest what changeover valve are you referring to? What is it about the exhaust system that fires up a coolant fault? I think @Corkscrewhad a similar warning a while ago that turned out to be caused by the exhaust but neither of us could understand how that happens? (apologies if it wasn't you @Corkscrew!)

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