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Everything posted by Stuart21UK

  1. Can't remember when it's effective but changed regulations are usually adopted sooner by those that they affect, they'll be a cut off date I've had one a buildings insurance policy renewal yesterday, went down a few pence per month
  2. Had both my 987 and 981 insured through Porsche aka Aviva aka Marsh until this year as they split policy book between another part of Marsh and the one mentioned (Carbon) I think....anyway Marsh Commercial (or whatever part mine went to) quoted £600 pa with silly excesses and I could get cover at £300 via Churchill with lower excesses...
  3. When it comes to car insurance I'm a consumer like everyone else (not a product I arrange myself)...whether many people are aware or not, the following will now apply: FCA CONFIRMS MEASURES TO PROTECT CUSTOMERS FROM THE LOYALTY PENALTY IN HOME AND MOTOR INSURANCE MARKETS The FCA has implemented a package of remedies to improve competition and protect home and motor insurance customers from loyalty penalties. This includes new rules, so that renewal quotes for home and motor insurance consumers are no more expensive than they would be for new customers. These measures address the issues identified in the FCA’s September 2020 market study, which found that millions of home and motor insurance customers lose out if they renew repeatedly with their current providers. In 2018, 6 million loyal policy holders would have saved £1.2 billion had they paid the average price for their actual risk. Many firms increase prices for existing customers each year at renewal – this is known as “price walking”. This means that consumers have to shop around and switch every year to avoid paying higher prices for being loyal. It also distorts the way the market works for everyone. Many firms offer below-cost prices to attract new customers. They also use sophisticated processes to target the best deals at customers who they think will not switch in the future and will therefore pay more. The FCA’s new rules will stop firms price walking. Insurers will be required to offer renewing customers a price that is no higher than they would pay as a new customer. In addition to the new rules on pricing for home and motor insurance, the FCA is also bringing in new rules to: • Give most consumers easier methods of cancelling the automatic renewal of their policy, • Require insurance firms to do more to consider how they offer fair value to their customers, and • Require home and motor insurance firms to report data to the FCA so that it can supervise the market more effectively A very good thing I think but where does that leave comparison sites? Will they cease to show savings as large as to date going forward? discuss!
  4. @A-Plan Insurance My renewal is due in the next week, just tried to phone you but gave up after 5 mins holding. Can someone contact me? DM me and I'll provide a contact number Thanks EDIT - don't worry taken via Churchill, needed to get it done today due to other committments
  5. yes mine is fitted 24/7 365 days a year, never comes out
  6. I used to get a weird reflection with the mesh, an odd type of deflection of the clouds in it every now and again My clear one is fine, the buffeting isn't any worse as far as I remember (but then I've had a clear one for 5yrs probably), same with reflections...nothing that bothers me
  7. Ok...guess you used the old mesh frame....I thought you'd just cut out a bit of plastic and inserted it straight into the mount...never mind
  8. thanks, was thinking more on its own though so we could see finish etc
  9. have you got the legal option on the household insurance? usually whilst via the main insurer the cover is provided by a separate underwriter, maybe they can 'independently' advise? (or maybe not due to the link) I'd expect you not to be in a bettered position but the way you describe it doesn't really seem reasonable....complain as necessary (they will have a formal procedure in place with set timescales generally max 8wks, but to try to resolve in 4wks) then https://www.financial-ombudsman.org.uk/ A complaint to the FOS will cost them a handling fee so whilst that's nowhere near the £7500 difference it might provide some incentive to work with you to a resolution Good Luck
  10. Full of stollen, turkey curry, beer and now onto the rum

    (back atya @rowbos)

  11. fund managers would get paid on performance wouldn't they?
  12. The industry is so much more heavily regulated now, most of the cowboys are gone...and obviously the favour of endowment mortgages gone near 20 years ago ...still, some interesting financial products still exist...good old 'help for the masses'/first time buyer Help to Buy shared equity being one of them...have the powers that be thought about how many people will get to the end of their mortgage term, be on the verge of retirement and not realsitically be able to buy out of the 20% equity loan for instance? Or when they do look to buy out of it, the interest rates are sufficiently higher that they cant, or the value of the property hasnt gone up enough to support the ability to do so anyway (had one of those recently and they are having to put off a house move until that improves in a few years hopefully). We had HSBC doing 3 year interest mortgages only a few years ago, with the idea they were transferred onto full capital and interest at the 3 year point (but no guarantee what interest rates might be and whther it was realistic to be able to do so). Meno I'm not pension authorised (just mortgage and protection) Interesting business proposal though....do you think that could work with Tesco's (or any other trade or business for that matter)...I buy my food from them and if they make enough profit in the year I get a cashback? I know what you are getting at but no adviser can guarantee the future performance of anything, the model you suggest would make no sense to anyone long term, it would just fail.....that said I guess most people who have an IFA would only keep going back to them if their advice had proved sound, would they not anyway (i.e. current system works in a different way anyway?) apologies for the ramble....
  13. the rest of us missed it, pity we could have spammed them back..
  14. Just to clarify... do you mean the 3yrs warranty on a new VW no longer includes 3 yrs breakdown (as it used to), now it's only 1? and to add to that there are changes on your car insurance relating to EU travel I had my car insurance through Porsche/Aviva/Marsh renewal through in July and when I read it, it implied foreign breakdown was included. When I questioned it I was told (by the team manager) that it was no longer included BUT I said 'it specifically states it in the policy booklet you've sent me so either a) I want the correct up to date document or b) I expect to be covered (point of contract) After I insisted she check with the underwriters (Aviva), she called me back to say it WAS indeed still covered... Bastids still put my excess up from £400 to £750 covertly mind
  15. good video Daz, like it as it is TBH
  16. I tried to use one of these (bottom left in picture which is longer than it looks) but as you know the drain holes are hard to find and access...my issues were resolved by the Indie blowing air down the hole I think...others have used similar bladder/trombone cleaners to help clear although I'm not sure whats down the bottom end... https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B075NC1FNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  17. did you not poke a trombone cleaner down it?
  18. posted on my own website as a permanent link but also below in the hope it helps someone http://stuart-brown.photography/ashtrayfix 13th November 2019 This page shows the removal, and fix, of my 981 Boxster ashtray which Steve aka @Ringer250 on BoXa.net, helped me with today. For a couple of months the ashtray hasn’t worked properly…well as ashtrays go it’s working in that you could easily flick your fag ash into it (or keep oddments or loose change in it like I do!) but the flap had stopped clasping shut. It has therefore been in an open setting for a little while (untidy and gets in the way when changing gear somewhat too). So the first job was to recruit an able-bodied assistant to help with the task of taking apart the centre console and taking out the ashtray module to inspect it. …when I say ‘assistant’ what I mean is someone who is both superior in knowledge and happy to take on the task! Enter Steve aka Ringer250 on BoXa.net (easily bought with Rich Tea biscuits and tea). Using a plastic prying bar (see image below of a similar set) Steve proceeded in prying away the side of the centre console on both sides. Both sides are held on with clips. Before starting the prying of the sides, we needed to lift the lid of the centre console. Wedging open the gap means the sides come off. It is not necessary to completely remove the sides of the console, just leave them loose. You need to remove the lose plastic ashtray insert then careflly pull upward along the whole length of the silver console trim to free it from the console. be careful of the rubber gasket that sits underneath the silver trim, this can just be seen in the picture below (and in another picture further down too). remove the rubber gasket here you can see the silver trim and the gasket both removed The switch panel has tabs, so we had to release one side and then push over the panel to make more room for the tabs on the other side to be released. Now carefully pull upwards on the switch panel. This is connected via an electrical connector underneath Having removed the switch panel from the centre console disconnect the electrical connector and put the switch panel to one side. Below you can see the gear stick linkage that sits underneath, also the side panels sitting lose on either side fo the console. To remove the ashtray itself carefully push forwards until the ashtray can be lifted upwards, free of the console. Again be careful as it is connected by electrical plugs to the wiring loom. Disconnect the electrical connector. Again here you can see what sits underneath, and within the centre console The following two pictures show the left side of the ashtray. The front of the ashtray mechanism is to the left on the pictures, rear to the right. Note the silver pin in the centre of the image. This, it turns out was the problem with the ashtray not staying closed. it doesn’t act as a hinge or anything, instead it semi guides the locking mechanism. The pin on my ashtray was present and in position but had poped out slightly meaning whilst all the parts moved correctly, the ‘L shaped’ part behind the hinge (that the pin sits in) wasnt working correctly. We joked about this being the ‘£150 pin’. Had we lost it, the only way to fix the issue would have been a new ashtray mechanism at circa £150! I dropped the pin whilst trying to figure out what it did and trying to refit it. Fortunately I found the pin in between seat and door on the carpet (which given its dimunitive size is remarkably lucky – its circa 2mm diameter and about 10mm long at most). Here you can see the connector and part number, this is for my 2013 registered 981S – 991.553.141.02 Two videos showing how the mechanism works, one from the side and the other from underneath the ashtray. Note the odd ‘L shaped’ plastic bit that the silver pin guides into, which moves to help (somehow) keep the lid closed on the ashtray. Lastly, as all good guides confirm, refit in the reverse order after confirming that the ashtray now works! …and don’t forget to thank the person who helped you did it for you… Rewards in this case given as a hot mug of tea and a packet of Rich Tea biscuits. Thanks Steve, your help was appreciated 🙂
  19. how to take off a 981 door card permalink on my website but also posted here in the hope it helps someone else http://stuart-brown.photography/doorcardrattle 3th November 2019 I have had a rattle coming from my passenger door for a little while, its not noticeable on normal roads but when driving especially rough, or bumpy roads, it can be heard occasionally. As a result Steve (@Ringer250 on BoXa.net) and I decided to partly take apart the door, removing the outer door card to see if anything was loose within. Start by prising of the end cap of the door panel. The picture shows the type of pry kit that Steve has and used to do this. The following two pictures show the end cap being removed. Next very carefully remove the small plastic triangle near the wing mirror. To do so we used the pry to initially loosen it, then carefully jiggled to the right and left, not directly up as it is retained by a J Key which could snap You’ll notice that it stays connected to the outer door card via a plastic strip. Remove the end cap nearest the hinge (also part of the facing edge of the door card itself). go on to prise off the black plastic cover behind the door pull this exposes two Torx 25 screws that need to be removed, these are shown in the next two pictures a third is behind the door pull remove the electrical connector by pushing the lever down and pulling away then undo the last of the four Torx screws in the end of the door card now pull up on the door card but be careful as it will still be connected by a cable connecting the inner door card and the door pull This picture shows the cable still connected. Whilst supporting the door card you need someone else to pry out the connecting cable to release the outer from inner door cards completely. Here you can see the inner door card. This would need to be removed to access window parts etc…also at the top you can see the airbag system – to the left the airbag and to the right the explosive charge…. do not touch either! Here is the inner side of the outer door card. Within this (on the other side) is the door pull, the side glove box and the windows switches. These pictures show rubber bits that cushion where the outer door card latches back onto the inner door card. We thought that one of these had been lost so made one up with velcro tape, later we found the original on the driveway so it must have fallen off when removing the door card. We replaced it and removed the velcro makeshift one. Its possible, of course, that the original rubber part had been lose in between the door cards and as a result the rattle was the two door cards (inner and outer) rattling against each other… Put together all parts in the reverse order This part was found after we’d put everything back together, its not obvious where it fits and we couldn’t see any broken parts inside. In the best tradition of car repair we noted its part number and it now sits in my office draw! The car has been driven extensively over the following two weeks and there are no rattles present, with all componemnts working normally. EDIT Steve searched the part number – The part we found afterwards was in fact part of the centre console trim on the left hand side, apparently to stop rattles, it was a U shaped piece originally! Like I said no rattles are present as it is… reward your mate with tea and biscuits 🙂
  20. you've helped the forum to do the same (make up their mind) so your financial pain has probably cost them (Lancaster) more than the £159 they've screwed from you....
  21. don't forget the use of the the Financial Ombudsman if you need them, the threat alone may change their view as any complaints (justified or not) any one organisation has that are dealt with by the FOS that exceed 35 in a year costs the company £500 I believe (hence cheaper to stand down and apologise to you than stand up and front you out maybe) in other words they pay the FOS to investigate a case against them!
  22. As an interested flake of information for people using comparrison sites..it's not uncommon for these to be actually owned by an insurance company themselves eg Admiral Group own Confused.com Admiral Group operates under a number of brands in the United Kingdom: Admiral Insurance 'Bell' from Admiral (exclusively telematics policies, previously Bell Insurance) Confused.com Diamond Insurance Elephant Gladiator (for commercial vehicles)
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