The Caped Crusader

To properly investigate the leak, I think it would be best to remove the B-pillar covering, rear bulkhead carpet. Then get into the car with a torch with the seats folded forward, if too tight, remove the seats. Then, get someone with a garden hose pour copious amounts of water over the top and sit and watch where the water is coming in. 

There's a bodyshop near me that refurb Porsche lights. They do all the usual steps to polish out all the degradation and then use a Glasurit lacquer as the final coat. Look like brand new with a coating that would likeky last longer than two years. They can also have a local company apply ppf on top of the paint thereby adding stonechip protection too. 

I'm in Scotland, by the way. 

13 hours ago, Craigmann36 said:

Thanks! My thoughts also.

But how do I go about doing so?

You need someone with PIWIS. Are there no independents near you that could do this? It's a ten minute job! 

Are you sure it doesn't need a 'vehicle handover' procedure carried out using PIWIS? 

Once you've got the old ones off, take them to a machine shop and have them drill them out counterclockwise  carefully and clean out the threads. Fit new bleed nipples and punt them on ebay. At least you'll get some money back. 

If the bleed nipples are simply rounded then it's an easy fix for any competent mechanic. 

I've previously removed badly seized bleed nipples by heating them gently with MAP gas and then hitting them with freezer spray (available cheaply from toolstation). Do that a couple of times to each and the thermal shock cracks the oxidation/corrosion and they back out no bother. 

Also, if you're putting new steel ones back in, use some aluminium grease. Better still, buy titanium ones (they don't rust) and give them a coating of ACF50 grease before refitting. Do this and you'll never have to worry about them again. 

I find most powdercoated finishes quite orange-peeley. However, the powder finish provided by companies that use an automated oven where the wheels go in flat are much better and as flat as a painted OEM finish. There's a company not too far from me that does so. They're called Foz Sports Alloys on Facebook. Check out their work. I realise they're too far for you, but it gives you an idea of the finish achievable. 

Try this company... 

https://fb.watch/pF8QYYUPwv/

12 hours ago, Cocky said:

I've given this wet & forget a try tonight so will take a look tomorrow to see if it's shifted the green. 

Fingers crossed 🤞

It will not work fully  overnight. It's a slow acting but long lasting biocide. Read the instructions. 

I think a way to get the hood 'clean' is to treat it like a carpet or rug - shampoo and careful wet vac until the water runs clear. It is effectively a cloth left out in all weathers.

The mould is a separate issue and a preventative measure like Wet and Forget is good for that. 

Just my tuppence worth. 

I tried the Magnetti Marreli ones and they were no good. They were not two stage, in that, they didn't slow down when coming to a stop and wobbled the frunk.

I ended up buying Stabilus ones and they were perfect. They slow down a few inches before the stop which is much softer and as per factory ones. 

Use Wet and Forget. Readily available from Costco. 

No need to scrub. Just dilute it to the correct strength, brush it on and all the green will dissapear within a few weeks and will stay away for a long time. 

These bolts have now been superseded with 72mm ones. The longer length ones would corrode on the protruding ends in the hub and rip out the threads when removing them. 

If you're re-using the old ones, just chop them down with a grinder, if you have access to one. 

Are you sure you've got the correct bulb. One of the bulbs is 21/4w and not 21/5w as goes into most cars. 

These are the 21/4w ones:

Bosch 566 (P21/4W) Original equipment car light bulbs - 12 V 21/4 W BAZ15d - 2 bulbs https://amzn.eu/d/9Knml79

I would suggest getting Osram ultralife bulbs. Porsche fit long life bulbs as standard but they're not fitted routinely after the originals go. 

Amazon usually sell them. 

Are you sure the tuning fork is tightened up fully where it attaches to the control arm? It is torqued quite high usually. 

1 hour ago, Crudeoink said:

Coming home from dinner last night I was enjoying the wet yet quiet roads when the car didn't quite feel right. I pushed on but slightly more gently and the exhaust started to get more bassy and louder. The link between the Cat and the Catback was loose, 2 bolts completely disappeared and it was only being held in by 1 bolt (no nut). I think the OEM studs have previously been replaced as it has a Carnewal system and the fasteners were A2 bolts. I have secured the exhaust for now with high quality fasteners from my stash but ideally would like to replace with something that A won't corrode from damp & B won't undergo galvanic corrosion. What's the best bet ? High quality stainless bolts with brass or copper nuts ? Or high quality M8 stainless bolts + Nuts ? 

Reluctant to use Ti as it's a bastard to remove if seized and could seize due to dissimilarity of metals ? 

 

 

I prefer stainless bolts with brass nuts. That way you don't get any dissimilar metal  corrosion and you'll always be able to get the brass nut off. If you're worried about vibration loosening them, I would use two brass nuts - the second nut acts like a locking device for the first. 

23 hours ago, 987RG said:

Not today, but yesterday fitted new frunk/bonnet struts (Magneti Marelli part no:430719086800) Porsche part no: 99751155101. Also replaced the headlight candles with Bosch H7 (477) Plus 120 Gigalight Headlight Bulbs - 12 V 55 W PX26d - 2 bulbs.

Overall went well, the frunk now springs up and stays up and the headlights are a bit brighter!

I bought the exact same ones previously for the drunk but found they only have a one-stage valve. In other words, they don't slow the bonnet down and make the bonnet come to a stop softly. They jerk to a hard stop. 

Ended up getting the OE stabilus ones instead. 

My original ones were a perfect match for the original carpet and were the thick type. The replacements are thinner and not same shade of black as the carpet. It's a shame as I wanted the higher quality ones. 

They stopped making the original spec ones and the  various colours after a while and now supply a thinner set in black only. 

Original were approximately 12mm thick. The 'new' ones are 6mm.

The place that does the headlights is a regular bodyshop, albeit they do high-end cars generally and not bangers. 

They sand out any yellowing or damage and then use a high quality two-pack optically clear lacquer on them in a proper spray booth. 

They're called Glasgow Smart Repair Centre and are based in Glasgow. Ironically, they don't do smart repairs! 

They have a Facebook page. 

I haven't had this happen to my car, but, there's a top-end bodyshop near me that refurb these. They basically polish the light and then lacquer them in their oven with a proper two pack one. Lights look super crisp and clear once done. 

3 hours ago, Scubaregs said:

Would you rather sh*g Posh spice or Susan Boyle, bearing in mind Susan Boyle sounds better?

You just made me spit out my tea! 🤣🤣🤣

22 hours ago, Rav said:

Thanks for the continued support friends.

I took the care to LAP911 in Highworth. Luke checked over the car. He heard the harmonica sound. He suggested a new fuel filter and fuel pump, but also advised that it might be a small valve at the bottom of the filler neck. £350 inc vat to fix. I might just live with it. 

The oil leak was a quick fix, some tensioner washer. While there, I was also told that I need new brake discs and pads, Spark plug tubes, brake lines, Front suspension springs and shocks.  I plan to get these done over the autumn.

 

 

That sounds like a bit of a guess to me. Did he check the fuel line pressures via diagnostics tool at all? 

4 hours ago, bally4563 said:

When I changed mine on a 987.1 , jumped in and tested it, thought it wanted bleeding as it was that light!!

What actually makes it go heavy though? Is it the pressure plate fingers that lose their springyness? 

I wonder if they're the original.