Jump to content


Site Contributor
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About NebulaOdyssey

  • Birthday March 24

Previous Fields

  • My Ride
    '06 2.7 Boxster 987

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    London SE

Recent Profile Visitors

2,238 profile views
  1. Thanks for the addition, only had imperial at the time from my pa's tool box.
  2. The links posted above still working for me
  3. Good effort Mark. Post up some pics when your done fitting and installing. As I say my connects2 kit fitted fine wrt the hole size. If anything a tiny bit bigger than I'd liek for a proper flush fit. WRT the cage, I also thought the foam was poor so I used the metal push out for feet and secured some to the sides. This works well for me in the end and the cage was solid. Wooden blocks seem like a reasonable idea too.
  4. I made no modifications to the Connects2 facia kit, the size was correct for the Parrot unit. Are you fitting the same headunit (parrot asteroid smart)? It came with a black surround that can be fitted, however this is not required when using the Connect2 facia, it'll make the headunit too big. Maybe post up a pic? Is the hole in the facia too big or too small?
  5. Just a quick update on the Parrot Asteroid Smart install. It's still great and I'm very happy with it! Like epicsnakehips says the call clarity is great and the response to my voice requests to play music albums or artists or call a contact is by far the best system I've used. Using Torque app with a bluetooth OBD reading is working well for when I use it also. The screen is good for the car. I've not had any issues while driving concerning glare (I have a protector fitted). The volume control is also pretty good when in music or calls as you can just swipe the screen to make adjustments. I would recommend installing the Asteroid Tweaker App found here: http://asteroid.fab-uleux.com/ This allows speed sensitive volume adjustments, auto music start, maximum on volume etc...
  6. 987 online Workshop Manuals... S (987) F6-3.2L (2005) (987) F6-2.7L (2006) S (987) F6-3.4L (2008) (987) F6-2.9L (2010)
  7. Online Workshop Manuals for 986... (986) F6-2.5L (1998) (986) F6-2.7L (2000) S (986) F6-3.2L (2001)
  8. Make sure you have a steady hand and a very clean environment to work in. Good luck too at getting it on first time My first attempt was not the best but actually had some manufacturing faults, the company sent me out a new one FOC (from Germany) and my second attempt was more successful, I learned a lot from the first one though so got real lucky at had manufacturing faults in it. Tips: It will be much easier if you remove your double din from the carMake sure the double din screen it ridiculously cleanStart at one end lining it up at the two corners (to center it up)Slowly peel more backing off your protector as you slowly let is stick down onto your screenUse a credit card covered in a short pile MF towel to aid prevention of bubbles, concentrate on making sure the edges are bubble freeDo not finish at a corner! As you get to the other end drop the final piece down and use the card (covered with MF) to push down the two corners first, finish by pushing out all the other airIt usually looks better the next day (or two) as static (or whatever) helps it fully seal downThat's just in my experience.
  9. I've got a screen protector with some anti glare, I installed before I put the headunit in the car to protect the soft(ish) screen. I read reviews that the reflection was bad though making it difficult to see the screen due to a layer of air between the pixel screen and the touch screen. I've honestly found it okay with the protector on there. If it's dirty with lots of finger marks it is difficult to see when the sun is right on it and behind you with top down, you see lots of smudge reflections, but you can still just make out what is on the screen. If kept clean from finger smudges it's reasonably good at all times. Not sure where you are located Tony, your always welcome a look.
  10. TonyIs this the sort of thing, I am have the bose on a 2003 S and would really like to change to a double din, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hosa-ODL-276A-Digital-Audio-Interface-S-PDIF-Coax-to-S-PDIF-Optical-/230975084974?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item35c73019ae Cheers Tony G Your link is for an spdif to coax (or vice versa) converter. That will not help you with MOST and the Bose system I'm afraid.
  11. - if by bracket you mean the bronze coloured piece and silver flat piece, you do need to attach that bit to the head unit with the larger flat silver piece holding it in place the bronze piece. One goes on each side of the double DIN unit and you can move the bronze bits in or out to adjust how far the radio secures into/flush with the dash. This will secure the head unit into the cage, you then need to use the keys to get it out. Search google images for 'connects2 double din cage assembly' - image 1 and 3 should show this. - yes this will be the new 'normal operation'. The cdr24 used the plug we left disconnected for trigger events like the on signal (I think it provided a sequence of lower voltage pulses). This meant it could be controlled by the cars systems. Now we are simply using an ignition on +12v feed. I guess you could hook it up to a permanent +12v and have either a separate switch somewhere or have to remember to fully turn off your new radio all the time, else you will have a drained battery. You'll get used to ignition on though. Hope that helps.
  12. Thanks. Yes, the xda thread is an interestingly long read. I've not rooted mine or attempted google framework etc... At the moment I've stuck with simply sideloading additional Apps I wanted which suits me fine so far.Also check out an App called Asteroid Tweaker, it transforms the smart unit to act more like an integrated car radio system.
  13. 987 Double DIN Installation (upgrade) NebulaOdyssey on BoXa.net BoXa profile Performed on 2006 987 Boxster with Sound Package Plus (SSP) (Gen 1 or 987.1) NB: Will also work for non SPP but not suitable for Bose systems Tools: 3/16” Allen Key (Hex)Torx T-25Torx T-20Wire Strippers (with crimper)Soldering Iron (with some solder)Very small flat blade screwdriverPhillips and Flat Head screwdrivers Equipment: Double DIN radio unit of your choiceAn ISO DIN wiring harness adapter (if your radio unit didn’t come with one, mine did)Double DIN fascia and cage kit, like CT23PO03Fakra aerial adapter, if new unit requires ISO then a PC5-100Wire (for +12V ignition, <6Amp should be fine @ 12V), 2-3 meters (I bought 10m)1 Spade Crimp Connector (a Blue sized one)1 Inline fuse holder (<6Amp rating again should be fine @ 12V)5Amp Time Delay (slow blow), inline type of courseElectrical tapeSteps: First you will need to remove the old terrible CDR24 unit out of the car. I used this very good guide http://www.planet-9....removal-29.html Next you want to get all the wires prepared ready for the car. This step does involve soldering, so take all the precautionary measures required to prevent yourself or others from getting injured and make sure you work in a well ventilated area. With the SPP you will have an ASK amplifier in the front that needs an ignition on signal, as will the new radio unit. If you do not have SPP your new radio will still need an ignition on signal, but you won’t need to move the pin in the ISO harness. The following is performed on the harness adapter not the car’s harness. Remove Pin 4 from the ISO adapter (red wire) by inserting a small flat blade screwdriver and pushing on the tab that holds the pin in place whilst gently pulling on the red wire. Your red wire may have bullet connectors, if so disconnect them as it makes the next steps easier, if not then it doesn’t matter. Measure, by dry fitting, your ignition on wire from your radio bay around the drivers foot well to the fuse box (leave some extra as you can tuck it away). Strip some wire and solder one end to the removed ISO adapter Pin (red wire Pin). Once done use some electrical tape to secure the base of the wires together. On the other end strip and solder one half of the fuse holder (the smaller half). Cut another short length of wire and strip both ends, then solder the other half of the fuse holder to one end (larger half) and crimp the spade connector to the other end. Now you need to put the Pin back into the ISO harness, make sure you put this in to Pin slot 2, which equates to the ASK remote on slot on the car. You can put it back into Pin slot 4 if you have no SPP. If you have the bullet connectors, you can now connect them back up, yellow arrows. The speaker wires are all okay as they are, so no changes required. Check to make sure your new Double DIN radio provides either an aerial out or remote out to Pin slot 5 on the ISO harness, if not move your radio’s aerial power out to Pin slot 5. This is the power on, needed for the car’s powered antenna. Now route the ignition on wire around the driver’s foot well to the fuse box from the back of the centre console radio bay. Next get all the other ancillary wires into place. This includes any media wires for iPod/iPhone, USB and AUX Jack and the GPS unit. I think the best place for the GPS module is under the black plastic at the base of the window wipers. Open your front boot and remove the battery cover. Now push your GPS wire through the rubber grommet just to the left of the battery, it has an X cut in it. You only need to push a few inches few at first. The red arrow shows the grommet and the orange shows where I placed the GPS module. Stick you GPS module into place. Clean the area with alcohol and use a double sided sticky pad. Now climb into the driver’s foot well and take a look up towards the windscreen near the centre of the console where you might expect the grommet to be (front firewall). Grab the wire and have someone else feed more through as your route it down into the foot well (with one person you can push pull push pull etc...). Route the wire under the carpet and up into the back of the centre console to the radio bay. There are two Velcro tabs holding the carpet in place, simply remove and stick back. Whilst here tuck in your ignition cable up to the fuse box. Fit your aerial adapter to the car’s Fakra connector. Route your media/iPod/iPhone cables to the glovebox (or elsewhere, see end). To remove the glovebox in order to install these wires see my How To – Remove 987 Glovebox write up. The last thing is to install the mic. Install this where you like, I chose to have it above the rear view mirror, the wire is routed down the driver’s side pillar. All wires should now be routed. The following picture shows all the existing connectors on the car for information and installation purposes. Tidy up the ignition wire at the fuse box. Remove the fuse box cover and the three screws holding the box in place. The carpet and box should simply pull off (careful near the bottom), you may need to take out your floor mat. Route your ignition wire. Hopefully the small half of your inline fuse holder (from harness) fits through the bottom right slot in the fuse box; push it through from the back. Insert the spade into a vacant fuse slot that would be switched with minimum 5Amp (check your fuse map on the piece of paper on the back of the fuse cover). You can see the one I used. It needs to be the bottom pin of the fuse slot. If the fuse holder doesn’t fit you’ll have to route the spade through the fuse box slot and have the holder behind the carpet. Next, fit the cage that came with the CT23PO03 fascia kit. Test fit your radio to see how well it fits and to check the wiring is all okay. The foam pads with the fascia kit are pretty poor at holding the cage in a vertical position; however put one on the top and one on the bottom of the cage, although it should be very tight horizontally. Use a sturdy flat blade screwdriver to push out some of the side prongs of the cage to stop it being pulled out and use two at the top and bottom to act as ‘feet’ to hold the cage vertically in place. Make sure these will not foul the clips on the fascia plate. Test fit the fascia with the radio to make sure it’s all centrally aligned and pad up the bottom of the cage a little to centre the radio in relation to the fascia. This took one or two attempts. I also found that by giving the cage ‘feet’ it and made it more solid and also held the fascia in place better. Make sure everything is working as it should, then re-install the side panels to the centre console as well as the back panel pieces. DONE Result: Other Resources: CDR24 pinout as guidance on the 987’s harness, http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/88-ELEC-Radio_Install/CDR_24_Pinout.pdf. MOST HUR wiring guide for Kenwood Alpine units http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/997/318496-diy-tip-nav-tv-hur-997-wiring-guide-helper.html (Thanks to Tony Daniel) MOST HUR information and install http://www.planet-9.com/987-cayman-boxster-electronics/56234-latest-head-unit-replacement-avic-120bt.html (Thanks to Tony Daniel) Centre console (gear stick handbrake section) removal for alternate routing of media wires http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/diy-submission-forum/696896-9x7-1-center-console-removal-shifter-removal.html (Thanks to Tony Daniel) Here is a PDF download, Click Here.
  14. Glovebox Removal - Performed on 2006 987 Boxster (Gen 1 or 987.1)NebulaOdyssey on BoXa.net BoXa profile Tools: 5/32” Allen Key (Hex)Torx T-25Torx T-20Old credit/debit/loyalty type card Steps: First you will need to remove the left side panel of the centre console. Use this guide if you need help with this step http://www.planet-9....removal-29.html Next, remove the cup holder. This has two hex screws visible from underneath when the glovebox is in the open position. I used an Allen Key as there is not much vertical height to fit a tool. Behind the cup holder there are two torx screws. Then down the right hand edge of the glovebox there are three more torx screws. Underneath the glovebox remove the black foam type covering, which has five plastic screw fittings (flat head or use a plastic card). Then while underneath, on the right hand side of the glovebox there is another torx screw. On the left hand side of the glove box, open the car door and pull off the black door seal near the glovebox section. Now remove the plastic insert by placing a card underneath and pulling away from the car, i.e. towards the open door. Once loose it pivots out. Here are the two clips holding it on, It pivots on the other end. Then you will be able to see and remove the two torx screws. One last screw is hiding behind the dash panel to the left of the glovebox. Looking straight on, wrap your fingers underneath the bottom and give it a tug straight out towards the back of the car. Once the bottom is loose give the top a little pull away from the front and it should come off easily. Behind here is the last torx screw to remove. Finally, with the glovebox door open pull the whole thing towards the back of the car, it may drop so support it. Now the glovebox can be lowered while being careful of any wires from the light and OBD II socket as I think these are attached. DONE! Reinstallation: Installation is the reverse of removal. The glovebox does need a little wiggling to locate it back into position. There are a few lugs to locate it all properly. Here is a PDF download, Click Here
  15. New parrot installed DD

  • Create New...