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witko999

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Posts posted by witko999

  1. I used to have one.  Map sums it up pretty well above.

    It takes about 20 minutes+ to fit which makes it a pain to use.  I don't like the design of the parts that attach to the A-post.  They push through the seal making a gap, and are a recipe for scratches if you aren't very careful fitting and removing them.  You can leave these parts on permanently but they will make a bit of wind noise and look a bit odd.

    The B-post mounts are easy to fit, then the big side pieces can be fitted.  This is really a 2 man job otherwise you risk scratching your paint whilst you fiddle bolts in and hold the part at the same time.  After this, the cross rails can be fitted which is easy enough, albeit time consuming.

    Once fitted, it makes significant wind noise, even at fairly moderate speeds.  You get used to this but when you take it off again you really notice.

    In the end, after 5 years of owning my Boxster and struggling with both the RTS and later a Bird bike rack, I took the easy option and sold it, to be replaced with a Volvo V70.  Obviously this is a true sports machine with 140bhp from its 2.4 litres.  It does fit a hell of a lot inside though!

    IMG_20170626_150242.jpg

  2. 2 hours ago, mvw said:

    Tell us more, did you do a thread on it?  Interested in doing this myself, but thought the kits were hard to get hold of an now too expensive.

    I bought a PSE switch to go on the RH side of the radio.  I bought P/N 996.613.987.10 A05 which should have been correct according to the tech information bulletin I have, but actually it would've had to be installed upside down to 'match' the orientation of the blank switches I have (I solved this by turning my blanks over).  I think the 'correct' number for the switch RH side of the radio is 996.613.988.10 A05.

    I then unscrewed the fuse box and relay box behind it in the drivers footwell, and wired the switch with the 4 required wires as per the attached diagram.  All I needed was the wire, 4 female spade connectors to attach to the switch, 1 thin female spade connector to go to BS 5/2, and 2 'clip in' type female spade connectors to go into the PSE relay socket.  The connection to fuse B10 was done by stripping the wire insulation and piggy backing (soldering) the wire already attached to B10.

    Also required is PSE relay 996.618.980.03, which is £106ish from the OPC (slightly cheaper from german ebay).  My car had the '02' version which is not compatible with the switch.  The switch was about £35.

    The rest of the PSE electronics were already fitted to my car at the same time as the PSE.

    Oh and I also desoldered one of the diodes inside the new PSE relay.  This stops the PSE from automatically going into quiet mode at certain speeds.  It's now controlled only by the switch.

    I can give more detailed info if you want.  It's actually pretty easy if you know exactly what to do.

     

    pse.gif

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