MikeT999

Regarding the seals, I bought this selection box from CoolPartsUK on ebay...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283015067060

Worked out cheaper than from Porsche as I was doing the long pipes under the sill as well as the condensors.

Hth

Mike.

Yes, I did mine DIY too. I also replaced the condensers while I was on, from Coolpartsuk on ebay - I also bought a selection pack of O rings from them, which worked out cheaper than OPC. I replaced the thinner pipe too, as they corrode behind the brackets I figured the thin pipe wouldn't be that far behind. (My job was caused by corrosion of the pipe, not being crushed)

I did mine in the garage - it's doable, but quite fiddly. The biggest problem I had was the rear flange joint in front of the rear wheel - galvanic corrosion meant I had to carefully cut the flange off with a dremel.

I also had a mobile chap come out, as I wanted to be able to check for leaks with the bumper off etc.

Hope this helps,

Mike.

I've recently gone through the job of replacing both of those pipes - the bigger one is unfortunately the more involved of the 2 to replace, as it weaves up in the wheel arch and by the petrol filler (part number 6 in Andy's diagram above). It's doable on axle stands though.

You might find that the source of your leak is corrosion around the mounting bracket area. Have a look for signs of damp in the area - that's where mine were. The larger pipe was around 150 +vat from Wolves OPC.

I documented most of what I did here, if it helps...

Cheers,

Mike.

From the Owatrol website, faq section on Polytrol...

Is POLYTROL suitable to renovate tarnished headlights?

Doesn't sound promising - there's other products available as Topbox says

Ooh, I like that idea!

The trouble with my suggestion of the bonded studs above as ½cwt points out is the need to key back to bare metal, which I'm not keen on doing - unless someone knows of an adhesive more suitable. 

I have a Rivnut tool already, I might end up drilling them out and inserting Rivnuts yet, with a stainless bolt and penny washers. There's only 2 that have gone, so it's not a major issue at the moment.

Cheers,

Mike.

I was thinking of maybe using something like this...

https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/big-head-fixing-m6-x-25-pack-of-5?gclid=Cj0KCQiA_c-OBhDFARIsAIFg3ez_fsCXsAMAPJvSijGDNrSFu-ICwnHm_c02X7Xffv1oGn6bw_YKLZ0aAsXTEALw_wcB

For areas where you're not sure what's behind where you're drilling for a rivnut. Nut sure what you'd bond them with yet though...

Mike.

27 minutes ago, TROOPER88 said:

If they are standard 986 wheels then they will fit

Thanks mate - I'm told they were from a 996, but not sure if it was an S, or whether that even matters tbh
 

17 minutes ago, fizz said:

My S comes with 17" from factory. You will be fine mate. 

Good news, thanks mate

....

I think on balance they should be ok - if not I'll try and sell them on.  The tyres are not up to much, but ok for what I want them ok

Cheers,

Mike.

Evening all,

Hopefully this is a quick question, but I'm about to buy a set of spare wheels to stand my car on while I get my wheels refurbished.  They're 17inch, as pictured below - will they fit, given that the callipers on the 'S' are bigger than the none 'S' ?

I think the 986 S was fitted with 17's as standard, but can't be sure tbh.

Many thanks for any advice

Cheers,

Mike.

The bolts were seized in place when I tried to remove mine - galvanic corrosion between the steel / aluminium. They sheared off so I drilled them out and used a nyloc nut and bolt instead.

If you scroll down here you see what I mean... 

Cheers, Mike.

Washed and cleaned glass ready for the morning, and also treated the plastics with the sample tin of Owatrol someone recommended on here.  Looks good, smells like varnish!

Cleared out a half-clogged drivers side washer jet, and replaced the dampers / rams on the bonnet - no more getting bashed on the head! 🤕

That looks a lot tidier - well worth doing if only to remove the muck from behind.

8 hours ago, Grizzlee said:

I went for the cheap and cheerful approach as the OE resistor is £115 + vat on Design 911 and requires removal of the fan to fit.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B008MLL3JQ/ref=pe_3187911_189395841_TE_3p_dp_1

It's a little fiddly but no too bad, essentially the 3 wires are Green, Green/White and White. Solder the Green/White and White cables to one end of the resistor and the solid Green to the other.

It even fits in one of the original clips

Excellent - thanks for that!

I take it that it doesn't matter which side you connect to which?

Cheers,

Mike.

5 hours ago, Grizzlee said:

Also replaced a defective fan resistor, so now both fans work in low and high speeds. 

Hi - do you have a link to what you ordered?  This is a job I have to get done too.

Cheers,

Mike.

On 6/12/2018 at 10:44 AM, Saxosim said:

Fitted a replacement fuel cap, lanyard and plastic rivet to replace the potentially faulty old cap due to a slight fuel smell after driving for a bit.  Suprisingly only £9.50 from OPC so worth a try for that price!

Hi - did the new cap sort the fuel smell?

Cheers,

Mike.

Mine passed its MOT this morning, with no advisories

The MOT man was quite complimentary in fact, expecially with how clean it was underneath - I spent quite a bit of time with the wheels off a couple of months back.

Cheers,

Mike.