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    2004 986 S

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    Land of Milk'n'Beans

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  1. Got mine on last week, as the suspension is slightly tired it has made a discernible difference and is allowing the Michelin PS4's to really dig in. Nice to have a low cost mod that actually has an effect.
  2. Any claim will be recorded on the MIB database so needs to be declared for ALL insurances. If the Boxster is a second car consider what a claim would do to any other insured vehicles costs and weigh it up as a total. Protected no claims just reduces the overall costs but you still have a claim so it will raise the premium.
  3. I got a new one from the bay of evil linky
  4. Cheers ,always quite satisfying when you achieve something, no matter how small.
  5. This is for my 2004 986 with active amp (MOST) So I've just upgraded my CDR 23 to a (Chinese EONON) double din Android unit. I wanted to keep it simple so retain the factory amplifier and speakers for now. The factory system uses the MOST fibre optic to transfer audio so there are no ISO connections from the factory head unit for audio. Now there are a number of videos on YOUTUBE etc of how to modify the radio frame and fit a unit but I'll describe what i did here and if anyone wants any info or pictures I'll post them up or send them via email. First thing is you will need a fibre optic to analogue converter box, this sort of thing, although shown for Merc its exactly the same, the one below is listed for Porsche but includes P Tax https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fibre-Optic-Adaptor-Box-Amp-Amplifier-Decoder-for-Mercedes-Benz-ML-GL-R-Class/153514798436?hash=item23be31ed64:g:qNoAAOSwiZddSoYC https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fibre-Optic-Amp-MOST-Decoder-Adaptor-For-Porsche-Boxster-Cayman-987-2005-2012/182678779836?hash=item2a8880f7bc:g:wdsAAOSwOzZZcdmC So you plug the MOST connection that goes in the factory head unit into the converter. Wiring wise B+ is permanent live, GRND is , well ground ( -ve) and ACC goes to the amp wire on the new stereo. Connect the FRONT RCA out from the new stereo to the RCA leads on the converter. If you use the rear output you will not be able to here your phone on bluetooth or Carplay, ask me how i found that out ........ https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Add-A-Circuit-Fuse-Tap-Piggy-Back-Standard-Blade-Fuse-Holder-10A-Blade-Fuse-GL-/302847053113?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10 You will need to fit a switched live 12v +ve for the new stereo. I used a 90 degree tailed piggy back fuse to slot E1 as the head unit trigger only needs up to 5 amps and should have an in line fuse anyway. I managed to get a connector for the iso socket and wired it in. You can feed from any switched fuse and do not worry about the amperage as its all 12v draw and the twoo fuses are on separate contacts within the piggy back. This is the factory ISO connector with the switched 12v +ve fitted. the wires above are: large Red/Black perm 12v +ve, large brown Earth (-ve), white (actually looks greyish in the picture) next to the switched live < this wire connects to the new stereo antenna feed. The Blue/Black and Pink/Grey are phone mute and vehicle speed wires which aren't used on my car as its stereo was bog basic . The yellow mini ISO which was in my factory unit is unused after market so leave it unplugged My new head unit has GPS, wi-fi and DAB+ , so i fitted the GPS receiver under the front plastic scuttle mounted on compound foam and fed the lead through the big rubber grommet the factory wiring uses. The wifi antenna is fitted to the A-pillar near where I have mounted the sceen DAB aerial. I also fitted one of the usb cables into a blank dash switch to run my phone/CarPlay. I routed an external mic for the phone functions into the dash pod where the factory mic blank is. Other stuff you will need: Double DIN fascia fitting kit, something like this insulation tape, soldering iron pliers, pry tools, some basic car electrics knowledge or understanding, multi meter, high pain threshold for all the sharp metal edges you'll find under the dash. Stuff I learned doing this: Chinese head units are just over double din size at the front screen body, meaning I had to do some re-modelling of the surround I bought (which wasn't the one pictured above unfortunately). Proper brands are the right size but much pricier. Fitting stuff without instructions tests my patience. Porsche clips and plastic tabs are sturdier than most but can still be broken through ham fisted mingebaggery. Take your time , I did this over a couple of days during the Zombie apocalypse so was able to walk away when things had me ' a bit tense' 😠 There are hundreds of really sharp metal edges under the dashboard. Anything after market is way better than the factory . I made the PORSCHE logo, proper Blue Peter effort ! (If anyone has a storage bin and wants to swap for the CD storage in the picture or sell let me know. It needs to be from that location not the lower one where I've relocated the HVAC controls to ) The result Thanks for looking.
  6. RAC using Tesco vouchers, luckily I drink lots of beer so get lots of Clubcard points 🍺
  7. Can't imagine your moving to a higher risk area than SE London by moving out so must be down to circ's.
  8. Doesn't pay to stay loyal in my experience. It also appears that the comparison sites are the best way to go. Just re-insured my bike after the written quote came through at nearly £200, £80 quid more than last year with a years extra NCB. went on Confused.Com and got a quote at last years cost with addition of pillion cover from the same broker! Phoned them explained and they matched it which means they don't pay the search site fee and the call taker earns a tenner. My cars are with Sheilas Wheels (eSure) on a multi car and they consistently come up with great prices for the fleet allowing NCB discount on all three cars.
  9. My mates wife has one, goes like a stabbed rat but it looks like she crashed it through the tat section of Halfrauds.....
  10. Spoke to a friend in that line of work and this is the gist of what he said; Yes that is indeed the case it is legally a reportable collision, but that still wouldn't interest the police as they have exchanged details. Not stopping as she didn't believe any damage was done would be likely be accepted as she based it on her own mirror being ok according the post. As for her not stopping; There is the supposition on her part that he was speeding and was the main cause of the 'collision' and therefore the one at fault , however she did not have damage to her vehicle in her estimation therefore no reportable collision to her mind. (see below for what constitutes reportable collision) Yes they both should have stopped, but she didn't and then the pursuit ensued. It is likely in the circumstances given, whether completely accurate or not, even if the police had been nearby and arrived on scene as they had the 'altercation' they would likely have checked vehicle and driver details, breathalysed both drivers, issued producers and ensured they exchanged details and left it to insurance to sort unless he and his passenger were actually committing offences in front of them. The exchange of details should include by law, insurance details but it is accepted practice that as long as name , address and contact details are exchanged in minor road Traffic Collision (RTC) that is acceptable as long as there are no other factors such as allegations of careless or dangerous driving, which would require independent witnesses to corroborate. He said from a point of practicality that as no injury or major damage was resultant that generally minor RTC like this if 'phoned in, it would be advice given by a call operator to exchange details of name address and insurance unless allegations of something more serious were made, even then it would probably be a local mobile not Roads Policing attending. Apparently very few 'damage only' RTC's are ever attended by police as in his words "There are very few RP units and the locals are too busy dealing with kids stabbing each other, missing vulnerable people and a hundred other things" A Derbyshire Police information site give this guidance: The law defines a reportable road traffic collision as an accident involving a mechanically-propelled vehicle on a road or other public area which causes: Injury or damage to anybody - other than the driver of that vehicle, Injury or damage to an animal - other than one being carried on that vehicle (an animal is classed as a horse, cattle, ass, mule, sheep, pig, goat or dog). Damage to a vehicle - other than the vehicle which caused the accident. Damage to property constructed on, affixed to, growing in, or otherwise forming part of the land where the road is. If they take place in a public place the police can investigate off-road collisions, for example, collisions in car parks, which, because they are open to the public, are deemed public places.
  11. Phone 101 or visit a local nick (if it hasn't been sold to a housing developer!) and report the aggressive behaviour and any threatening calls (record any more you get and save any texts). By law in such incidents the only legal requirement is to stop and exchange details, name/ address. The fact she didn't stop immediately isn't necessarily relevant in the circumstances. With regard to the collision the police will not be interested if legal requirements are met unless allegations of careless/dangerous driving etc are made. Their/His behaviour may constitute a number of offences but again its all about witnesses. Keep any texts and record any phone calls. You could calmly explain that she did not stop immediately due to the shock but that insurers will go knock for knock and everyone will have a collision record, loss of NCD etc, so as an act of good faith, without any admission of fault and in full and final settlement you offer £XX amount or we go through insurance who will fleece both sides. Personally I would tell him to go and get *^&$£d and if he makes threats to my wife again he'll have more that a broken wing mirror to concern him, but then I'm not very subtle.
  12. This is my own DIY for the factory child seat airbag deactivation bar 'seat belt' buckle ONLY , as used in Porsche 986 (996) . Not applicable to 987 (997) WARNING A. Following item contains tight fisted mingebaggery of the finest quality B. If you do this it is at your own risk and I take no responsibility for any issues you may encounter, however it is a buckle to activate a switch and has no restraint duties! Therfore this is for information only C. The air bag system is a safety item and if you have any doubts about the following- don't do it. The CHILD SEAT OCCUPANCY coding has to be activated in any of the options below if not already done. My Boxster had the CHILD SEAT OCCUPANCY bar fitted , and coding done. To use a child seat there a number of options; 1. Buy a very expensive Porsche child seat with the relevant buckle fixture 2. Buy a knackered Porsche seat for slightly less and cut the buckle off 3. Buy or build a delete switch and plug it in https://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/9658-air-bag-deactivation/#entry47052 OR this style as offered on ebay sold new and used, (used) here 4. Consider doing a DIY buckle DIY buckle - Parts and tools I bought a VAG style buckle at a cost of £2.99 from the bay of evil like this or take one of a breaker at the scrappy for £1. they are a standard design used in many manufacturers cars with 'blade' measurements of about 21.5mm (22mm nominal) width at the narrower clip in portion, 38mm length from the plastic T, and 3mm in thickness. Using a cutting disc I made a cut in the centre end of the buckle 'blade' 3.5mm wide Using a grinding disc I took 1.25mm off both edges of the buckle blade for a distance of 20mm from the now cut end, gives a 19mm width I rounded the 'fork' ends to resemble the OE buckle as shown in the Pelican Parts article. Every edge was smoothed with 600 grit w&d. Now this worked perfectly in my car but there are no guarantees and you may have to fettle slightly especially as i suspect the ebay buckles are made east of Ipswich. Plainly the mark2 will be done with a little more finesse and finish ?
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