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Shazbot

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Posts posted by Shazbot

  1. When you do get them off, throw them in the bin, utterly pointless in this day and age. They'll steal the car by burglary if they're that keen.

    There are some places on ebay that will supply locking bolts by picture not sure if any do Porsche ones.

    Somewhere like this, the keys are generic so not just Porsche https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275754663125?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=EAIaIQobChMIwKG4ydXX_wIVxuvtCh0JaQ9PEAQYBSABEgLXyvD_BwE

    Go to a decent tyre place having bought 4 new porsche bolts and get the to remove tham i suspect a lot cheaper than going to a porsche place and buying a locking bolt key.

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  2. I used a VAG part with absolutely no issues. The module is the same as Audi TTmk1 (model code 8N), Porsche actually quote the VAG part number in the e-katalog but charge over twice as much to put it in Porsche packaging. If you don't want to buy aftermarket try a VW dealer as it will be slightly cheaper. They are all made in China these days anyway.

    Part number 8N2837016B

    • Thanks 1
  3. I fitted 48mm motorcycle baffles into my cheap (Toyosport) box. I used a cobalt bit to drill access holes to the 'inner' pipe in the end pipes and loctited the baffle screws in place. Never come loose but still removable for maintenence as i wrapped them with exhaust baffle cloth (fibreglass).

    As it has very little in the way of internal baffling, fitting these means it still flows better than the standard box. As for this hurting the engine that is utter bollerx. Someone just wants to sell a really expensive back box. Now if you shoved bananas up a standard box , that would hurt the engine :)

  4. Check that the furrule (the silvery crimped metal collar) isnt falling apart. They rot away. I found mine was falling apart  so peeled it off and fitted two good quality worm drive (jubilee) clips, one above and one below the 'bead'  of the pipe where the ferrule clamps it. I did this as it was the low pressure side so a return line in effect. I think that is your return line in the picture.

    If you go new hose they are very very   expensive if Porsche still do them. So a proper job would be to remove that pipe, take it to a hydraulic hose place and they can fit a new ferrule, not a difficult job but time consuming and access is tight.

  5. Usually super unleaded , mainly of the Tesco variety although I'll use any brand Super Unleaded. Esso Synergy Supreme+ unleaded is actually E free  in most areas of the mainland.

    E10 is obviously usable in our cars but ethanol is less calorific than petrol so the more they put in the less energy it puts out when burned so higher consumption.

    Keep it dead dinosaurs where possible!

  6. I fitted a relay with a beeper, still don't always hear it due to being tucked away under the end of the dash and playing the likes of  Lamb Of God too loud but has saved me a few times around town from making people in junctions thinking im turning in and them pulling out.

  7. When my heater matrix was playing up there was no smell and the window steamed up really quickly. Turned out the matrix had a small hole and the coolant was causing the steam by pooling under the matrix. i used to get what looked like smoke (steam) out of the centre dash vents occasionally which was very unsettling.

    Once I changed the matrix it was all good.

  8. According to the Bentley manual Super DOT4 is standard spec. It has a higher boiling point than DOT 4 but is compatible with DOT4 if that has been used to top up. They are poly-glycol based .

    Unless you hoon everywhere or do track days it will be fine.

    Dot 5 is silicone based and needs the whole system to be purged as it is incompatible with Glycol based fluids. It doesn't take on water like glycol based and has a high boiling point.

    Dot 5.1 IS compatible with glycol based fluids but has higher boiling point than DOT4 .

    https://ebcbrakes.com/products/brake-fluids/#discover

     

  9. Hi, haven't checked for the engine number , haven't been in/under the engine bay recently. When I did the clutch I removed the IMSB cover and the bearing is fitted 'inside' the casings.

    The IMSB is mounted on a larger diameter shaft secured with a 22mm nut. Larger bearing is retained in the engine casings so does not come out without splitting the crank cases. The IMSB cover also has a different part number. I seem to remember I took a picture ro two at the time. I'll see if i can find them.

    I will have a look next time in in the guts of it but engine number is no guarantee of bearing type as we know.

  10. When i replaced the b'stard drop links i put copperslip on the non threaded  part that sits inside the ally hub so next time i don't hammer my fingers when i miss the drift !

  11. My '04 had the larger IMSB as used on the early 987 3.2. I had bought all the bits and an IMSB kit from the states made tools to do and when I did the clutch found the larger bearing in place. My car is on 105k and doing fine.

    I think the whole IMSB thing has become internet 'fact' . It would appear that most that are affected have been under driven and the bearing goes fairly early in the life of the engine.

    There doesn't appear to be any particular pattern to the few (in real terms) that have gone.

    Buy it, drive it , enjoy.

  12. Door lock modules are VAG stuff and suffer the same dried out non-lead solder on micro switches.

    I've had no issues with the aftermarket Audi TT mk 1 module i bought and fitted for £30 off the bay of evil. Mine is an '04 so uses the same part number as the Audi, because its the same..............

  13. Bosch ones are only £50 each if you search the bay of evil. I bought new 5 year guaranteed Bosch ones there and they are performing well.

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