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golfprorich

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Posts posted by golfprorich

  1. How handy are you with the spanners? I wouldn't about the oil misting between engine an box, if it starts to drip then consider doing it. Other than that the remaining things are all DIY-able. If not I believe EPorsche are up your way. Brakes all round will be a quarter of OPC prices if not less. Aircon condensor...leaving it won't increase costs, you'll have to get the remaining gas professionally removed anyway 👍

  2. 52 minutes ago, Natplant said:

    Would I not need a new pin if I cut it? 

    You would but a £12 kit from GSF is a lot cheaper than a caliper 👍🏻👍🏻

  3. Don't go at it too much with a big hammer, I've known people to chunk the caliper and you'll then be really peed off!

    I did the rears on my Cayenne a couple weeks ago, offside came out easy, nearside was seized. To avoid the risk of caliper damage I cut out a small section of the pin and then it tapped out easy. The extra couple of minutes cutting the pin saved a whole world of grief and expense 👍🏻

  4. Depends where exactly you are and what your definition of reasonable is.....however the only place I've taken my cars to is Precision Porsche in Sheffield Park and I trust them implicitly. I do 99% of work in my workshop but use Precision for MoTs and parts. 

    If that's too far there's a place in Crowborough owned by a Porsche tech that gets spoke highly of, but I can't for the life of me remember what it's called. I'll update the post when I do!

  5. 19 minutes ago, Araf said:

    If your problem is clearance between jack and car before lifting, have you tried driving onto a couple of planks of wood, to raise the front, so you can get the jack under the car? :unsure: 

    This and then use a jacking beam to raise it evenly 

  6. The induction side of the 986 can be improved by the 987 airbox which is slightly larger. But as far as getting air to it other than cutting a big hole in NSR wing I think what Porsche have done is best - anything else would offer little or no benefit. If you want a little more noise then de-snorkel it :) 

  7. Good result. 

    Couple of years ago a Zafira we bought started getting the whiny noise so commonly associated with M32 box a couple months after buying. Dealer and warranty company tried to palm me off but it only took one correctly worded letter for them to roll over and pay full cost. 

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  8. 1 hour ago, K.I.T.T. said:

    Peak power means nothing.

    What's important is the area under the curve - torque defines this.

    This is true, my diesel Mondeo is a fraction over 200bhp but has 400nm of torque. It's noticeably stronger out of bends than my S was 👍🏻

  9. Take a look at the Autel range. I have one and it can do all the same as the icarsoft plus covers dozens of other marques. I've used mine on so many different cars 👍🏻

    On my drive I have Porsche, Ford and Nissan and it's been used on all of them. 

  10. 10 hours ago, ½cwt said:

    Its possibly urban legend, but in maintenance management there's stats that say 90% of failures are recorded immediately after maintenance....

    It wouldn't surprise. A recent-ish issue with my Cayenne was because of such thing!

  11. The 'play' in the flywheel can be measured once the clutch is off to see if it is within tolerance. Then you can decide if it warrants replacement. 

    The laymans way to check flywheel condition is to have the car on idle and gently push the clutch pedal until you get about where the biting point is. A worn flywheel will now be rattling. I check by using my hand to push the clutch pedal down as you'll feel any vibrations much easier. 

    If you get a garage to do it they shouldn't charge any more labour, it's a two minute job to swap flywheels once the clutch is off. 

    Not sure of price on 987 flywheels, probably 250-300 quid as an educated guess 

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