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About Jonttt

  • Birthday November 10

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    Toys : 2011 Boxster Black Edition : ex 2014 Boxster GTS : 1997 993 Carrera 4S

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  1. As per my post above for a 987 relevant it air con it can : AC (Air Condition)*# - Air distribution bottom button - Air distribution centre button - Air distribution top button - Auto button - Button for left seat heating - Button for right seat heating - CAN compressor shutdown - Compressor request - Compressor run-in phase ended - Compressor status - Defrost button - ECO button - Engine running signal - Fan plus button - Heated rear window button - Re circuit Air button - RPM increase - RPM decrease - Seat ventilation button, left - Seat ventilation button, right - Temperature decrease button - Temperature increase button - CAN ambient temperature - Intake temperature - Inside temperature - Outlet temperature - CAN engine temperature - Temperature mixing flap, nominal - Temperature mixing flap, actual - Central flap, nominal - Central flap, actual - Footwell/defroster flap, nominal - Footwell/defroster flap, actual - Outside air/re circuit air flap, nominal - Outside air/re circuit air flap, actual - Activation voltage fresh air fan - Supply Voltage terminal 30 - Sensor supply voltage (5V) - CAN vehicle speed - CAN engine speed - Sun intensity - Refrigerant pressure - Inside sensor fan speed - Compressor current - Compressor activation - Compressor speed - Compressor load moment - Evaporator temperature which is pretty comprehensive BUT you have to remember its a diagnostic tool and with some systems such as the Climate system you also need a working knowledge of how to use gather diagnostic to narrow down the likely fault eg if its a leaking evaporator which should show, condenser what would show, compressor, joint failure......etc......as my mechanics says to me ...it can lead you so far but sometimes you need experience to know what its telling you........the hope is that there are people on forums with that experience so yes it will help so far but sometimes you need to put your results up and let other people advise what it likely means...........in effect you pay an Indy for both the equipment to test (which this can do a lot of) AND the experience to know what it means ;-).........
  2. Ps the electrical connector with the orange “lever” .....make sure this is 100% in properly before refitting they door card.....you can think the lever has pulled it home and it hasn’t.....best to check windows are working before refitting the door card .... ......re the membrane if your not used to removing these then mark the Torx screw holes before you remove the screws with some red touch up paint...saves a lot of head scratching when you come to fit the screws back as there are a lot of other holes .......... ...you need to make sure the poppers have “reprimed” before refitting the door card, usually one or two have not (they should reset when you pull the door card off but not always) ie they have an “open” and “closed” position
  3. The poppers in the lower 3rd form part of the waterproof membrane .....the usual cause of “wet door carpet” is either someone poked a trim removal tool in too far when removing the door card and compromised the sticky strip water barrier or a lower popper was not reset and reseated properly when the door card was refitted.........nb externals water running down the window “sits” in the lower few inches of the aluminium inner membrane so its the poppers lower than that level and sticky strip that need to be watertight, you get away with it not being higher up...... A new aluminium membrane is c£200 from an OPC but you can just use a strip of Butyl “tape” (which is used to fit car windows) if the sticky strip has been compromised. I always remove the door cards from the bottom rear corner, you can get a large trim under there, lever to get 4 fingers under and give it good yank to free that corner, the other poppers come away relatively easy then 😉
  4. Nb re disconnecting the battery, I refer to the Negative terminal to be disconnected which is correct (ie the recommended terminal to remove first) so ignore the fact I disconnected the +ve in the Picture 😉
  5. Extracted from my 987.2 journal for ease of reference...... Replacing the Door Lock Actuator unit on a 9x7.2 BACKGROUND Occasionally I had noticed that the window returned to the fully up position when the door handles where released which means the control unit does not realise the door is still open........a replacement requires a door strip down and although fiddly to get at the control unit in the door skin it is a DIY.....unfortunately unlike the microswitches in the door handles these are not separate in the door lock unit and so you have to buy the entire unit (Edit: there are some posts on the internet of people repairing the units where broken solder joints are the problem).......The Official replacement part from Porsche is >£250..........but there are internet posts suggesting they are actually a standard VW part but listed for all VW Audi cars except Porsche.......given I can get the VW part for c£15 I thought I would take the risk lol.......if I end up needing to fit it and it does not fit I can always then revert to Porsche...... The official Porsche part for a 997.2 / 987.2 drivers side door is 3D2 837 016 A bit of research shows the much cheaper than OEM VAG parts as: VAG Door Lock Module Part Numbers These parts seem to be common between all VAG vehicles (VW, Skoda, Audi, etc) Front Doors: 3D2 837 016 - Front Driver's Side/OSF 3D2 837 015 - Front Passenger's Side/NSF Rear Doors: 7L0 839 016 - Rear Driver's Side/OSR 7L0 839 015 - Rear Passenger's Side/NSR I bought an Ebay part listed as "Front Right /Driver Side Door Lock Actuator For VW Golf Mk5 2003-2009 3D2837016" This cost me £15.50 delivered.....fingers crossed For ease of reference here is the diagnostic to understand which microswitch is causing problems .... DOOR MICROSWITHES There are seven microswitches in each door which control the alarm system. Two are separate switches: a) One on the outside door handle. This switch is used to sense that the handle is lifted. b) One on the inside door handle, which has the same function. When the car is unlocked and either handle is lifted, this signals the alarm control module (ACM) to lower the appropriate window by 10mm, and turn on the interior lights. As soon as the door opens, another switch inside the door lock (explained later) tells the ACM that the door is open, which holds the window down until the door is closed, when the window is raised, and the dimming timer on the interior lights is started. Once the car is locked, the outside handle switches are ignored by the ACM. The remaining five switches are inside the door lock assembly: c) One switch senses if the door is open or closed. d) One senses that the key has been turned to the ‘lock’ position. e) Another senses that the key has been turned to the ‘unlock’ position. f) One senses that the door lock motor has reached the ‘lock’ position. g) Another senses that the door lock motor has reached the ‘unlock’ position. TYPICAL FAULTS All these microswitches can be problematic, and it is common for one or more to fail at some time. These are some of the common failures and symptoms: 1) The door window won’t drop when lifting a handle. This is usually the handle microswitch which has failed. 2) The window drops, but goes back up when the door opens. This can be the handle microswitch, or more likely the ‘door open/closed microswitch’ (c) has stuck. Because the system thinks the door is still closed, it sends the window back up. 3) Door window won’t go up the last 10mm. This is likely to be the ‘door open/closed microswitch’ (c) stuck in the opposite sense to (2). The system thinks the door is still open, so won’t allow the window to go back up. Note that in this case the door will still lock, but you may get a single-beep from the alarm horn. 4) Door will not lock with key. The ‘key lock’ microswitch (d) is broken. This is very rare, as this microswitch is hardly ever used – most times the car is locked by remote. 5) Door will not unlock with key. The ‘key lock’ microswitch (e) is broken. This is also very rare, for the same reason. 6) Door locks, and then immediately unlocks, usually accompanied by a double-beep from the alarm horn. This is the ‘door locked’ microswitch (f). The locking motor physically operates the door lock, but the microswitch to sense this has failed/stuck. The ACM promptly unlocks the car. In this case, the only way to lock the door is to use the emergency locking procedure. Turn the key in the door to the lock position and back three times in quick succession. 7) The door unlocks, but there is a beep from the alarm horn. This is the ‘door unlocked’ microswitch (g). Although the door is unlocked, the ACM has not recognised that. The alarm will not sound, as turning the key in the lock has deactivated it. FIXES The inside and outside handle microswitches are available separately, and are not too expensive. Although alternative equivalent switches may be available, the genuine Porsche switch comes with a connector and wiring, so it makes sense to use an original. The door lock microswitches are not available separately. You have to buy the complete door lock assembly. A good (but long) reference video on both removing the door panel and replacing the lock control unit can be seen here ... [youtube]eu_Y-0YDI88[/youtube] Nb info above courtesy of FZP with help from DeMort in this thread... http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=137099&highlight= THE INSTALL I had read mixed things on the internet as to whether or not the VW would be a straight fit or not......anyway without beating around the bush it turned out to be 100% exactly the same as the faulty Porsche part I removed from the car .....result.....you just have to swap over one piece of plastic from the outer door pull connector which I think you probably have to do with the new Porsche part as well ....pics later..... The job was striaghtforward but as pain in the backside in terms of being "fiddly" so make sure you set aside a good 3 hours for this and have certain tools / parts you will need ready to go...... you will need: - the replacement lock actuator - trim removal tools (helps to have a thin one and a very wide / thick one to help lever the door card off) - a T30 Hex driver - an M6 Spline driver (for the two screws that secure the actuator on the end of the door....you can get away with a T30 driver for these "most" of the time but if you have a stubborn screw you will need the "star" spline drive to get enough grip without stripping the threads which are quite soft. - Spare panel clips as at least one always breaks / won't reset - socket to remove the negative bolt from the battery - spanner to fit exterior door handle nut (can't remember size but similar to battery nut....you won't get a socket in there though so spanner needed) oh and...... - DO your research on how the exterior door handle and lock barrel connect to the actuator before you try, knowing exactly how those connect when your working blind is essential.....I've tried to make that easy in this how to by taking pics of the connections out of the car (ie I remove the exterior door handle as well to take pics but you don't need to do that for the actual install) So the process is in two stages really before you can change the actuator mechanism ie just to get access to it: 1) remove the inner door panel 2) remove the inner door membrane to allow access to the actuator within the door panel (this does not need to removed completely, just enough to allow access).... I'll skip instructions on step one as its very easy and there are plenty of how too videos on the internet.....the only thing is if you have not done this before is that you need a LOT of leverage to pop out the securing plugs after you have removed the 5 securing bolts.....I always start at the bottom outside corner with a large trim removal tool for leverage to get my fingers behind and then a big pull out to pop the plugs.....once you get those corner ones popped the others more easily pop out...... IMPORTANT Make sure you disconnect the battery before you start, especially when working within the door membrane and locking mechanism as you can cause the window to drop and it has no auto stop...it will chop things off ! Disconnect the Negative earth terminal...... Once the Inner Door Panel is removed store it safely nb At this stage I also check that the securing clips are "reset" for refitting ie or else I forget.....it is important that these are reset so that when you push fit them back they "spring" and lock in place. nb the lower ones form part of the waterproof membrane so these are very important. They are designed to reset themselves on removal but its not unusual for a few to need manual resetting......or even break so make sure you have a few spares ready.....they are cheap from OPC's but even cheaper from eBay... OPC part code... and identical eBay jobbies (I have both original and Ebay ones and they are the same... With the inner door panel out the way you can now remove the inner aluminium membrane..... nb this part is secured in place by screws AND a waterproof seal.....it is the seal that is often compromised by trim removal tools trying to lever the outer panel off that causes the "wet carpet" of the lower door panel problem......ie the lower 1/3rd of this membrane forms a waterproof seal that can leak if not refitted correctly....so don't damage it.....when you refit the membrane the screws should force it back to a waterproof seal but check the next time you wash your car that you don't get a wet door carpet at the very bottom.....if it does leak you will either need to remove the panel again and use some Butyl tape (used to fit car windows) on the lower 3rd of the membrane or get a new membrane (they are expensive c£200!) Inner Door Membrane ready for removal... You have to undo these T30 torx screws.... TOP TIP.... The screws are easy to remove but when you come to refit them there are many holes in the membrane and its hard to remember where they fit .....so BEFORE you remove them I mark each hole with a little red marker...it will save you a lot of head scratching later Once you have removed all screws the membrane will stay in place due to the waterproof seal.....before you pull this away you need to loosen one wiring harness to allow the door lock side of the membrane to move away... this simply unclips and clips back in place later... Next push through the two rubber grommets for the inner door handle cable and wiring harness... You can now gently pull the aluminium membrane away from the door and let the outside drop.....the inner side will be held by wiring and cables but there is no need to remove these ....you just need access to the inner door on the rear/lock side... You are now ready to try to remove the faulty door actuator unit..... First thing you notice is that you can't as there is a plastic "shield" fitted which prevents access to the outer door handle connector which you need to disconnect......I've not seen this before in guides but most guides are for a 9x6 or 9x7.1 so this may be new for the 9x7.2 cars....... anyway its easy to remove but you have to remove one of the two nuts that secure the outer door handle in place... Here it is removed out of the car so you can see how once the securing nut is removed it just "unhooks" from the actuator unit....you just need to manouver it forward and it comes away... Once that is removed you can now get to the outer door handle connector..... this is hard to show inside the door so the following pic shows it outside the car with the outer door handle also removed so you can clearly see how the connnectors for the outer door lever and lock barrel connect to the actuator.... nb this is looking from the opposite way that you see it from inside the door..... All you need to do is the "feel" for the black sheath which secures the outside door handle connector and push/slide it towards the actuator unit to unsecure.... With the black securing "sheath" pushed to the unlocked position you can then simply lever the connector rod out with you finger..... The Actuator unit is now ready for removal.......simply unplug the 9 pin electrical connector cable at the bottom of the unit and undo the x2 M6 Spline screws on the end of the door.....nb you can use a T30 torx drive on these BUT if they won't move easily you will need an M6 Spline drive ie this is start shaped so has more connecting points to spread the torque required to unscrew......if you have to apply too much torque with the T30 torx you risk stripping the head....the metal is quite soft compared to the torque which may be needed...... TOP TIP......if you don't have an M6 Spline drive try to loosen these two bolts BEFORE you are going to replace the actuator.....if you can't unscrew them without risking stripping the head then buy yourself a M6 Spline drive BEFORE you start the job..... With the x2 securing screws removed you can now simply pull the unit out.....nb the door lock barrel "chord" is simply sat in a receiving socket in the actuator unit so this just pulls out as you remove the unit.... When the actuator unit is removed this is what you see left behind.... Thats the easy bit done !........the trickiest part of the whole job is getting the new unit back in.....you have to make sure of two things.......the the door lock chord slides back into the receiving slot on the actuator unit (the most fiddly bit for me) and get the outer door handle rod back into the connector slot so you can slide the black securing "sheath" back up into the lock position...... but first you have to swap over the inner door handle cable and the locking mechanism for the outer door handle connector rod.... This is where I first got chance to compare my £15 VW Golf part to the c£250+ Porsche part.......they are identical !.... Original on Left.....new VW part on the Right here are the two parts you need to swap over....both very easy... You are now all set to fit the replacement actuator..... As I've already said the hardest bit I found was ensuring that the door barrel lock chord sits in the receiving slot of the actuator unit... The white Door lock barrel "Chord" is pretty rigid and so you have to do some moving around blind with both hands in the door to try to get the "chord" to sit in the receivign slot.....this is very important as without this working correctly you will be unable to unlock the car with the key if / when the alarm goes into "sleep" mode after 7 days of none use or the car runs out of battery! so make sure you are happy its sat right by testing it (see later).....nb I found it easier to do this stage before I secured the actuator to the car with the x2 spline screws.....once I had the chord seated in its slot I then held the unit in place with one hand and with the other screwed in the x2 securing screws from the outside with the other hand ....ie make sure you have these screws easily to hand..... Once you have the actuator unit secured in place with the door lock barrel chord in place its relatively easy to feel for the out door handle connector rod and push this back into the connector slot on the actuator unit.......you then just slide the black securing sheath back up into place until you feel a slight click....trying moving it back down without pushing on the small lever and it should not move...... you are now almost done......however before going any further CHECK THE DOOR LOCK WORKS ! to do this you can manually lock the door lever with your finger (ie to simulate the door being closed)... Start pushing it up with your finger.... it has two positions.... keep pushing to the locked position.... now insert you key in the door lock and rotate towards the back of the car to simulate "locking" the car....you should feel a little resistance....if the inner connecting chord is not connected to the door actuator correctly it will either rotate with no resistance or not move at all (ie if the cable is trapped somehow)... Now lift the drivers door handle to simulate trying to open the door.....it should just move up with no resistance and the door lock remain locked ie as if the car where locked.... Door lock still in locked position... Now turn the car key towards the Front of the car to simulate unlocking it.....again you should feel resistance ........ then pull on the drivers door handle.......this time the door lock should move to the unlocked position (you should hear it and can see it).... Once you have checked that is working fine........you have done the hard bit.....now you can put everything else back together....... ........I only have two tips for everyting else..... make sure the electrical plug to the inner door card with the orange lever lock is secured properly...its easy to think this has when it has not.....if its not you will have no power to the windows .......so once the aluminium membrane is back in situ I reconnect the battery so that I can check the electrics are working BEFORE I pop the inner door card back on ie you want to check this before as you don't want to remove that door card again and risk breaking the plastic secruing plugs unless you have to... Second tip is rest the inner door card on the door frame at the top to line up the securing plugs to the holes ......I start by hitting the door card at the top to pop the securing pins in and work my way down / around ......you need to make sure every securing plug has seated correctly, especially the lower ones as these form part of the waterproof seal.......the door card will not sit evenly all the way around if one of the plugs is not seated in its hole...... So job done....time to test it out......it is worth noting I had three issues when I tested.... 1) the window would drop with the door handles but as soon as I released either inner of outer handle the window would pop up.....that is a sign that the door latch microswitch is faulty....obviously I have a new unit so it should not be.....it turned out that the lock catch was slightly lined up incorrectly ie if I touched it slightly with my finger so it "sat differenty" the window stayed put....it meant that the door latch was not sitting in the right position automatically.... you can loosen the x2 two securing screws and slightly move the lock catch up / down ..... I did this and it then worked perfectly 2) I got a PSM error on the dash display.......this should not be related to changing the door lock actuator and so likely to have something to do with disconnecting / reconnecting the battery.....so I ran my tester and it came up with an error...."4444 Steering Angle Sensor not Initialised"..... 3) I fitted an aftermarket hood unit last year that allows single press hood up / down operation (ie so you don't need to keep you finger on the hood open/close button).....the hood constantly stopped / started and moved in a very jerky way.....if I left my finger on the button it worked perfectly.....very strange So for 2) I figured the car needed a run to hopefully reset .......I did this with a short drive around my local area....within a few hundred yards the fault had gone ie it reset itself..... When I got back I tried the auto roof open / close again.....and this time it worked fine as normal....no idea what was wrong with that but again a drive obviously reset something after the battery disconnect..... So there you have it.....its one of those jobs that is fiddly but once you have done it it is actually pretty easy....its a lot easier once you can see how the acuator actually connects to the outer door handle and key lock.....hopefully my guide / pics above in combination with video on the internet will help prepare you for it......if you have all the correct tools to hand its probably a 3 hour job taking your time.....once you have done it you could probably do it in an hour racing against the clock start to finish.....its also nice to know for certain that a £15 VW Golf part is identical to the Porsche part and is about 1/20th of the price !!!
  6. Extracted from my 987 journal as I thought it would make a good how to thread in its own right in these lockdown days 😉 Bluetooth Battery Meter Review..... So in these Virus Lockdown days the Boxster has been used a few days per week for a short commute into work but then has been stood for days without use.....although the commute runs are great with light traffic the car is just not getting the sort of run out it would normally....so I've started to wonder on the state of the battery.......I could maneauver cars around the driveway and put it on trickle charge but it would be nice to just "know" if the battery is OK or when it really needs charging......I checked out what options CTEK had to go with the charger (which already has the plug into battery connector with a status light but I find that unreliable)....sure enough they have a bluetooth device that can be left permanently on the battery with a phone app connecting to it......but its >£50 and ideally I would like x2 (ie one for the 993 and 987). The absolute ideal would be to be able to connect to either and know which car I was seeing.......so I thought it worthwhile googling alternative options ........a popular google find was a unit which seemed identical on pics but was badged up as different names with prices around £30-£40......then I stumbled on an ebay seller who seemed to be selling the same unit for £19 delivered and had sold >300 of them..... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Car-Battery-Monitor-Bluetooth-BM2-Voltage-Meter-Battery-Tester-Analyzer/264502444967?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 So the sensible head said "worth a shout for £19" ...order one and see what its like......so I ordered x2 😁 Delivered in less than 3 days.......fitted and up and running with the app in less than 30 min on two cars with both identified by name.......it is simply a very impressive gadget and app for £19 delivered....whats not to like.... Install is very simple via C connectors simply placed inbetween the negative and positive terminals on the battery.....the app is installed from a link on the device and auto connects via bluetooth....then simply use the app settings to replace the device code with whatever you want to call the car....... Comes in a simple plastic package.... just the device and pretty good instructions mainly about the app as the actual install is so simple... A good quality metal C connector means it can be bent without fear of snapping to make a neat install as needed.... Online features and guides seem none existant hence me writing this guide for this device.....here is the manual in full for reference as to how it works and features in use... and a very simple install....just loosen the terminal bolts enough to slide the C clip in and tighten back up.....the gap between the battery and frunk seal was perfect to simply hold the main unit in place without needing to secure it further......ps I also have the CTEK connector installed on this battery..... It connected quickly, I renamed the device connected to in the app settings and the first reading did indeed show a lower than ideal voltage given only infrequent short trips in the past few weeks ie not having chance to charge back up through use... Cranking Voltage was however fine on starting the car which was what I experienced in practice ie no indication on starting that the battery was down to c50% charge. So I connected the CTEK up to recharge the battery... and as expected all was fine just a few hours on charge later... So what was it like to use.......well simple and pretty fun...it just worked without any messing around......my car was parked on the drive close to the house and from my lounge my phone connected to it so I could take readings remotely without leaving the house......I'll be able to do that at any time to keep tabs on the battery whenever I like......the unit is obviously ON 100% of the time so not sure what power drain will be like but it uses the latest bluetooth standards so I expect it has a sleep mode to reduce power drain simply waiting for something to connect to it..... There is more which I've not had chance to check out yet.... The settings can be configured to auto take a reading every set time limit ...the unit itself keeps records for 31 days so as long as you connect your phone to it at least once every 31 days you keep a full history of the battery, when the car was stated and stopped (trips).... these are all downloaded historically to the phone on connection ..... ..you can set alerts so if the battery charge drops below x% you get a warning on your phone the next time it connects....eg as you get in the car Some pretty neat features in such a cheap device.... Time will tell just how useful it is in practice but lockdown is a time if ever I will need it even if just for piece of mind......I'm not sure if I will leave the app to run in the background on my phone as present ...advantage is auto notifications but not sure what battery drain on my phone will be like... So in summary what appears to be a useful and slick bit of kit if you have a car which is not ran every day nor left on trickle charge when not in use for extended periods :thumb:
  7. Yes, I’ve already had requests to take it to the next Manchester Porsche meet lol
  8. I have no idea re the durametric in terms of capability .....but my days of trying to get an old windows laptop to run dodgy software are over lol...........I Porsche Indy mechanic on another forum commented that it does basically everything that his workshop kit does with the exception of coding ..........I’m not sure what if anything it can do in that respect eg key coding, ECU coding but I assume it can’t.......the manual and info I could (not) find online as to detailed capabilities really was shockingly poor, really underselling its capabilities over a standard generic OBD reader.....hence my effort to document as much as possible as I did not feel I was replicating something someone else had already done.
  9. I have extracted this from my 987 journal to also create a seperate thread as it may be useful to people who are not necessarily looking in the 987 section of the forum.......... iCarsoft POR v2 Diagnostic user experience....... So I've had a problem with my UK spec 2011 987-2 Boxster S Black Edition ie the common window drop on door open failure.......its been sparodic and inconsitent in presentation and is more than likely down to a poor / failing solder in the drivers door locking mechanism........but it could be other control units involved in the process........this is something which cannot be diagnosed using a generic OBD2 connector ie generic OBD2 readers can only read generic input which is standard across all car makes (not just Porsche) ....when more specific control unit readings / diagnosis are required a car specific diagnostic machine is needed...... ......So although the likely cause of the problem was known I decided to take the opportunity to buy a specialist diagnostic device for the car...... Some quick google research led to a few options but one consistant, modern, easy to use solution kept on popping up on the best / recommended buys.....the iCarSoft POR v2........this is designed to use on a wide range of Porsche models ie not just a 2011 Boxster.......so far as I can tell there are versions for various car makes eg mercedes, BMW etc....with the POR being the designated Porsche version......there is even a version that will do many makes of cars, which is not that more expensive and so may be a good option if you have a larger fleet of "out of warranty" cars (the iCarsoft CR v2 which I think does x10 different makes of car including Porsche)....... I purchased mine from ukpartsdirect using their eBay store for £136 delivered.....it took 3 days from order to arrive (even in virus pandemic restrictions) ....... I've decided to write this user experience as I simply could not find a lot of detail on this diagnostic device for the Porsche other than basic specs ie I was not even sure what control modules it can "see" / diagnose / error find / error clear / etc.......before ordering and the actual user manual when you do get it is very generic and not specific to the Porsche tests is actually capable of doing...... Hopefully others will find this of use......it is worth noting I'm not endorsing this unit in any way.....I have not used any other (other than a cheap bluetooth OBD2 generic reader)........and so I have nothing to compare it to / against for the more modern Porsches.....my only other experience of Porsche diagnostic devices is the original OPC Bosche "Hammer" I have for my 993, given that is c25 years old technology.....cost me >£1,000, is original Porsche diagnostic equipment and is like rocking horse poo to find ......its not really a fair comparison to an off the shelf relatively cheap device.... So what do you get......well you get a nice box..... and in that you get a nice case...... and in that you get a nice quality / feel device and associated cables..... the cables are: - a serial to OBD2 connector cable (for in the car diagnosis) - a USB to mini USB cable (for connection to a computer) power is supplied to the unit either via the in car OBD2 port or computer USB cable ie it has no seperate power cable or battery requirements. Next to the mini USB connector there is a micro card slot. This comes preinstalled with a 256MB card. I have not tested out what this card holds but the unit does have a facility to record test results which are written to this card......it may hold the actual dignosis software but I have not bothered to check that as I presume its either hidden or on programmable memory within the unit ie to avoid piracy ? So the first thing the very generic manual tells you to do is to connect the device up to a computer via the included USB cable to update the software / firmware........to facilite this you do need to download and install some driver software from the iCarSoft website first so make sure you have admin rights to install software to whichever computer you are going to use..... The software installed without any issues and when the devices USB is then plugged in it is recognised as a new drive by the computer. The installed software can then be ran to check for software / firmware updates.... mine actually showed that it had the lastest software already installed and so there was no actual need to update.... Now that the device is powered on whilst connected to a computer you are able to "play around" with it. This will however only allow you to do so much as to actually carry out any diagnosis or even see detailed sub menus of what modules can be tested for requires the device to actually be connected to the car.... so the main menu screen.... This shows options for (nb more detail on each later): - Diagnosis (the main purpose of the machine) - Service (this allows you to reset service lights etc....) - Voltage (allows you to read battery voltages) - OBD2 (this allows you to use the device on other makes of cars but only for generic / common OBD2 tests) - Review (you can store test results for historical comparisons) - DTC lookup (you can type in an error code to see the narrative if required) - Setup (some basic setting such as imperial / metric units of measurement) - Help - About The menu item you will use the most is the Diagnostic menu. When you press this it presents you with ......1 option ie Porsche.....I presume the x10 make model would present various options at this point ? you are then asked to choose between 2 versions. I have no idea what difference there is between each as there was nothing obvious on some quick later trials save that a few messages are worded slightly differently. I simply chose what I presumed was the later v11.25... This then takes you to a model selection screen(s).... If you choose a model you are then asked if you want the machine to "smart scan" which modules it can connect to our you can choose a "manual" scan to see all possible modules for that model of car..... To progress any further you obviously have to have the unit connected to the cars OBD2 port and not a computer ! So before I go into exmaples of my diagnosis of my 987's fault I thought it worthwhile summarising the different modules its possible to connect to for each model of Porsche it lists.....it is worth noting that later software versions may changes this list but this is as per my up to date software version as shown above..... Using v11.25 of the Porsche Software installed choices: Models selectable: 911 - 996, 997, 991 GT2 - 996 GT3 - 996 Boxster (presumably Cayman as well) - 986, 987, 981, 982 (ie 718) Cayman Carrera GT Cayenne (9PA to 2010, 92A from 2011) Macan Panamera - 970 It is also worth noting that although you can see modules for each model of Porsche you cannot access the sub menus unless the car is connected. Therefore I can only detail the individual sub menus that are available for my car, a 987 boxster...... I will therefore start with the 987 Boxster as that is the most detailed information I have on the unit....... DIAGNOSIS menu option......... Boxster 987 (nb same for Cayman option without module 13) * Manual Scans possible with the current software = 20 possible control modules # Auto Scan of my car = 14 control units ie 6 modules can't be connected to my car eg Tiptronic control as its a manual car....... Auto scan of the modules whch can be connected to... 1 - DME (Digital engine Electronics)*# - A/C Request - Clutch Switch - Cruise Control decelerate / resume - Cruise Control readiness - Cruise Control store / accelerate - Full load recognition - Idle recognition - Immobiliser - Start enable switch - Stop light switch - Ambient pressue from DME - Vehicle speed from PSM - DME supply voltage - Nominal idle speed - Radiator fan request value - A/C pressure - Fuel Level - Warm-up Cycle counter - Engine load (SAEJ 1979) - Engine speed - Engine load - Altitude correction faction from DME - Idle loss adaption - Fuel injection time - Time as of end of starting - DME operating time since powerfail - Distance since powerfail - Distance with Check Engine On - Driving cycle counter 2 - TCM (Tiptronic Transmission Control)* - unknown sub menus as cannot connect to ie control module not present on a manual car 3 - PSM (Porsche Stability Management)*# - Brake fluid level switch - Brake test switch - Combination sensor self-test - PSM OFF button - Parking brake switch - Return pump (RFP) - Stop light switch - Valve relay - Brake light switch voltage - Front left speed - Front right speed - Lateral acceleration sensor - Pressure sensor - Rate of turn sensor - Speed, rear left - Speed, rear right - Vehcile leectrical system battery - Engine coding (CAN) - Engine speed (CAN) - PSM passive signal (CAN) - Sport mode switch (CAN) - Status of steering angle sensor (CAN) - Steering angle sensor ID (CAN) - Steering angle sensor (CAN) - Transmission coding (CAN) - Vehicle model (CAN) - Vehicle speed (CAN) - Vehicle type (CAN) 4 - POSIP (Porsche Supplement Impact Protection)*# - AWS circuit 2 deactivated - Belt buckle on driver side - Belt buckle on passenger side - Key switch circuit 1 - Key switch circuit 2 - POSIP triggering device - Passenger airbag OFF indicator light - Triggering event 1 - Triggering event 2 - Triggering event 3 - Weight Class 0 - Weight Class 1 - Weight Class 2 - Weight Class 3 - Weight Class 4 - Resisitor, roll over bar triggering solonoid - Resisitor, roll over bar triggering solonoid - Operating time 5 - IC (Instrument Cluster)*# - ParkAssistant frequency - Supply voltage terminal 30 - External dimming of orientation light - Dimming display - Photo transistor brightness - Speed - Clutch early switch actuated - Washer fluid level - Non-compensated oil level - Oil lvl 1st comp.stage Zoil lvlKomp1 - Oil lvl 1st comp.stage Zoil lvlKomp2 - Oil lvl 1st comp.stage Zoil lvlKomp3 - Oil temperature when measured - Time in instrument cluster when oil level measured - Voltage difference at oil probe contact - Sensor value - Short distance - Total distance - Fuel level 6 - AC (Air Condition)*# - Air distribution bottom button - Air distribution centre button - Air distribution top button - Auto button - Button for left seat heating - Button for right seat heating - CAN compressor shutdown - Compressor request - Compressor run-in phase ended - Compressor status - Defrost button - ECO button - Engine running signal - Fan plus button - Heated rear window button - Re circuit Air button - RPM increase - RPM decrease - Seat ventilation button, left - Seat ventilation button, right - Temperature decrease button - Temperature increase button - CAN ambient temperature - Intake temperature - Inside temperature - Outlet temperature - CAN engine temperature - Temperature mixing flap, nominal - Temperature mixing flap, actual - Central flap, nominal - Central flap, actual - Footwell/defroster flap, nominal - Footwell/defroster flap, actual - Outside air/re circuit air flap, nominal - Outside air/re circuit air flap, actual - Activation voltage fresh air fan - Supply Voltage terminal 30 - Sensor supply voltage (5V) - CAN vehicle speed - CAN engine speed - Sun intensity - Refrigerant pressure - Inside sensor fan speed - Compressor current - Compressor activation - Compressor speed - Compressor load moment - Evaporator temperature 7 - GW (Gateway)*# - Minimal after-running time until bus idle - Power supply - Warning thresholds - CPU-load - Comfort CAN - Terminal 15'PAS CAN' - Terminal 15'hardware PAS' - Terninal S'PAS CAN' - Wake-up line' display CAN' 8 - VES (Vehicle Electrical System)*# - Button for front lid opener - Button for rear lid opener - Button for rear spoiler - Button for unlocking rear window - Filler flap release - Fog light - Fog tail light - Parking contact for front wipers - Rain sensor - Reversing light - Sport button - Terminal 30G - Terminal 30G - Seat heating - Washing system pump - Wiper - Terminal 30 9 - PAS (Porsche Access System)*# - Brake Switch A circuit - Clutch (CAN drive) - Feedback terminal 15 - Feedback terminal 50 - Selector lever position P - Power Supply - Current key number 10 - PAM (Park Assistant Module)*# - ParkAssistant accoutstic warning status - ParAssistant status - Sensor voltage status (PDC-internal) - Speed-dependant switch-off threshold - Status of terminal 15 - Supply voltage status - Transmission type - Transport/production mode - Removal of outer right sensor - Removal of inner right sensor - Removal of inner left sensor - Removal of outer left sensor - Overall distance value, rear - Power Supply - Power supply, sensors - Selected gear - Vehicle speed (CAN) - Sensor, left inside, fault - Sensor, left outside, fault - Sensor, right inside, fault - Sensor, right outside, fault - Removal of right sensor pair - Removal of centre sensor pair - Removal of left sensor pair 11 - SCS (Steering Column Switch)*# - Horn - Direction indicator lights - High beam / headlight flasher - Wiper stage - Rear wiper / washer system - Wiping interval potentiometer - Speed control system button - Speed control system on/off - Power supply 12 - TPM (Tire Pressue Monitoring)* - unknown sub menus as cannot connect to ie control module not present on my car 13 - DSM (Drivers Memory Seat)* nb not on Cayman menu - unknown sub menus as cannot connect to ie control module not present on my car 14 - DDM (Drivers Door Module)*# - Central locking supply voltage - Close door lock barrel - Door contact switch/rotary latch active - Door handle button, inner - Door handle button, outer - Open door lock barrel - Status of lock: locked - Status of lock: saved - Button-auto-close passenger power window - Button-auto-close power window - Button-auto-open passenger power window - Button-auto-open power window - Button-manually close passenger power window - Button-manually close power window - Button-manually open passenger power window - Button-manually open power window - Front power window change-over switch - Power window supply voltage - Rear power window change-over switch - Status of key button (1) - Status of key button (2) - Status of key button (3) - Status of memory switch (M) - Exterior mirror heating - Mirror glass vertical position (-) - Mirror horizontal position (+) - Mirror horizontal position (-) - Mirror vertical position (+) - Driver mirror change-over switch - Passenger mirror change-over switch - Power window motor thermal protection - Window end position - Central locking supply voltage - Power window supply voltage - Mirror glass horizontal position - Mirror glass vertical position - Status of driver power window button - Status of passenger power window button - Status of front and rear power window button - Status of memory switch (M) - Status of mirror change-over switch - Status of mirror adjustment switch - Status of door lock barrel - Status of door lock - Status of key/person button (1-3) - Mirror power supply voltage 15 - PDM (Passenger's Door Module)*# - Central locking supply voltage - Door contact switch/rotary latch active - Door handle button, inner - Door handle button, outer - Status of lock: locked - Status of lock: saved - Button-auto-close power window - Button-auto-open power window - Button-manually close power window - Button-manually open power window - Power window supply voltage - Status of key button (1) - Status of key button (2) - Status of key button (3) - Status of memory switch (M) - Exterior mirror heating - Mirror glass vertical position (-) - Mirror horizontal position (+) - Mirror horizontal position (-) - Mirror vertical position (+) - Driver mirror change-over switch - Passenger mirror change-over switch - Power window motor thermal protection - Window end position - Central locking supply voltage - Power window supply voltage - Mirror glass horizontal position - Mirror glass vertical position - Status of driver power window button - Status of passenger power window button - Status of front and rear power window button - Status of memory switch (M) - Status of mirror change-over switch - Status of mirror adjustment switch - Status of door lock barrel - Status of door lock - Status of key/person button (1-3) - Mirror power supply voltage 16 - WATCH (Additional Instrument - Watch)* - unknown sub menus as cannot connect to ie control module not present on my car 17 - PASM (Porsche Active Suspension Management)* - my car does have PASM but I swapped out the OEM controller for a DSC aftermarket unit and so therefore it cannot be seen by the diagnostic device 18 - AWS (Advanced Weight System)* - unknown sub menus as cannot connect to ie control module not present on my car 19 - FECM (Front-End Electronics Control Module)*# - Button for front lid opener - Button two-tone horn/horn(via CAN) - Daytime driving light active via PCM - Direction indication left - Direction indication right - Engine running (via CAN) - Hazard warning light switch - Headlight flasher button (via CAN) - Left door lock contact (via CAN) - Microswitch emergency release of front lid - Microswitch front lid lock - Right door lock contact (via CAN) - Status of radiator fan control - Status of right parking light / side light - Status of right side direction indicator light - Status servo drive locking hook activation - Switch for left parking light - Switch for right parking light - Switch dipped beam (driving light) - Switch driving light assistant - Swtich fog light - Switch full beam - Switch rear fog light - Terminal 15 - Terminal 15 redundant - Terminal 86S (key contact) - Wheel speed signal / vehcile speed signal - Power right dipped beam (driving light) - Fog light current - High beam current - Supply voltage (terminal 30) - Signal voltage angle wens.of front compression - Signal voltage angle wens.of rear compression - Power left dipped beam (driving light) - HBA, steering angle sensor, amount 20 - RECM (Rear-End Control Module)*# - Bottom Spoiler - Central locking system button - Convertable top closed - Convertible top open - Glove compartment - Latching hook - Rear luggage compartment / engine compartment - Top spoiler So for my car the unit cannot see TCM, TPM, DSM, WATCH, PASM, AWS. My car does have PASM BUT I have the aftermarket DSC PASM controller fitted and so that is why it can't see that module. The way the device works is that when you have chosen which control modules you want to see (ie Smart Scan or Manual) you can scroll through each .....eg here I have scrolled to the DDM (Drivers Door Module).... The device checks it can communicate with the control module and if it can presents you with 4 options: - Module information (this provides things like part number) - Read Fault Code - Clear Fault Code - View Data Eg Module Information for the DDM..... if you then choose Read Fault Codes.... This fault was what I was looking for and help confirm that module is causing my window problems.... NB the problem with fault codes is that there is no "time stamp" on them so you do not know when they occured. It is possible for fault codes to be shown which have since been rectified or have been caused by other problems.....therefore the process should always be: - check for fault codes - clear any fault codes - recheck for fault codes That way you can be sure that the fault code is current and related to the current problem you are trying to diagnose..... and so when I recheck for a fault code... I can now wait for a problem and recheck for an error code It is worth noting that I also found some other fault codes which seem to be related: Vehicle Electrical System.... FECM (front end control module)..... RECM (Rear end control module).... All helping to confirm there is a problem with with the DDM (Drivers Door Module) All where cleared to be checked the next time I have a problem. The last of the 4 initial module options "View Data" then allows you to go into the sub menus (listed above) to carry out specific tests eg... if you want to check a switch is working eg the "Auto Air Con"... Go into the AC module... Choose the Auto button test... It will show it as not activated.... If you now press the button..... it will show it as activated as you press it.... nb this is NOT a test as to whether the air con is working but simply to test the auto button is.....if the climate will not go onto auto you therefore know its not a faulty button.....there are other tests for the actual air con system as per the menu system. eg So thats it for a 987 ie diagnosis with detailed sub menu checks that can be carried out......it is worth noting that you have to fault check each module seperately ie you cannot just press a button and it fault checks every control module it can connect to and report a list of faults. So what about the other models of Porsche the unit can read. Well I can't see the sub menus without connecting to an actual car of that model but I can see the main control modules that it may be possible to connect to if the car has them..... so for each model...... 911 (992) As you would expect there are totally different control modules for the latest cars compared to a 2011 Boxster above and the system showed a total of 29 being: also note the 981 & 982 are the same but exclude modules 19&20 ie no rear door modules 1 - DME 2 - TCM 3 - PSM 4 - Airbag 5 - IC 6 - Air condition 7 - Gateway 8 - Parking Brake Module 9 - Parking Assistant Module 10 - Electonic Power Steering 11 - Steering wheel module 12 - Headlight control unit - central 13 - Headlight Beam Adjustment - left 14 - Headlight Beam Adjustment - right 15 - Drivers Memory Seat 16 - Passengers Memory Seat 17 - Drivers Door Module 18 - Passengers Door Module 19 - Rear Left Door 20 - Rear Right Door 21 - Convertable Top Module 22 - Additional Instrument Watch 23 - Selector Lever Module 24 - Level Control Module 25 - Front end Electronics Control Module 26 - Rear end Electronics Control Module 27 - TV Tuner 28 - External Amplifier 29 - Radio 911 (996) has 8 control modules: nb the 986 is the same but excludes module 8 for the convertable top (not sure why, must be controlled differently, 997 to 987 seems the same with the boxster not actually having a seperate roof controller) 1 - DME 2 - Tiptronic Transmission Control 3 - ABS 4 - Airbag 5 - Instrument Cluster 6 - Air Condition 7 - Park Assistant 8 - Convertable Top GT2 & GT3 (996) 1 - ABS 2 - Airbag 3 - Instrument Cluster 4 - Air Condition 997 has 23 control modules: as per the x20 987 above plus 3 additional 1 - Porsche Traction Management 2 - Convertable Top 3 - Sun Roof Carrera GT has 1 - ABS 2 - Airbag 3 - Instrument Cluster 4 - Air Condition 5 - Tire Pressure Monitor Cayenne (9PA) to 2010 has 1 - DME 2 - Tiptronic Transmission Control 3 - Transfer Case Control 4 - PSM 5 - Airbag 6 - Instrument Cluster 7 - Air Condition 8 - Gateway 9 - Vehicle Electrical System 10 - Keyless Entry and Drive 11 - Park Assistant 12 - Steering Column Switch 13 - Headlight Control - left 14 - Headlight Control - right 15 - Headlight Beam Adjustment - left 16 - Headlight Beam Adjsutment - right 17 - Drivers Memeory Seat 18 - Passengers Memory Seat 19 - Rear Door 20 - Tail Door 21 - Sun Roof 22 - Advanced Weight System 23 - PDCC / offroad roll bar 24 - Trailer Hitch 25 - Auxiliary Heater 26 - Level Control 27 - Magnetic Field Sensor 28 - Transverse Lock 29 - Wiper Cayenne (92A) from 2011 and Macan (excluding #) and Panamera (970) (excluding *) 1 - DME 2 - Tiptronic Transmission Control 3 - PSM 4 - Airbag 5 - Instrument Cluster 6 - Air Condition 7 - Air Condition Compressor # 8 - Gateway 9 - Parking Brake 10 - Park Assistant 11 - Electric Power Steering 12 - Steering Wheel 13 - Tire Pressure Monitor 14 - All Wheel Drive * (Panamera has Headlight Control Unit instead) 15 - Headlight Beam Adjustment - left # (Macan Central option, no left / right) 16 - Headlight Beam adjustment - right # 17 - Adaptive Cruise Control 18 - Drivers Memeory Seat 19 - Passengers Memory Seat 20 - Drivers Door Module 21 - Passengers Door Module 22 - Rear Left Door 23 - Rear Right Door 24 - Rear Lid 25 - Additional Compass Instrument * 26 - Additonal Instrument WATCH 27 - PDCC / offroad roll bar # 28 - High Voltage Battery # 29 - High Voltage Power Electronic # 30 - Lane Change Assist 31 - Rear Differential Lock 32 - Trailer Hitch 33 - Auxiliary Heater 34 - Level Control 35 - Front-end Electronics Control 36 - Rear-end Electronics Control 37 - PCM / CD Radio 38 - Front Camera 39 - Reversing Camera 40 - TV Tuner 41 - External Amplifier + MACAN has: - Reducing Agent System - Sound Composer + Panamera has: - Selector Lever Module Hopefully the above will help owners with other Porsche models have some idea of what control modules can be checked. So what about the other device main menu options other than the main diagnosis.... SERVICE Goes to a sub menu VOLTAGE... OBD2.... Allows you to read generic manufacture fault codes across other makes ie other than Porsche, as per any generic OBD2 reader...some exmaples (I did not photograph everything)..... REVIEW.... This is a nice feature as you have the option to save an error code to a test and review it later even after fault codes have been cleared.....it means you can compare test results over time... DTC Lookup.... You can type in a code to get a narrative... SETUP So there you have it......I hope you have found this useful to understand what a 3rd party specialist diagnostic machine should be able to do and how it can help you understand / trace problems with your cars......
  10. Nope it will increase it only joking as insurance companies make their own rules up so who knows. All that matters is you get like for like cover ie what you need and what goes out your bank account 😉
  11. Protected no claims is just a gimmick IMO, its does not mean that your insured risk won't increase so all they do is increase that by more to offset the no claims discount ie they make up the rules....... Shop around every year, no matter what, insurance loyalty only get you ripped off........having said that I've been with classic line for a few years no. ITs a slightly different form of insurance so there is no, no claims discount but what matters at the end of the day is the cover and what goes out you bank account......worth giving them a shout as they are a small outfit (based in Hinkley) but used by a lot of Porsche owners around the country 😉
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