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Lennym1984

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Everything posted by Lennym1984

  1. If you really want to do a good job, buy some epoxy mastic. It takes a long time to fully cure (about a week) but once it is dry, it is extremely tough. I left some in a plastic mixing cup and it has dried into a 2 inch thick "puck." I've hit it with chisels and hammers (just to see how tough it was) and nothing will scratch it.
  2. Having worked in a car manufacturers warranty department in a previous life (graduate scheme at a well known Japanese manufacturer - bloody awful and put me off for life), I think you would be hard pressed getting this covered under the anti-perforation warranty. They will tell you that this is due to an external influence - most likely a badly fitting tailgate - and is not covered under the terms of their "inside-out" corrosion warranty. In theory they may argue that had it had it's annual body checks at an OPC, the tech would have noticed the tailgate fit/misplaced seal (whatever) and have fixed it. It's kind of a BS excuse but you would be surprised what some customers want to be covered under warranty (stone chips, accident damage etc). I remember one famous prat trying to get us to cover the cost of his body repairs after (he claimed) a defective wheel broke at 70mph. Obviously this was quite a serious case and so we had to involve the crash investigators and police. It quickly became apparent that he had actually been racing an MR2 on public roads (at speeds in excess of 120mph according to witnesses), hit a kerb, and smashed the wheel. Needless to say that the warranty didn't cover it but the police did charge him with dangerous driving
  3. I whole heartedly agree that A-Plan are great. They were actually very competitive when I insured my Cayman (about the same price as one of the better "Compare the Market" quotes) but even if they had been marginally more expensive (hopefully they won't read this and ramp up my renewal next year ), I probably would still have chosen them - Actually being able to speak to an intelligent, rational human being is almost priceless. I'm planning to insure my other car with them when it comes up for renewal. Also they appear to be one of the few brokers that can offer trackday cover. When I discussed the same with Adrian Flux last year, I had to spend about 20 minutes just explaining what a trackday was (they initially seemed to think that I was asking about taking my Boxster offroading).
  4. They're probably telling the truth. I've ordered from them a few times (my wife drove through our fence last year) and they've always been reliable. Did you get an airbrush? I've seen people online using a composed air can... Which is obviously cheaper than a compressor
  5. Just a note to say that I haven't forgotten about the write up (and will do it soon) but have had a bit of a hectic time since I last posted. To manage expectations though, a blend is always easiest when you can lose the edge (I was doing the door jamb so there were edges and light deflections galore). Doing an invisible 360 degree blend will be tricky and is why smart repairers don't like doing it. Nonetheless, I'll do a step by step guide to show the process and we can see how invisible we can make it
  6. Having just written that all down, if you haven't already got a compressor and airbrush, you may be better off with a smart repairer...or if you are near Oxford you are more than welcome to come round and use mine
  7. I bought my current airbrush from amazon but beware there is a lot of cr*p on there (as in unusable and falls to pieces). This is the one I bought and so far it is excellent. Gocheer High Precision Dual... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B071JBRHFH?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf You will need a compressor. I have a 50l 9.6cfm one but you can use a much smaller/cheaper one for an airbrush. You will also need to thin the paint until it is the consistency of milk (proper nail varnish remover will work but thinners is probably better). Fade out thinners is this stuff. http://www.express-paints.co.uk/u-pol-9-blend-aerosol-450ml/ You can get it on amazon or ebay and there are other brands available. It's all the same I won't be able to do a guide until the weekend but you should practice with an airbrush before taking to your car anyway
  8. I don't have any step by step pictures but I do have a "finished" one that I can upload tomorrow. If people are really interested, I can do a proper guide using an old fuel filler flap I have in the shed
  9. How did you get on? I did my scratch on the weekend and the repair is totally invisible. I ended up using two stage paint (although I used the 1 stage elsewhere and the outcome was just as good) and blending spray. Here's what I did... Carefully roughed up an area about 3" radius from the scratch using 1000 grit. In an area about 2" radius from the scratch, I roughed up with 800 Directly over the scratch (where my basecoat was going to be shot) I keyed the surface with 600. I then marked the different areas on the tape I had applied to the edge I wanted to mask off. Once I had cleaned the area, I used an airbrush (it's a great tool for things like this) to apply a couple of coats of colour over the 600 grit area. The edges on either side were feathered. Once this had flashed off (10 minutes or so), I laid the first coat of clear over the 600. Then a second overlapping the 800, and then a final coat coming almost to the edge of the 1000. Before the final coat dried I sprayed some blending solvent over the edge and on to the last piece of exposed 1000 grit. The finish was pretty good from the offset but today I have it a quick once over with 2500 grit and then polished it. Hey presto, an invisible repair. Now blending clear is never the perfect solution (in exposed areas it will eventually show - maybe 5 years or so) but it's better than forking out for a respray
  10. This is the stuff I use https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F270604353489 I'm actually really impressed with it. The color match is perfect and it polishes nicely. I'm going to try repairing a scratch on my door jamb (in really p*ssed about this one) with it in an airbrush. I'll let you know how I get on.
  11. Hi, having done a bit of paintwork before, I'd guess that your problem now is the clearcoat. You can't spot repair clear coat without it leaving an edge. Smart repairs usually either reclear the whole panel or blend out the clear with blending thinners. Can you get the 1 stage touch up anywhere (clear and base together)? It won't be perfect but easier than a respray
  12. Hi I had the exact same problem (also whilst doing my brake fluid) and I used a set of Irwin Bolt Grip Removers. It was dead easy, cost about 10 quid from amazon, and I've used them since on a rounded nut. It'll knacker the lock nuts but to be honest, once you see how easy they are to remove, you'll realise they are pointless.
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