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Everything posted by ½cwt

  1. Mine dropped in perfectly on my 986 at the weekend. To confirm you cannot get the brace past the ARB on a 986 without undoing the ARB mounts. Nicely made product Mick. 👍
  2. Like the 'Bally Brace' name 👍 Torque to 65Nm or 48 lbft if you use the same torque as the original stud in this position. Nice write up, hoping to fit mine tomorrow and I ahve done all new suspension in the last 9 months. @Araf any way to modify this thread into a How To and copy it to that section of the forum?
  3. The iCarsoft POR v1.0 and V2.0 will NOT do a handover or 'wake up' modules. As someone mentioned it above, the service reset does just that but asked whether miles or KM which I guess just takes out rounding errors between the metric and imperial unit of measure systems. I've just done one for the first time for some one on a 987.
  4. @Araf, @Menoporsche should this be put in How To???
  5. 👍👍 Book marked! Welcome, good entrance! Add your location to your profile it will help other offer relevant help.
  6. I have the v1 of this as after correspondence with the company I didn't feel the need to pay the extra for tools that are not required on earlier cars like electric hand brake back off. It is a passive device that can rest and is therefore very helpful for a DIY mechanic, it CANNOT do programming/coding like cruise control or a handover. For more in depth work you with need a higher level tools such as Durametric, PWIS etc. I have used it to rest ABS after changing a sensor and reset engine fault codes after a MAF sensor failure and change. If you have 986/996 or 987/987 then v1 at just under £100 is a very useful tool to have and will cover the read and reset functions for those models as well as give live data if you want it. Mine has already saved me that in fault code reads. It will work as a general OBD2 reader for compliant Makes and models for engine related codes only though. Per the offer above from @TV8 I am willing to help people in around South Mids.
  7. Depends on the suspension fitted to the car, standard or sports Look for code 029 (standard) or 030 on the label inside the bonnet that has a whole block of 3 digit codes on it as well as the paint code and a lot of other details on the spec of the car as it left the factory. More info at this link: https://www.stuttcars.com/technical/option-codes/
  8. A little more info, the 3 bolt sizes in the 'boomerang' bracket have the following torque settings: Front in to side chassis member 16mm hex - 120 Nm (89 lb ft) Centre hex on tuning fork 18mm - 160 Nm (118 lb ft) ARB clamping bolts, 2 rear most bolts, 15mm hex - 75 Nm (56 lb ft)
  9. I was glad to find all 4 front nipples came lose OK, but I used a deep 11mm socket to tighten then loosen off whist being able to control the applied torque better with the ratchet handle and my free hand to prevent twisting in the wrong plane. Haven't broken the lines or got to the rears yet as I found a broken front spring which needed more urgent attention.
  10. Thanks for passing on your experience @MattO89 most helpful.
  11. I'm about to tackle some of my brake lines so some follow up questions: - Your picture indicates you used Plus Gas, your write up says WD40. Have you found one better than the other? - On the bleed nipples, I have seen a write up suggesting using a 6 point deep socket (i.e. 6 flats on the the 6 flats of the nipple) to best release the nipples, did you do this or use a flare spanner or 12 point ring spanner. Would you hazard a guess as to whether any of these might get a better result than you in rounding them off? - Where did you source your stainless replacements from and have they remained unseized so far?
  12. Only just come across this thread. I replaced my MAF as the old one was shot and the car started misfiring all over the place. I took the opportunity to clean the throttle body which was pretty fifthly so cleaning it all out with Wurth brake cleaner. Fortunately I have a code reader to be able to reset the CEL after the MAF errors. Doing both at the same time made sense so the car could 'learn' its new settings all in one go. After just a clean, the TB could be flowing better but if the MAF is on its way out and the ECU has self adjusted to bad data from the MAF, that might explain why the OP's had stared running roughly. With a correctly functioning MAF and a clean throttle body the throttle response is definitely sharper and the whole drive train smoother on low speed/low throttle openings.
  13. Give 3 flashes to the indicator it you dont full latch it in the on position as many newer cars now do. I found myself through having become lazy from having this function in all the other vehicles I drive too often only giving one flash in the Boxster which is a. unclear to others (was it a mistake) or b. missed by others when 3 are not. Teh normal function when you latch the indicator stalk in position to signal is retained. This is not a MUST HAVE upgrade by any stretch but an easy one if you want this functionality and no one in the UK seemed to have written it up.
  14. First step in wiring up is to remove the female connector from the VW kit, just press in the two tabs. Then pull the two cable retaining covers open, these have the pin position numbers on them (they are very clearly marked compared to many connectors so I didn't need my specs!) so you can insert the cables into the connector as flows: from Porsche loom to VW connector Black/white green band 1 Black/green 2 Black/white 3 Brown 6 Black 7 VW loom to Porsche socket (from my numbering above) White/green 9 White 6 Green 3 Brown 8 Black 1 Test it at this stage to make sure function is as it should be by temporarily refitting the hazard relay (wrong way up first time for me...) so you know all is OK. The next challenge is where do you put all the connectors and cabling. I fed the VW socket with the connections to the hazard socket back through the hole in the dash and then behind so that it sits in the opening behind the speedo position. this leave a small bundle of cables that will pass behind the pod in front of the dash to the hazard socket but does not prevent the pod from going back into position. I actually disconnect the pod to do this but having done it once I could probably have managed without. Then feed the relay block (wrapped in foam to reduce potential rattling behind the dash and secured with the cable tie supplied in the VW kit!) and feed it to the left towards the centre of the dash, The wiring to this can then be looped in the opposite direction and all is neatly stowed away. So the tricky bit is done. Re assemble the pod onto the dash, fix the two T20 screws, insert the hazard relay (the right way up...), clip in the mic cover and the hazard switch cover back in position. Took me under an hour even with my 4½ year old grandson 'assisting' and stopping to take pictures so around 45 minutes would be realistic and under £50 budget. I have found that if you hit the stalk very quickly you get a quick flash and then the 3 flashes which has been reported on the US forums, I imagine this is the Porsche flash followed by the VW flashes then kicking in.
  15. First step is to release the instrument pod in the usual method, start by taking the cap off the hazards switch and use the long nose pliers to pull out the relay the cover attaches to. Remove the T20 screw from beside the socket. The take out the microphone cover on the right of the unit and remove the T20 screw. Then pull up on the pod to unclip it from the retaining clips. Turn the unit so you can see the underside of the hazard switch plug and hold back the clip in the left to release the unit. Not the large yellow rectangle on the bottom of the socket, the socket needs to go back in this way round. Once released turn the socket over and you will see the 3 yellow rectangles of the wire retainer. Using a small screw driver blade apply pressure on these to push the wire retainer out of the socket. Looking at the face of the socket you can see a number 1 in the moulding. The pins the number right to left. You need to remove the black wire from 1, black/green from 3, black/white from 6, brown from 8 and Black/white with green band from 9. I found the terminal removal tool I got took a bit of getting used to but all came out OK once I got the technique except the brown wire which is thinner, don't know if there is a link. Another view of the socket showing terminal to take out, basically all 3 down the nearest edge, far top corner and middle bottom. Now to connect in the kit. The wiring diagram is a modified version of the one from the instruction in the VW kit that was on 6speedonline. The important bit to pay attention to is that the lose wire connectors from the connector from the add-on kit need to connect to the corresponding position that the wires were remove from in the hazard switch socket as there seems to me to be some conflict between the UK spec loom and the US spec looks in the 6speedonline write ups.
  16. I'm starting this to make sure I force myself to complete the project, so here goes. Because I'm a lazy *** I like the one touch 3 flash indicators fitted to many cars so with a bit of research I've found the parts and the method to use an official VW retro fit kit and it has frustrated me that my 2000 986 does not have this feature so here goes. Kit: VW Part No. 000 998 229A (around £45-55 on eBay). Mine came from a VW main dealer selling on line and was the cheapest at the time Tool list: T20 torx, long nose pliers, small flat screw driver, terminal extraction tool (<£5 on Ebay) Consumables: Insulation tape, cable ties. Now to follow the instructions found on 6speedonline: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-turbo-gt2/325688-3-blink-turn-signal-relay.html https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-turbo-gt2/334093-3-blink-turn-signal-relay-mod.html Both helpful resources for this project.
  17. Just a note on tools for this, a normal 6 or 12 point 10mm socket will work ont eh seat fixing bolts, no need to purchase 'female torx' or 'E' type sockets. Just had my passenger seat in and out with no problem and no special socket. May not be recommended, but works!
  18. Interesting you got an advisory for a corroded brake line, since toughening the test earlier this year it is now a major fail even with a friendly tester I've used for years....! I got mine cleaned up to bare metal with emery cloth at the clip under the passenger door and lightly greased it so the tester could clearly see the bear metal to get it through on re-test and have since repainted and greased it back into the clip both there and at the clip near the front left wheel.. I have to do the lines as good preventative maintenance now I know there was an issue but I haven't got a flare tool. Do you reckon it would be feasible to tackle this doing the whole lines front to rear on axle stands @Nobbie ? Also if you have the pictures?
  19. So cruise control retro fit complete in terms of physical work, just need to get the my indy for programming and hopefully all works. The instruction on this tread are pretty much perfect. As ever with these jobs if I were to do it again it would be much quitter but I estimate it to around 4 hours to do this work, I also ended up stripping out a load of wiring and modules for an after market tracker and a phone kit which slowed things a bit. Nicest surprise is that I didn't scrap any more crimps and the 4 that go into plug IV on the ECU just glided in unlike the dash connector and the 4 pin cruise control plug. Thanks for the fantastic write up @JonHoward42 , gave me the confidence to tackle it and the information made it relatively painless.
  20. Resurrecting an older thread, however I have found this a great resource material and along with some additional information in my 101 projects book and some input from @Richard Hamilton it gave me the confidence to have a crack at this myself even though the only auto electrics I've risked before has been head unit changes or fitting auxiliary spot lamps. I'll add to this post any useful tips I find as I go along under each section of the job. WIRING I have made up the loom in advance of taking the car a part using the advice from @JonHoward42in the posting. Notes so far is that soldering on the crimp terminals has to be done leaving minimal residual solder otherwise the female pins won't sit in the plug connectors correctly. After scraping on crimp terminal I decided to leave the connectors dry and trust my crimping. You don't need a specialist crimping tool (I used small long nose pliers) and I place the stripped end of the cable into the terminal and wrapped the two small end tabs onto the insulation first to secure it in place. Then by putting pressure at about 45° I stated to fold in the two terminals onto the stripped wire, then once both were folded 45° I crimped them flat on to the cable to complete the secure connection. In fitting the terminals into the cruise control plug for the stalk assembly I found a small blade screw driver handy to push the crimp terminals home so the cover clips home easily, took me a minute to work out why the cover wouldn't close but a couple of the terminals had not seated. I wasn't quite as thorough as @JonHoward42 with the fabric tape but I used insulation tape every 100mm/4" to bundle the cables allowing approx. 300mm/12" for cable for the dash connect cable free and likewise running the cable from pin 2 to fuse B7 in line with the others and then allowing a good long tail at about the pint it needs to dive into the fuse panel. Pic attached. Another tip is that I ran the cables over the top of a door to use a bit of gravity help to hang the loom straight as you pull the cables down whilst applying the insulation tape to bundle the loom. This would also definitely help if you do the full wrap in fabric tape. In terms of materials the VW cable is not essential. The crimp pins come as a strip of 10 from Porsche and to avoid further solder or crimp joints I elected to put a new terminal on a continuous cable from the ECU to the dash connector. You only need 9 crimp terminals to do the project this way so you have one 1 spare which I've used on the soldering test. I had in fact ordered a VW cable and a set of 10 male & female VW/Audi pins as well as the Porsche pins so as I haven't finished crimping the cables at the ECU end I have plenty of spares but we have 2 VWs in the family so may come in handy.
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