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Hewey

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    986 Boxster S 3.2

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  1. I used a small battery impact gun. Moved easily!. Makita copy £39 from flea bay two years ago. I dont think you have enough room to use a manual strike impact driver. If it has been locktite on a small amount of heat applied to the bolt may loosen the loctite. Good luck.
  2. Due to the small amount required and I knew I would not get all the old oil out. I opted for oil from Porsche. Unfortunately it is branded in their own container. No clue as to who may have supplied it other wise.
  3. I used OEM Porsche transmission oil. Only needed 1litre for my car from empty so decided to stick with recommended. My car has a tip gearbox so the final drive and and the transmission are different oils. I believe a manual box uses the same in both! But please check.
  4. I had an oil leak from my drive shaft back in October 2022 and have just got around to sharing my experience. The oil leak was not leaving any spillage on the floor and was discovered when I remove the wheel to check the brake pads pre MOT. A Reasonable amount of oil around! Set about removing the hex studs around the drive shaft. Need about 24'' of extension bars to get the breaker bar on and beyond the body work though. They were impossible to remove on my own as I could not support the bars and put enough force on the breaker bar. Fortunately my big impact gun removed them easily. I was cautious as I didn't want to shear the studs. All Studs removed safely. Unfortunately the drive shaft wouldn't move far enough away from the flange to allow removal of the flange. The exhaust was split and the cat removed to allow the shaft to drop far enough. Thank fully all the exhaust system was stainless including bolts. Fitted pre my time. The rear bolts of the cat pipe to the silencer was surprisingly slack. This may be why she has been throwing some emission codes occasionally? Resealed with paste when she was put back together so time will tell. Drive shaft lowered and cleaned around the area. Marked the flange and the housing so as to get them back in the same place. May or may not make a difference. Center stud has been loosen ready for removal and removing the flange. Decided at this point to try and remove the diff oil. The official Porsche way is to split the casing that the flange sits in and release the oil. you can just see one of the said studs sitting at 1 o clock above the drive shaft. 12 of these altogether. I didn't fancy this in case the sealing ring didn't re-seal so opted to vacuum pump it out. The vacuum pipe would not fully go to the bottom of the diff casing so opted to take out as much as possible. Only managed to remove 0.4litres. The diff holds 0.8 litres when filled to the level plug. I put back 0.5Litres when I re filled it at the end. So I had lost 0.1 litres of oil due to the leak and so have only changed about 65% of the oil. Better than nothing . The old oil from the diff looked to be in good condition. Will re visit this in 2023. The Flange was easy to remove with very little force. Note the brown mess on the seal seating area. This was cleaned off before re fitting using brake cleaner so as not to score the surface. Out of focus, sorry. Flange is removed and and the seal exposed. Brown ring. Removed this by drilling a small hole in the seal, without touching the casing, and putting a self tapper into it. Tried to pull the seal out using a pair of mole grips on the self tapper. Didn't want to move. Before putting a second self tapper in, opposite the 1st, I used a small sliding hammer attached to the mole grips. So easy with the right tools. Seal removed exposing the bearing race behind. New seal gently tapped back till it is fully seated. Not a slack fit but not requiring too much force. Note this seal is black and not brown. I ordered the wrong seal from Porsche and as it took a week to come opted to us the local bearing supplier for the replacement. 75-90-8 is the seal size. Apparently the brown colour signify use in extreme conditions or in contact with corrosive liquids. As the composite differences where temperature related, the brown seal about 5 degrees C lower to -40 C. I've taken the view that I'll have little chance of problems. Time will see. Price difference of £11 for the black one and £64 from Porsche! Re assembly is the reverse. Torqued the studs back up to 81Nm as per the 'Bentley Manual' There are locking tabs on the studs in pairs. You can make them out in the picture. I used loctie also. This had been used before and was the reason for them being so tight. Was properly done when the CV joints and drive shaft was done, again pre my ownership. Gave it a good clean off underneath and on top of the aluminium reinforcement plate. This is were most of the oil had been sitting. Not too difficult a task to do and took about 1.5 hours including cleaning. Was also quite satisfying to do . 300miles and no leak so far.
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