Jump to content

Gramps

Members
  • Posts

    375
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by Gramps

  1. 11 minutes ago, NutsyH said:

    That "extra bulk on the end" (the cooling fan) screws off to fit the bulbs into the spring clip holder, then screw back on again.

    Ahh. That might explain it 👍. I obviously missed that possibility 🙄

  2. 7 hours ago, Sentinel261 said:

     

    here you go…..

    Main:

    Nighteye H7 Led Headlight Bulbs, 350% Extremely Bright H7 Led Bulb 9000LM 72W, Car H7 Led Headlight Conversion Kit, 6500K Cool White Replacement H7 Headlight Bulb (2 PCS) https://amzn.eu/d/14UupIv

    Thanks. They look identical to those that I tried, but can't find my cancelled order for them at the mo. How did you get them to fit within the light housing? I just coudn't see a way of fitting them in there with that extra bulk on the end of them, from what I remember anyway 🙄

  3. On 3/17/2024 at 1:36 PM, Sentinel261 said:

    Thanks for your replies.

    I have fitted dipped headlight LED's and I have to say they are really very good. Great colour and spread, big improvement over standard. Passed MoT too.

    Have also upgraded other lights, fogs, interior, boots etc to LED and again great improvement.

    Only lights to replace now are mainbeam headlights as these are now relatively poor.

    Any suggestions for a LED replacement?

    Cheers

     

     

    What bulbs did you use if you don't mind me asking? Those I tried just would not physically fit in the headlight unit on my 987.2 😔

  4. I tried but couldn't get an LED bulb that fitted in the units, If someone has managed it on the 987.2 I'd like to know how, just didn't seem possible to me. So I went with up-grading the halogens and I'm quite happy with them now. 🙂

  5. 3 hours ago, Paul P said:

    that's interesting - clearly an issue in the pump since replacing the unit fixes the issues I had assumed the pump was mechanical  - thinking the solenoid activates a clutch of some kind? Or is it electric where the solenoid turns it on - so maybe a bearing sticking as it wears

    Out of interest - those who have had the failure - what mileage approx are you at ?

     

    The pump itself is definitely mechanical (driven off the end of the camshaft) and that side of it would seem to've been fine. I get the impression the solenoid side of it actually opens a valve that lets the high pressure through. It seems that maybe the solenoid was sticking but eventually opened and once open it was fine. Also no probs whatsoever once warm or even a few hours after stopping the engine, like bbrbob says if left till cold/next day or beyond then you were back to square 1. Who knows, may even have been just a bad connection to the solenoid that was cleared when it was disconnected?? God I hope not 🤣. I checked the piston and washers on the valve operated by the solenoid and all looks good, again if there was a mechanical issue with that valve I though I would've possibly seen something amiss. 

    Mine was high 80's when the problem was first noticed, but on googling some of the MY2009 & MY2010 cars that had the HPFP replaced by Porsche were well below 40k miles?? My MY2011 didn't qualify for free replacement by Porsche and it did last a fair while so maybe Porsche did rectify whatever the initial manufacturing problem was?? 

  6. 1 hour ago, Terryg said:

    Well gents you were spot on. Advice from indie was make sure battery was fully charged, advice from my local garage was to not touch the accelerator. So we connected up a battery pack and she fired up after much complaining but ran like a dog with "reduced power" message on dash. Did the computer thing (turned it off and back on again) and message disappeared and she ran perfect.

    Did an Italian Tune Up in Sport Plus.

    Connected reader which shows P1023 Fuel pressure to low on start up and P1026 Fuel high pressure implausible.

    Took her for another Italian Tune up for no better reason than this is my last week with her probably.

    I have access to full garage facilities, two post lifts etc., has anyone replaced one themselves?

     

     

    After much googling I was going to have a go at doing it myself as I came across a post from aguy that had managed to do it without lowering the engine which is normally required to gain access to all 3 of the bolts that secure it to the engine. You need a long reach E10 socket  but can't get one in there due to the restricted access between engine and rear bulkhead. This guy had used a normal length socket with a 6 sided to 4 sided adapter and  a spanner on that. If you want further details let me know 🙂. I was very fortunate that Porsche offered to fit it for free. Took them 3 days with sized gearbox mounting bolts and included taking the rear bumper of?? 

  7. I asked for my old HPFP back after it was replaced as I wanted to have a poke around on it. Once it kicked in it worked fine all day and wouldn't miss a beat so the mechanical workings of the pump were presumeably ok and the problem would appear to lay with whatever "activates" the pump. To that end there is a solenoid which I DC tested sticking 12v on it and that appeared to operate ok. I get the impression that whatever the issue is with the pump it is probably something minor which makes it hard to bite the bullet and dig deep into the pockets to get it replaced, which is one of the reasons I took so long to get mine done, by the time I bit the bullet stock had ran out and they were on back order. Maybe there's someone out there who will probably (well definitely) know more about the workings of these things than I do who might want to take a look? 

  8. 3 minutes ago, Terryg said:

    It is being sold through the specialist who serviced it last year, so they would have a good incentive to fix it. Problem is, they are the other side of the country.

      Hopefully they'll pin it down and it'll be an easy/cheap fix 👍

    • Like 1
  9. 2 minutes ago, Terryg said:

    Thanks for taking the time to reply, I suspect there has been something not 100% for a while but it never showed up at the last service. Hopefully I'll find out tomorrow, car will be up for sale this month so need to get it sorted.

    No worries. Hopefully it won't be the HPFP as they are not cheap to purchase (about £800) or fit (£500 at an Indy?). But at least they are available now, mine took 4months 😌. Neither of those scenarios  are appealing when  you're looking to sell. GLWTS when it comes to it and here to offer any advice from my hard earnt experience if I can 😅

    • Like 1
  10. 2 hours ago, Paul P said:

    @Gramps does this sound like the high pressure fuel pump to you ? 

    Hi Paul 🙂 (and @Terryg). 

    Wouldn't like to say it was the HPFP for sure. Mine never backfired in the 9 or so months I had the problem. 

    It would cough and splutter then possibly conk out or run with the "reduced power" error message, but it did always start.

    Ideally Terryg needs to get a OBD2 reader like the iCarSoft or similar that can read the HPFP output.

    Mine used to take 4,5,6 attempts to run properly but would start each time but I think some choose not to try and fire it up when there's a problem, which I can understand but it wasn't something that bothered me as I didn't believe it was doing any harm to the engine.

    I would offer to help but sadly Terryg is in Ireland but always here at the other end of the keyboard if I can help in any way 🙂

  11. Hi All.

    Has anyone out there refurbed their gearknob handbrake and gaiter?

    My handbrake has a few "nail/ring" chips out of it and the leather gaiter doesn't look as "supple" as it may have once done so was looking at getting all 3 refurbed, maybe in alcantara?

    Anyone got any advice of best options and where/cost.

    TIA

    Gramps

  12. 2 hours ago, bigrog said:

    Thanks for that, can you also verify the reverse and fog light positions are on both sides?

    I've got the same lights on my "white" edition. Yes there are reverse and fog lights on both sides. I took a couple of pics with them on but lighting was obviously pants. I can also confirm no probs with the lights. they are still working well and bring it bang up to date.

    IMG_5278 IMG_5279 IMG_8735 IMG_8731

     

  13. On 2/13/2024 at 9:44 AM, Chris D said:

    Bought a new ball joint splitter for the job. Couldn't get it on if I needed to though. I used the fork and a lump hammer in the end. As above, it wasn't getting re-fitted. 

    It's all a faff but it's not hard so as long as you can afford to take your time you'll save a fortune in labour. 

    My new ball joint splitter made by Neilsen. much better than my previous one. This one has a longer thinner section that allows you to get it inbetwee the arm and the rubber much better 

    IMG_5276

    Sadly the ball joint didn't play game 

    IMG_5275

    So damn awkward to get the ball joint splitter in there so ended up cutting the arm off, then straight in and popped out no prob

     

  14. 3 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

    I've got the Makita LXT battery system.  Their recip even without battery was just too much money!!  I'm obviously not a really hard core tool collector.

    All my cordless stuff (not that much of it but what there is) is DeWalt, strangely enough bought for me by my son for Xmas birthday etc. The amount I've spent on new tools to tackle these jobs it would probably have been cheaper to pay someone to do it, but where's the satisfaction in that? 😅

  15. 5 hours ago, ½cwt said:

    I have an Erbauer recip from Screwfix.  Cost about £50.

    I was wondering  whether to go for another corded one but opted for a cordless in the end. My son, who hardly ever used to do any DIY now must have the biggest private collection of DeWalt cordless stuff ever!! But he earns way more money than I ever dreampt of  and give him his due he has got really stuck into the DIY now. But guess what he didn't have?  A DeWalt reciprocating saw, typical 🙄😂. So sod it, went for a DeWalt one 🙂

  16. 1 hour ago, Jow said:

    good job Gramps! 

     

    sounds like I had the same problems as you :D my ball joint splitter also broke as well. 

     

    once the main bolt is out the rest of it is fairly easy! and putting it all back together is easy enough!

    Yeah, it's a pretty basic job, if only everything always went to plan 😂. New ball joint splitter turned up as planned, sad that you want to get out there and try out your new ball joint splitter, what a sad life I live. 😂

  17. 1 hour ago, ½cwt said:

    @Gramps, I should have said, split the ball joint before removing the tuning fork doing the onboard end...  As the ball joint is being scrapped you can be quite brutal. I used the pickle fork type and a big lump hammer as my original lever type splitter wasn't big enough.  Have since used a lever type on one and they go with a hell of a bang.

    Yeh they do go with a bang don't they. Done a few before which is probably why my splitter gave up the ghost on this occasion, bit of fatigue, plus I'd been using the "brutal" approach already in trying to get the fork part to go under the joint adequately. New splitter should be here today. Sadly the place I ordered the saw from called this morning to say they were out of stock, not surpised as they were about 1/2 the price of anywhere else, so yet another order stuck in elsewhere. Grandson minding duties today but did manage to get under there to check the rear coolant sleeves where the manifolds join the rear pipes. Order placed with Spyder for coolant pipe parts. Already got the main pipes and forward sleeves from Porsche as they were cheaper from there but the rest were cheaper from Spyder, who are not too far from me. Something to keep me occupied once the warmer weather comes. 

  18. Well, half way there. Tuning fork just unbolted and moved out the way, seemed very loose vertically but couldn't feel any play in it. Then it got trickier. Main bolt was seized in the bush sleeve, ended up resorting to the reciprocating saw. I was working on the nearside as that was the one with play in the ball joint and attempted to cut through the the bolt nearest the front of the car 1st. Went in through the small visible section of rubber bush using the outer collett as a guide. Initially went in from above but seemed to be getting nowhere so removed the undertray to allow better access from below. That seemed to work better but still seemed slow but eventually the bolt head dropped out. hurrah. Then set about the "nut" side. Again went in via the visible rubber section and that side took just a few mins. Things were looking up.

    Then tried to seperate the ball joint. A real pain getting the splitter in where the rubber gaiter is and then trying to get the top section of the splitter to stay on the top of the ball joint thread (with the nut flush with the top of the thread. So I turned the nut upside down so it had a greater surface area for the splitter to contact but I also positioned the nut so it was a little proud of the thread so the splitter had something to bite into and that worked a treat.

    So the offside was now looking a lot easier as I had a plan. Wrong. Tuning fork came off ok so set about the main bolt, took me ages to realise the bolt wasn't actually undoing and the whole bush was turning with it 🙄😂. When I had a go at the nut side the nut came off no trouble. So a seized bolt again. No problem, know what to do now. Sadly the saw thought different and shortly after starting the cut it just started whizzing and no blade motion. Took it apart later and the main bearing casing had disintergrated, New saw ordered. So I moved on to the ball joint. Again a pain getting it in there to grip but eventually it did, only for one of the lower arm prongs to snap off. Time to call it a day. New ball joint splitter ordered.    

  19. On 12/16/2023 at 8:47 AM, Jow said:

    just an update, i have another mot on monday with a local garage instead of halfords, i had a word with the guy and asked if he could do the emissions first and he seemed find with it. so i'll take it for a spirited drive before hand :D hopefully that gets me through, if not ill sorn it and sort out the exhaust in spring :D

     

    so any tips for getting it through? ill fill her up wit the esso 99+ fuel and red line it a couple of times, which is getting harder and harder living in wales.......

    So how did it go? Just wondered as I've just had very similar issues with my 987.2 S 🙂

  20. On 2/5/2024 at 1:58 PM, Chris D said:

    I've just done this on my 2005 987.1 S.

    Rears only atm. Took my time, over a few weekends / evenings in my home garage.

    I replaced the coffin arms, tuning forks, tie rods and drop links. I also changed the ARB bushes. Spyder performance.

    I fitted new bolts. I got the bolt kit from Spyder too although the tuning fork bolts can be re-used or get them from an OPC (£9 each for the chassis bolt).

    Tuning fork M14 bolts - 160 Nm. Everything else was either 110 or FT.

    Tuning fork bolts came off no issue. I re-used the nut and bolt on the coffin arm connection. Re-use the essentric washers on the coffin arm/tie rods too. You'll see what I mean. Put some copper grease, or ideally ali paste on the bolt shafts for the arms and drop links.

    Coffin arm & tie rod bolts had to be cut off using a recip saw. I used 6 bosch blades in total. 225mm long.

    Drop link - I learnt the hard way. It's easier (trust me) to drop the damper and undo the drive shaft hub nut and work it on the floor. You cut off the knuckle side of the drop link with a metal cutting disc (grinder) and use the 18mm hex that remains with a decent impact wrench & socket. Plenty of plus gas - soak overnight. OS took 3 hours with heat, plus gas & a lump hammer. NS took 3 mins using the former method.

    With the strut off it's easier to cut the arms / bolts with the recip saw. Better access. I cut the arms in half before attacking the bolts.

    As above - take your time.

     

    That sounds like it was a bit of a mish. Will be attempting my fronts very shortly. Hopefully the rears will last a bit longer yet

  21. 49 minutes ago, Paul P said:

    Recent experience with OPC and cross over pipes is it’s 2k ish   

    Mine were done under warranty I picked up the parts costs for bits that weren’t (or couldn’t be made to ) leak.  Cost me about £300.  
     

    if I was paying for the whole deal it would be going to Steve @ goshallwerks in sandwich  

    I'm not holding out much hope, but thought I'd ask as it was in there anyway. Probably do it my self when the weather improves but might give Steve a call. He was quite reasonable for the pump, if I was going to go down that road. 🙂

×
×
  • Create New...