Bradders59

Done a little bit of research and I think its a tilt sensor ?

986 618 265 01

At 20.30 in the video, there is another smaller module visible under the seat. Im curious as to what it is, because mine has a wring plug there  but no module.

Presumably its not something vital ? 

Removed the headlights to do a bit of restoration on the lenses and fit new dip and sidelight bulbs.

On refitting I had the same issue with both. Cant get the wiring plugs to connect properly.

Currently have only a sidelight on one side and only main beam on the other.

Both connectors have quite a bit of movement in the holders, and I can see that some of the plastic has broken off on the connectors where they sit in the holder..

Im guessing I will have to remove front wheels and arch liners and push the connectors in from the rear ?

Are you certain the IMS and RMS were done, or did the dealer just provide a piece of paper to say they had ?

I think I would get an engineers report on the car and depending what it throws up, decide to go for a full refund.

Something really wrong there in my opinion.

Im currently trying to decide whether to sell mine in the next couple of months, as it is. Or, tidy it up cosmetically over the summer and then sell it next spring.

I cant afford to run three cars, and the Boxster is a luxury / toy / project, so it will be the one that has to go unfortunately. 

Would you really want Tiffany Dell or Jason Plato ragging your car to the redline and smoking the tyres sideways in the bends for a TV programme ?

£180  according to Meerkats today. The only advantage of being old I suppose. 

Brother in law has a lovely 987 purchased from a member here. He called me yesterday and asked if he bought a spare wheel from a 986, would it fit in the frunk, and would it fit the hubs of his car.

I had no idea, but Im sure someone here has investigated the possibility at some point ?

My 986 has the usual problem of locking not working, more than likely due to water ingress under the passenger seat.

I would be very interested in trying an aftermarket remote locking as a possible cheap solution to the problem.

Not sure if it would need the original ECU to be working properly though, so it can piggy back from it ?

Says " for parts or not working", so I would hazard a guess indicators not working.

I would have a punt at £20 and try a repair, but £50 is ridiculous for a broken one. 

3 hours ago, markjh said:

If it's just play then it's not quite the same problem that Jeff was fixing in the video, that was for the indicators not cancelling, which is the issue I had, caused by two plastic lugs breaking off. Lots of play could be a precursor to complete failure, but even if it's something else the video will help you with stripping and rebuilding.

A couple of things from my experience doing this:

1. Clean, clear work area and take plenty of time, nothing difficult but it is quite fiddly and there is lots of opportunity to drop something that is small and important...

2. Jeff uses epoxy adhesive, after failing with super glue, to refit the broken lugs. I ended up using 'J-B Weld PlasticBonder' which gave a much better result than my first try with epoxy. 

3. If you do replace you'll find they are expensive new and used 986/996 units are getting harder to come by so are correspondingly pricey, I was told that the 944 indicator stalks are the same - but you'll need to check this yourself as ended up being happy with the repair so didn't investigate further.

 

I would echo that, other than I used a glue stick from a hot glue gun as adhesive. The switch unit feels solid to use and has been working perfectly well for the last year.

I suppose the glue could give up the ghost at some point, but time will tell.

Its certainly a perfectly feasible fix, with the only thing up for debate is which adhesive will work best.

I wouldnt rule out a faulty coolant temperature sensor.

If it isnt telling the engine ECU that the engine has warmed up, the injectors will keep pumping far too much fuel into the cylinders, which would have a similar effect to a duff MAF giving the wrong info on the amount of air going into the cylinders.

Definitely needs diagnostics though.

Might be worth looking on the forum map to see if anyone near you has Porsche diagnostics. 

Im thinking of selling mine, once I put it through MOT next month.

Bought it for a bit of fun, which it has given plenty of, but running three cars and not putting many miles on two of them is getting a bit hard to justify.

Will decide for definite soon, but I think if I was offered over £3000 for it once MOT,d I would take it.

Its cosmetically scruffy, but mechanically pretty good. 

Excellent, thanks. 

Im not bothered about trying to get remote locking. Would just like to have the central locking working, so the passenger door can be locked when I lock the drivers door. 

Do you know how much JMG charge for repairing ECU due to water ingress please ?

I have the same problem courtesy of previous owner.

Your right. I hadnt noticed to be honest.

Porsche Boxster 2004-2012 Cabriolet Front Gas Strut (sgs-engineering.com)

Ive taxed worse. 

The man is a hero !

Im 64 and I struggle to motivate myself to do much, especially when the weather turns cold.

I had similar a couple of months ago. Took the doorcard off and sprayed contact cleaner around everything electrical inside the door and its been fine since.

May be worth a try before playing parts darts ?

I would imagine bridging the terminals in the wiring plug to the switch with a paperclip or similar,  will prove (or not) if the switch is the problem.

May be possible to do that by unplugging it from the switch without completely removing the console ?

It been a while since I removed mine so cant remember exact location. Possibly remove floor of storage box in console .

Not sure to be honest, but Im sure someone else will be able to be more definite. 

I think your correct. 

Me too. 1/4" drive, 6mm socket if my memory serves. 

Ive just gone from 18" to 17". Havent used the car that much in the last couple of weeks, but when I have the difference in ride is quite noticeable in my opinion.

It never going to be a magic carpet ride though. 

Last week I thought I had fixed the phantom horn problem by putting a little Tiger seal around the rubber bushes on the horn bracket.

When I went for a drive though I found I had only made a slight improvement.

So I did the job again yesterday making sure I forced as much Tiger seal around the bushes as I could, and then popped some little O rings in as well, taking theebelt & braces approach.

Just put everything back together and Im pretty sure its sorted now. If anything its a bit too sorted, as there is only one point on the steering wheel (middle top of the airbag) where a push will sound the horn.

It may "loosen off a bit" in time, but Im happy to live with it as it is if it stops the problem from rearing its head again.

Not many things more embarrassing than the car in front thinking your blasting your horn at them for no reason at all.

Now need to sort the window drop issue. See thread in technical section.