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Berty987

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    Boxter 987 S

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  1. Berty

    I'm messaging you to ask your advice ,as you've been down a similar path and seem very knowledgeable on the subject of Boxster Mods. I'd be very grateful if you could give me a bit of advice or point me in the right direction, I've already read loads of your posts which have been interesting and well written btw

    I want to thicken the Torque curve lower down the rev range of my 987 3.4 295 hp Boxster S, if I have understood yours and other posts correctly I will not gain much from changing the throttle body and plenum on my car, and may even lose Torque without the correct  remap?

    So with that in mind I was planning to remove/drill the cats from the existing manifold and remap the car with a live map from a respected tuner. I would like a bit more noise from the exhaust too, but can not stand any sort of drone as it's a daily, the most I would do for noise is probably the carnewal mod which I could have done at Revolution Porsche near me in Leeds

    I would of course like to boost the BHP and Torque through the rev range, but I'm realistic and as much as I like to red line the car, it  doesn't see it that much, so gains need to be throughout the rev range.

    I used  to have a BMW E46 M3 and it came with a after market  free flow exhaust, which definitely decreased Torque in the mid range , but absolutely flew at the top end and your could feel the extra power, so i'm wary of messing or sacrificing Torque low down in a daily driver

    What do think  the best combination of modifications to achieve the above and what peak figures are likely on the 3.4. I've read 360 bhp, but I'm pretty skeptical, I'd be ecstatic with 340 bhp and a fatter Torque curve, but I am looking to do all this with blowing a load of cash, the idea of spending £1200 on an exhaust makes me need a sit down tbh, well I am from Yorkshire :)

    My car has done 62K and is on original shocks and springs, when I brake hard the nose dives too much for my liking, I'm guessing the shocks are worn out at this mileage? 

    Trouble is, the shocks are massively expensive for the Porsche for some reason, I have installed the Bilstien B12 kit on other cars with great results, thinking of doing it for this car too, any experience of suspension kits or mods on the 987?

    Lots of questions I know 

    Regards

    Adam

  2. Carnewal Exhaust up for sale....

  3. Carnewal Exhaust up for sale....

  4. If fitting a 986/996 space saver to a 987/997 you also need to de activate the PSM as the wheel diameter is smaller than standard and will trigger PSM and ABS faults on the dash. The faults will clear once the PSM is de activated after the car has stopped and engine has been re started or correct wheel fitted. The car will also sit slightly lower on the corner where the 986 space saver is fitted. Though the 986 space saver isnt designed for the 987 it will get you home in an emergency or to the local tyre shop if travelling abroad. I suggest getting both the 17" skinny space saver (105 90 17) as well as the jack and tools from a 986 rather than the 987 165 65 17 space saver as its both lighter and takes up less space. I believe that the 986 wheels will fit in the front trunk of a 986 if the tyre is flat , someone with a 986 may be able to confirm.
  5. trying to send a message Will , your inbox is full ?

  6. I mentioned a few years ago, that the 996/ 986 17 inch space saver will fit on a 987 / 987S. Since I had to change the rear tyres at the weekend , I took the opportunity to photograph the stowage location for the removed wheel on the rear trunk / boot. Using some simple bungee chords and a rubber mat ( all of which can be stored in the spare wheel cover ) the removed rear 265/35/19 wheel can be carried on top of the rear luggage compartment to a convenient point to have the puncture repaired or tyre replaced. The only addition I would make to the photographed procedure would be to raise the rear spoiler to act as an additional stop to ensure the wheel is supported a little more. The procedure allows for a swift roadside repair without compromising the passenger or luggage already in the car. Carrying a spare wheel will also allow for onward travel should the tyre glue be unable to repair the tyre as in the case of a ruptured sidewall or significant split (ie hitting a pot hole). The first step is to change the wheel , If you buy a used wheel with the foam insert containing tools you have everything you need including jack and wheel spanner. The 986/997 17" space saver is a 105 section , so can fit in the front luggage compartment and still allow space for a suitcase. The next step is to fit the bungee chords to the slots on the underside of the rear luggage/ boot cover. The more chords you use the more secure the load in transit Next you need to ensure all the ends are on top of the cover before closing Place a rubber mat over the top of the cover to protect the wheel and paintwork. It also prevents slipping. I guess you could use the interior car mats for this if nothing else was available. Gently place the wheel on top of the boot cover , remember the rear cover is aluminium so can dent easilly if you drop the wheel on it. And ready for onward travel , Ideally I would raise the spoiler too , to act as additional support.
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