Jump to content

Mark Lane

Members
  • Posts

    47
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Mark Lane

  1. Finished my CarPlay installation 

    49878658296_6f16d5ba7b.jpg

    Managed to re-use the existing GPS antenna (made up an adapter cable from GT5-1PP -> AVIC green) and microphone (made an adapter from the PCM blue plug to a 2.5mm jack and reduced mic gain from 3 to 2) to reduce the amount of wiring and keep the OEM look. 

    Mounted the USB sockets in the cigarette lighter socket aperture.

    Very pleased with the finished job.

    Cheers,

    Mark

     

  2. 1 hour ago, ½cwt said:

    Whilst on this for a 2000 Boxter S rad grilles should the factory colour be silver, metallic grey or black?  There evidence of possibly all three of these on my grilles...🤔

    I faced the same quandary (mines a 2001 car). The horizontals seemed body colour (ish) and the verticals some faded grey finish. In the end I painted the whole lot in body colour

    49760711306_375bc68303_z.jpg

    Cheers

    Mark

  3. It's a great bit of kit, albeit clearly not cheap. I built a Caterham 7 about 10 years ago with my Dad and he decided he was too old to be crawling around on the floor, so he bought the lift to make the build easier. It's paid for itself over in the last 10 years having been used for all manner of jobs on all sorts of cars which would otherwise be too difficult to do at home. 

    • Like 1
  4. 49737680546_d1fe0d4382_z.jpg

    Using lockdown as an opportunity for a full brake refresh including painting the calipers, new dampers, discs and pads, bleed nipples. 

    Yesterday successfully stripped all 4 corners. Other than slightly recalcitrant pad pins at the front, all came apart perfectly with no stripped threads, no need to drill out disc screws and no seized bleed nipples. 

    (N.B. rear bumper was off to repair rear heat shield fixing front bumper off to clean leaves from condensers and fit mesh)

  5. 15 minutes ago, Terryg said:

    We will go with mine for now, as I would like it done asap and involving others inevitably slows it down.

    Thanks

    Thanks Terry. Can you PM me a contact email address so we can make some arrangements? I'll get the parts order into Porsche this afternoon so hopefully they'll be available early next week.

  6. Hi @Terryg

    Cool. I am away on holiday from 15th for a couple of weeks but I should just about be able to get one finished before I go away (assuming Porsche can get the connectors in time - they have to order them in from Germany)

    Regarding others, if you could get, say 3 others who want one, I could take £10 off the price of each one. 

    Cheers

    Mark

  7. Hi @Terryg tried so send you a PM but didn't work, so pasting my message here : 

    Thanks for your message. That's odd that previous units only worked on some cars. I opted not to use the cigarette lighter power for a few reasons :

    1. On my car (MY02) it's live all the time which would mean that the unit is powered round the clock. I've measured the current draw when idle at about 20mA so it would probably take forever to drain a battery but it didn't seem good practice to install something which was draining the battery with the car turned off (even if it was tiny)

    2. I had a strict "no wiring butchery/fully reversible" policy so that I could go back to stock any time. There isn't really a simple way to get power off the back of the cigarette lighter connector without either splicing the wiring loom (which I hate) or trying to make up some sort of connecting wires with spade connectors which I didn't like the idea of.

    I do know that the behaviour of the cigarette lighter socket is different on different years of car - on some they are live all the time, and on some they come on only with the ignition (and then also go off when the starter is engaged). I also understand that some stay on after the ignition is switched off and then go off after a period of time. Perhaps that accounts for the differences between cars?

    I took my power off of fuse B6 which is responsible for "Direction indicator lights, power windows, convertible top" so that made sense to keep all the convertible top power provided from the same place - i.e. when the convertible top mech is "live" so is the 1 touch unit. 

    Let me know what you decide, absolutely no problem if you prefer to go with a different unit. 
     

    All the best

    Mark

  8. On 6/19/2019 at 10:01 PM, Terryg said:

    Just on the off chance (after two previous attempts) if you make any more I will buy one

    Hi @Terryg

    I'm happy to make one for you. It's quite time consuming to build and test the way I do it (I tested each stage as I go along, checking circuit board tracks for shorts, inspecting all the solder for dry joints etc, and also the final unit) so the price would be £120 including a tracked/signed for delivery to a UK address.

    I appreciate that's probably a bit more than people have charged in the past for these, but that includes a Porsche OEM connector (all properly crimped), careful component mounting and wiring.

    The unit will need power - for this I ran a wire across to the fusebox and used a piggy back connector with a 1A fuse. I can provide images and description of the install but it's all pretty straightforward as it uses the OEM connector to connect to the switch and colour coded wiring so you know which spades to plug into the harness. I've tested that the micro controller works all the way down to about 7 volts and up to 15 volts so should work for all battery/alternator conditions.

    Let me know if you're interested. If there were a couple of others interested I could probably drop the price a bit as it would likely save me time to build a couple at the same time, source the parts in bulk etc...

    Cheers

    Mark

  9. I finished the circuit board for the Arduino based 1 touch roof which I'd seen over on 986forum (and notice a few people on here have done). 

    Made a few changes to the circuit and the code and mounted the components on a board. Just tested it and it works a treat. 

    Will place in an enclosure and use an OEM connector and hopefully it will be small enough to fit in the cavity behind the switch in the dash. 

    47994888741_ce24c21446_c.jpg

    Cheers

    Mark

  10. 4 hours ago, John2000 said:

    I'm looking at adding cruise later but just missed out on a 3 stalk unit, how did you add OBC

    Yes, as 1/2cwt says, you need the 4 stalk unit. Then you make up a short loom from the connector on the stalk to the white connector in the back of the dash pod. It's fiddly and time consuming work rather than difficult. You then need to enable the OBC functionality with a suitable diagnostic device. I used my Durametric for this. 

    There is some good info on here already but I'm happy to share more of my experiences if it's helpful. 

    Cheers

    Mark

×
×
  • Create New...