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How to - 986 Clutch assist spring replacement


T24RES

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If your Boxster has a heavy clutch and you have to be the bionic man to operate it, then the first thing I would do is change the clutch assist spring. This is a £35 part which fits onto the clutch pedal and even if you later end up changing the clutch, this part is essential for optimal performance of the pedal.

BEFORE YOU CHANGE YOUR CLUTCH, DO THIS IT COULD SAVE YOU HUNDREDS OF POUNDS!

In my case, the clutch was heavy to the degree that my hip was aching after long drives and so heavy my wife couldn't drive the car. The biting point was half way up the pedal, no judder or slippage and the clutch felt crisp. I therefore suspect the clutch is not the original and sometime before I purchased the car had been changed. My car is a 12 year old 986 S with 87000 miles on the clock.

To complete this job you will need:

  • Clutch assist spring. Part number 996.423.081.19
  • A small pin or nail
  • Torch
  • Small flat headed screwdriver
  • Cross headed screwdriver
  • Pillow
  • Torch
  • Clothes line prop
  • A dry day
  • Patience

First of all put the roof down and remove the Perspex wind deflector if you have one fitted - will explain later!

Now remove the carpet trim pieces either side of the centre console. You simply pull the carpet to unclip it and then slide it out, towards the front of the vehicle. In the following picture, the brass bracket on the left side of the picture show the holes it clips into. I removed the leather covered side pieces of the console for clarity but there really is no need to remove these, unless you are worried about damaging them.

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Now it is time to remove two pieces of heater ducting which prevents access to the spring. To do this you will need a cross headed screwdriver and I suggest putting a pillow on the drivers side sill as you need to lie head first on your back in the footwell! smile_anim.gif

Before continuing, turn the ignition on and ensure the airflow is directed downwards only. This moves the linkage into a position where it is less likely to become damaged. You can turn the ignition off, the linkage will remain in position.

The first duct runs across the driver side footwell. It is pictured below and is released simply by compressing it, like an accordion, and removing.

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Next remove the ducting that runs behind the centre console. There is a cable tie holding some cables to the duct, snip it. Make a note of how the cables lie in relation to the ducting for when time comes to refit it .... Take a photo with your phone? There are two screws to remove on the driver's side and one on the passenger side. In the following photo, drivers side is the end with RL marked on it.

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Photographed from below, here is the first screw to remove.

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And the second, the hidden one! TIP: to find it note the two holes in the ducting.

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Now the screw on the passenger side. In the photo the screw is at the top to the left of the red cabling.

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Wiggle the duct out through the driver's side footwell. Be careful not to break any of the heater linkage behind the console.

Now remove the wiring from the clutch switch and then the switch itself. The switch releases by twisting through 90 degrees and gently pulling it. Not the best photo, but here is the clutch switch.

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Now time to remove the spring. Here is a picture of the spring I removed. It consists of the spring, pin and a cir clip to secure it. Note the small nail I used to retain the spring BEFORE removal - you can just about see it at the bottom of the photo.

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Put the small nail through the hole as described above. Make sure it is secure and can't fall out before continuing.

Use the long nose pliers to remove the circlip.

You now need patience to slide the pin as far as you can get it. Don't worry, the pin won't slide out all the way as the frame of the pedal box gets in the way. Just slide it as far as possible by levering it with a small flat headed screwdriver.

Now sit down and pump the clutch pedal a few times. This should allow the spring to pop out from the clutch pedal. If it doesn't slide the pin further and try again.

You now need to fully depress the clutch pedal and keep it there. I used a clothes line prop, one end on the pedal, the other against the bulkhead carpet (the carpeted wall behind the seats).

IF YOU DO THIS, PLEASE OBSERVE THE FOLLOWING!

The roof it down, and wind deflector is removed in case the prop slips and either goes through the roof or deflector! Also remember to ensure it is secure as your head will be next to the pedal in a moment! prod_stick.gif

Here is a photo showing the prop!

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And at the other end ....

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Back in the footwell, wiggle the spring free. It is held in by those two lugs on either side of the casing.

To refit, put the new spring with the lugs in the slots. Ensure that the spring is installed so the cotter pin is able to be removed by pulling towards you. DO NOT PULL THE PIN YET!

Now connect the top of the spring to the pedal pushing the connector pin into the pedal, it will clunk as it clips in. You may need to use a screwdriver to lever the pin in fully before refitting the cir clip.

As a final check make sure the lugs are located in the guides.

Now sit in the drivers seat and hold the clutch pedal in with your foot. Remove the prop. Slowly let the clutch rise until it is fully out.

You will probably find the cotter pin simply drops out. If not, back in the footwell and ensure the spring is still located correctly - that the lugs are still in the runners on both sides. If they are pull the cotter pin out with pliers.

Operate the pedal and feel how freely it now moves.

Reassemble the heater ducts and trim.

Hope it saves you several hundred pounds! icecream.gif
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Nice write up.......just one thing to add....maybe hover the carpet 1st before you lay head down on it! :whistle1:

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's a lot easier with the seat out and it's just one connector and 4 bolts.

For a larger chap, for example me, it's worthwhile.

:)

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  • 3 months later...

Please help me. I can't get that damn thing off. How do i do? It seem i don't have that exakt model with the bolt and the sprint (996.423.081.09).

Anyone have any ideas how to get this damned thing of. It squeakes like hell...

Thanks!

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Yeah more info needed. Can you start a separate thread in the technical section with more info and we'll chip in there

:)

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  • 4 months later...

Great DIY with excellent pics.

I reused the housing and just replaced the spring, so instead of a $100 Porsche part, I spent $10 on a spring !!

The only problem I had was In replacing the unit, the mounting bold fell into the clutch pedal, it is hollow!

I was able to push it out from the bottom, otherwise I would have needed a new bolt from the dealer. Its a non stock item and 3-5 days for delivery

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  • 1 year later...

Just done this and been for a drive ,was really easy to do and made such a difference pedal feels great goes into gear a lot better biting point of clutch is not as high , great thing to do would recommend to anyone who feels there clutch is not feeling to good :)

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  • 1 year later...
17 hours ago, eric adelaide said:

Hi Chaps

any one know how to get the photos to appear?

If you mean the ones in the original post they are lost and gone for good (see Photobucket has gone rogue' thread and lots of recent comments) unless T24RES finds another hosting site and edits his post.

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  • 1 year later...
  • 5 months later...

Interesting, I suspect I may need to do this.  As my symptoms are the same (heavy but not slipping etc) 

I can't seem to find a replacement part though for less than £65.   have they gone up in price that much since this was posted or am I looking in the wrong places?

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1 hour ago, thefunkygibbon said:

Interesting, I suspect I may need to do this.  As my symptoms are the same (heavy but not slipping etc) 

I can't seem to find a replacement part though for less than £65.   have they gone up in price that much since this was posted or am I looking in the wrong places?

A worn clutch on a Boxster rarely slips but certainly gets heavy...I think that if you're a contortionist you can see if the spring is broken

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ok i'll try to have a look then.  not entirely sure what and where i am looking as it still doesnt seem to be clear from the images in the OP quite where it is in-situ. 

also how can you tell it is broken from looking at it when the spring itself is covered up?

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My mechanic friend suggested that the assist spring only really affects the return of the pedal , not the "how hard it is to press down on the clutch" .   Is this correct ?  As the issue I have is how hard is to press down.  Also my fears are becoming increasingly clunkier to get into gear..

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2 hours ago, thefunkygibbon said:

My mechanic friend suggested that the assist spring only really affects the return of the pedal , not the "how hard it is to press down on the clutch" .   Is this correct ?  As the issue I have is how hard is to press down.  Also my fears are becoming increasingly clunkier to get into gear..

Sounds exactly the same as mine - heavy clutch, sharp take-up and difficulty executing a smooth shift, especially when driving spiritedly...

Mine's done 70,000 miles, clutch never replaced so it will be changed at the next service along with the flywheel, IMS, RMS etc.

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Did mine today and has made a noticeable  difference which was great. Great write up and easy to follow if not a little tight working upside down in the footwell. Couple of tips that worked for me. I used a small nail that are generally found on electrical clips for house electrics. Fitted well in the hole and didn’t slip through as they have a flat head. Also used a decorators extension pole instead of the clothes line as easy to adjust the length which helped me in lining up the pedal. 

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2 hours ago, Delaneycatz said:

Did mine today and has made a noticeable  difference which was great. Great write up and easy to follow if not a little tight working upside down in the footwell. Couple of tips that worked for me. I used a small nail that are generally found on electrical clips for house electrics. Fitted well in the hole and didn’t slip through as they have a flat head. Also used a decorators extension pole instead of the clothes line as easy to adjust the length which helped me in lining up the pedal. 

Nice work! 👍🏻 So what were your original symptoms, where did you buy your replacement part from and how much was it?

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10 hours ago, Stewart_H said:

Nice work! 👍🏻 So what were your original symptoms, where did you buy your replacement part from and how much was it?

Did mine today and has made a noticeable  difference which was great. Great write up and easy to follow if not a little tight working upside down in the footwell. Couple of tips that worked for me. I used a small nail that are generally found on electrical clips for house electrics. Fitted well in the hole and didn’t slip through as they have a flat head. Also used a decorators extension pole instead of the clothes line as easy to adjust the length which helped me in lining up the pedal. 

 

Purchased from local OPC as there are many options on the parts list. Cost just over £50.00. I always felt the clutch was a little heavy but not in the sense that it was on its way. Pedal now feels softer. Couple of images of old spring. On a side note the lugs on the new spring we’re slightly different and a little smaller, if anything made it easier to fit back in. If you haven’t done this and decide to give it a go don’t be put of when you remove the air pipes and look up into the space. My first reaction was this is never going to work with out removing half the dash. Follow this guide and all should be easy. First photo shows the pin I used

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BED7DE62-8D0A-42A6-9E93-3B54BD1062E5.jpeg

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My cars just ticked over 200,000 on same clutch, might look at this little trick as wife says clutch is a bit heavy when she occasionally drives it. I have noticed the bite getting higher, so might be worth doing.

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  • 1 year later...

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