witko999 Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 Just to resurrect an old thread, I recently fitted cruise to my 2001 Boxster S after following these instructions. As mentioned above, the wire between the instrument cluster and the DME was not required, although I ran it (unconnected) in the loom just in case. The cruise works fine and the dash bulb does indeed illuminate without the connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugos7792 Posted May 30, 2016 Report Share Posted May 30, 2016 Hello, I've done this to my 02 boxster, and it works, the thing is the light indicator doesnt turn on...will it because I didnt run the wire from the DME to the Cluster? I was scared to ruin the system but it seems it does never light on...what would you recommend? thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted April 27, 2019 Report Share Posted April 27, 2019 Resurrecting an older thread, however I have found this a great resource material and along with some additional information in my 101 projects book and some input from @Richard Hamilton it gave me the confidence to have a crack at this myself even though the only auto electrics I've risked before has been head unit changes or fitting auxiliary spot lamps. I'll add to this post any useful tips I find as I go along under each section of the job. WIRING I have made up the loom in advance of taking the car a part using the advice from @JonHoward42in the posting. Notes so far is that soldering on the crimp terminals has to be done leaving minimal residual solder otherwise the female pins won't sit in the plug connectors correctly. After scraping on crimp terminal I decided to leave the connectors dry and trust my crimping. You don't need a specialist crimping tool (I used small long nose pliers) and I place the stripped end of the cable into the terminal and wrapped the two small end tabs onto the insulation first to secure it in place. Then by putting pressure at about 45° I stated to fold in the two terminals onto the stripped wire, then once both were folded 45° I crimped them flat on to the cable to complete the secure connection. In fitting the terminals into the cruise control plug for the stalk assembly I found a small blade screw driver handy to push the crimp terminals home so the cover clips home easily, took me a minute to work out why the cover wouldn't close but a couple of the terminals had not seated. I wasn't quite as thorough as @JonHoward42 with the fabric tape but I used insulation tape every 100mm/4" to bundle the cables allowing approx. 300mm/12" for cable for the dash connect cable free and likewise running the cable from pin 2 to fuse B7 in line with the others and then allowing a good long tail at about the pint it needs to dive into the fuse panel. Pic attached. Another tip is that I ran the cables over the top of a door to use a bit of gravity help to hang the loom straight as you pull the cables down whilst applying the insulation tape to bundle the loom. This would also definitely help if you do the full wrap in fabric tape. In terms of materials the VW cable is not essential. The crimp pins come as a strip of 10 from Porsche and to avoid further solder or crimp joints I elected to put a new terminal on a continuous cable from the ECU to the dash connector. You only need 9 crimp terminals to do the project this way so you have one 1 spare which I've used on the soldering test. I had in fact ordered a VW cable and a set of 10 male & female VW/Audi pins as well as the Porsche pins so as I haven't finished crimping the cables at the ECU end I have plenty of spares but we have 2 VWs in the family so may come in handy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted April 28, 2019 Report Share Posted April 28, 2019 So cruise control retro fit complete in terms of physical work, just need to get the my indy for programming and hopefully all works. The instruction on this tread are pretty much perfect. As ever with these jobs if I were to do it again it would be much quitter but I estimate it to around 4 hours to do this work, I also ended up stripping out a load of wiring and modules for an after market tracker and a phone kit which slowed things a bit. Nicest surprise is that I didn't scrap any more crimps and the 4 that go into plug IV on the ECU just glided in unlike the dash connector and the 4 pin cruise control plug. Thanks for the fantastic write up @JonHoward42 , gave me the confidence to tackle it and the information made it relatively painless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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