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rear wheel bearing


chaz771
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Had one to do thought I would show what's involved.

Hand brake on and if need be someone on the foot brake, a good socket and a strong bar is a must! I had to sit on the bar and just bounce it till it gave! they are super tight being set at over 300lbs

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Edited by chaz771
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Wheel off and start on brake system removal, as always use good jacks and stands as you must take the handbrake off.

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pipe bracket bolt.

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sensor plug

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Edited by chaz771
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once caliper is placed out the way and disk is off your need to press the CV shaft from the hub this is my own made tool but there are plenty  tool options that will do this.

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Edited by chaz771
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Now you need to free suspension points to let you move the strut and get the CV out. remove just enough to make it happen, I removed the coffin arm inner bolt (remember to mark its position) rear arm outer ball joint and roll bar lower link rod joint.

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now for pulling the hub from the bearing....

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and..

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Edited by chaz771
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Pop! as you can see the hub comes with half the bearing! I'v done three bearing, all came apart like this.

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once the bearing retaining plate is removed you move on to getting the rest of the bearing out.

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Edited by chaz771
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Now its out your on the home run! clean the bore and a bit of light sand paper run about the bore is not a bad idear  then clean again and wipe about the bore with light oil.

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Very important to get the lead in of the bearing true I do this by checking at four points and creep the bearing in slowly adjusting its true by corrective taps with a hammer after about 10mm or so is "housed" it should stay true but do keep checking.

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bearing is fully home and put the hand brake system back, then on to pressing the hub in.

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Edited by chaz771
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Once the hub is home the CV can be put in place after a clean and re-grease of the splines, use the hub/CV nut to draw the shaft through.

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and to finish its a matter of doing the suspension and brake system, the coffin arm bolt needs to be placed correctly and set firm but only fully tighten once the wheel is on and suspension is full loaded and don't forget the hub nut I set mine about 250lbs as that all my wrench will set to!

Edited by chaz771
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Ps just as a foot note the puller and drifts are home made any of you with an engineering bent I can offer dimensions if you wish to copy the tool it took about 4 days to make and less than £90.

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8 hours ago, Tony Daniel said:

Nut torque should be 460 nM which is 340 pounds, a garage had left my drive shaft not properly tightened and there was movement in the rear wheel after a couple of weeks.

 

Thanks tony been good so far but will look to getting the right torque on it.

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