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How To: Remove 986 interior carpet


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Suggested Tools:

- Selection of male bits (no, not them - ones for undoing bolts!) - these should include some torx and allen heads, as well as some cross-headed attachments.  If you have fixed screwdrivers, that will do.  The actual screws used will depend on model year, and who's been there before you!

- Selection of sockets & spanners, especially a female torx set (can be had for <£10 off eBay)

- Some prying tools - a trim remover is useful, as it anything like a flathead screwdriver

- Patience


Overview of items to remove:

- Both seats

- Trunk/Frunk release sill trim

- Umbrella holder on passenger side

- Centre Console, including either the carpet lower console delete, or the lower console (depending on which one you have fitted)

- Accelerator Pedal and foot rest

- Handbrake/Gear selector mechanism



Do not turn the ignition on whilst you have the seat looms disconnected - there's no need, and it may trigger warning lights that aren't so easily cleared.  

If you are disconnecting airbags at any point, I'd suggest disconnecting the battery and allowing the system to settle for 30 mins or more.

I can tell you many a story of apprentices who wanted to put some music on whilst working inside a car on airbag equipment, and none of it ended well or cheaply!



Why would you want to do this?

Leaks aren't uncommon in the Boxster - and even if they have been fixed, you can end up with a couple of inches of thick foam under the carpet which will retain moisture.  This can be very weighty, and some times it's much easier to just remove/replace the carpet than wait for it to dry naturally.  It can also be an effective way to trace leaks or reduce weight (if you're into that kind of thing).


To start - here's a shot of my ebay female torx set, and the front bolt on the driver's seat (pink dot on head).  You'll see a tide mark around it - there are some plastic covers that need to be removed; these slide forwards, but should also have a screw to keep them in place.  The pic to the right is from Pelican Parts, and shows these in place.




It's a similar story at the rear of the seats, but this photo is from a 996 which has considerably more space behind.



Next, you'll need to disconnect the loom from the seats - again, don't do this with the ignition on! 

The loom is quite long and allows for a fair bit of give.



Next, you'll need to remove the plug (if still fitted) from the driver's side of the sill.   These cover the bolts which keep the trim in place - mine had some allen headed bolts deep into the trim recess.   These don't need to be completely removed, only loosened enought to allow the trim to 'slip' upwards.




You don't need to remove this, it's optional, but simply release the carpet from under it.   You can see the keyways that slide over the bolts, and thus why you don't need to completely remove them.  I did in this pic, and it would have been easier, in retrospect, to not have done.




Once you've done the passenger side (Driver's side on LHD cars), you'll see the hallowed Alarm ECU module - this shouldn't be doing backstroke, and hopefully the area will be completely dry



You can see the mini blade fuse that protects the alarm, and it's also a good idea to clean up/around it for perhaps many years of passenger dust/giantdeadmoths...





The passenger side trim is quite easy - under the rubber matting there's some torx screws





Next up, you'll want to remove the fusebox cover (mirrored here, as the car in pic is a LHD 996), and foot rest.   Undo the 4 screws holding the fusebox in.



Next, remove the accelerator pedal.   One mine, the pedal was held in by a shoulder-type joint, and easily dislocated by gently pulling forwards. There's a retaining screw behind this.


Once it is loose, the pedal needs to slide upwards before pulling it towards you.  Imagine it being mounted in a similar way to hanging a clock on the wall.





With the pedal free, the carpet should be now free to move around the driver's footwell




Next, undo both lower seatbelt mountings.



 Also remove the lower center console.   I didn't have one of these, so I've consulted Pelican Parts...


Begin removing the front center console by removing the two side trim panels on either side of the storage box: they simply pull off with a bit of force (green arrows).

Now remove the remaining storage trays from the front center console. Next, pull away the carpet trim that is located on both sides of the front console (green arrow).




Next, you'll need to remove the centre console (mine had the deleted lower console)...

First, unclip the gear gaiter.  On this model, you unclip the front first, as the rear levers and slots towards the front.


Pulling upwards on the gear knob will remove it.  I've had mine off to replace the gaiter in the last 6 months, so it slid off easily.  If your knob is a bit stiffer (:rolleyes:)   watch you don't accidentally pull too hard and end up with it in your face (again, :rolleyes:).


With this removed, there's a T15 Torx under where the front of the gaiter sits - remove.


Next, you'll need to remove the ashtray (or if you have the other kit, then whatever :laugh:).  There's normally a couple of T30 Torx screws under here, mine are more of a lightweight plastic securing rather than a traditional metal screw.  Lift the switch bank out once you have undone the screws, then undo the T15 screw below, visible in the recess.



Next, you will want to undo the switches.  Either unplug them, or pop the switches out - this can be done by rocking them along the shortest axis (side to side), or with the aid of a flathead.


The trim next to the handbrake should clip off easily...


Next up, remove the rubber mat from the storage box.  You'll find a single T15 securing the floor section underneath.  If you want to adjust the handbrake cable, go directly for this part.  Lift the floor section up.  If you struggle, you get pop it up using your fingers, accessible under where you removed the trim at the side of the handbrake..


There's another screw in the bottom left of the pic, T15 again, and you will next need to lift out the coin holder to access another screw (T15) under this.  The flathead is useful for popping the coinholder out, as it can be a bugger to do.


Watch the lockable compartment microswitch that lives under here.  You'll want to disconnect it first, or you'll risk breaking the switch itself (and you'll get a single beep from the horn each time you lock the car, should you c*ck it up).



The whole centre console should now be loose and can be lifted out.  You might need to angle this towards the driver's seat to clear the handbrake (this is how scratches can happen!)




All being well, the Centre Console should now be removed and reveals the gear lever unit.



The plastic cover over the front of the gear change will lift off easily, revealing the cables and connectors...


You don't need to undo the cables - there's an alternative option, but should you need to, consult the How To below:

The four 10mm nuts on each corner of the gear change unit can now be removed (optionally with cables still attached).




The gear shift unit can then be lifted out, revealing the true colour of your carpet!  These photos were done for the quickshifter job, so the seats shouldn't have magically reappered in yours!




Now, undo the retaining nuts for the handbrake




Next, undo the velcro at the bottom centre of the dash, behind where the lower console was




You should now be able to wiggle the carpet free.   It may be attached by glue around the footwell, requiring some wriggling.  For me, it seemed like it didn't want to come out at all, until I had the correct angle of attack.


You'll notice by this next stage that I still had by gearlever in one piece, cables still attached.  I also didn't move the handbrake much.   Instead, to make things easier, I cut a slot in the carpet around this area.   It doesn't really make any difference, and I'm not sure why Porsche didn't design it this way, but it's up to you which method you choose - it's much quicker to use a blade to cut the carpet though.




You'll see the cut at the top of this photo, right in the middle of the handbrake mount.  It's no different to how the carpet attaches around the bottom of the dash, in reality.



If you flip the carpet over, you will get an idea of how much density there is to the foam.  Mine had a receipt on file of a sodden carpet in the mid 00's, so bore the stains.  It's quite common, and will happen to most Boxsters at some point, unless you're on hand to keep on top of things.



My new carpet was in much better nick, but still needed a good clean - there won't be a better opportunity than before it goes in...




You might also want to give the bare floorpan a good vacuum too, and look for any signs of leaks/water entry towards the precious alarm ECU.  Note how the shape of the floor means a wet door bottom might have quick access to this area - almost like they designed failure in!


It might also be a good idea to replace any carpet grips that are past their best.  These keep the floor mats from moving around too much, and cost me around £5 each from Design 911.



Once you're happy, refitting is the reverse of removal!   


Take your time, don't rush it, and use the opporunity to get everything back in as clean and well-fitted as you can.





Normal stuff applies - take your time, don't do anything silly, don't cut your fingers off with the knife, don't attempt if you're a clumsy danger to yourself, and not my fault of BoXa.net's fault if you make a dogs dinner of it all!


Have fun!

Edited by cj225
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8 minutes ago, boxtaboy said:

That's a great write up! I hope I never have to remove the carpets, but it's good to know how to just in case. Thanks for posting!


Thanks - depends how OCD you get; I wanted to get the floor and carpet completely cleaned.

When I got mine, the passenger seat had loads of leaflets stuffed under it, so with all the big holes in the carpet, it needed to come out for a thorough clean/de-clutter anyway.

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  • 2 months later...

are the carpet grips supposed to screw into anything, or just "self tap" into the carpet ?

One of mine keeps coming away from the floor - thought I'd ask before removing the carpet to find out

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  • 1 month later...
On 2/20/2017 at 11:56 AM, Patt said:

are the carpet grips supposed to screw into anything, or just "self tap" into the carpet ?

One of mine keeps coming away from the floor - thought I'd ask before removing the carpet to find out


They self tap

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On 4/14/2017 at 7:59 PM, cj225 said:


They self tap

Thanks.  I need that too, as one of mine is in the wrong place and so the carpet drifts. B) 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Does anyone have the torque settings for the seatbelt anchor point? I need to remove and dry out / replace my carpet at some point. This how-to has given me a bit more confidence and inclination to tackle with a friend and some beers :)

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On 24/04/2017 at 8:16 PM, K.I.T.T. said:

Does anyone have the torque settings for the seatbelt anchor point? I need to remove and dry out / replace my carpet at some point. This how-to has given me a bit more confidence and inclination to tackle with a friend and some beers :)


I always just did mine FT.




Just noticed some dead images - refer to here for filling in the blanks


Edited by cj225
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  • 2 years later...

Just a note on tools for this, a normal 6 or 12 point 10mm socket will work ont eh seat fixing bolts, no need to purchase 'female torx' or 'E' type sockets.  Just had my passenger seat in and out with no problem and no special socket.  May not be recommended, but works!

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