Jump to content

Rebuilding my Wreck


ATM

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 678
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm sure this driveshaft has an o-ring on the end. 

... Update. 

Scrub that. PET2 appears to show it having a snap ring on the end (part number 9G1 332 820 00).

However, it also appears that where the driveshaft goes into, there's a small removable solid ''housing neck'' (part number 9G1 321 059 00) this is removable by removal of 5 torx bolts. This is to allow the replacement of the rubber driveshaft oil seal ( 9G1 332 804 01).

In summary then, it would appear then that if the snap ring has been ripped off you'll be able to remove the cover and get it out. I'd replace the shaft oil seal whilst you're there. 

Shaft oil seal - £11.35

Snap ring - £1.34

'' Drive flange long''  - £941.53!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No rings on it. It's a big heavy lump of steel so I can't imagine it's bent. I think the CV joints took most of the brunt as they both have split boots. But if that thing was wobbling round inside my box rotating at speed I can't imagine if was healthy. 

 

Sorry thought it was called a circlip. Can I replace o rings? Can I clean it up and then just shove it in without o rings?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

57 minutes ago, 89rallye said:

this picture is where your drive shaft hit during the accident so might have bent it slightly

I think this just snapped or was ripped off and caused that mark - maybe. This is where the flexi meets rigid so I'd guess that bracket held these to the inner wing.

 

20190210-115922.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So the wheel is on. All suspension is connected back up. I've left the caliper off as I'm not sure what's going in with the brake pipes yet and if I can use the disc my parts came with. My brake pads looked a bit low but they'll do for now to see if the car drives. I connected the big electrical plug and voila my handbrake works. I knocked the half shaft in with a bit of wood. It definitely clicked home. This isn't permanent but will hopefully allow me to get the car to someone who can check it. I turned the key and got ignition. I'm now down to 2 warnings only. No gearbox reverse / fluid low warning - maybe because the car is at a more reasonable angle - I have not put any fluid in. No battery warning. No PSM warning as the car can now detect the wheel speed sensor. No handbrake warning. I tried the handbrake and it worked. I then got my big 32mm socket on the drive shaft nut with a massive power bar and my 6 foot jack handle and loosened it. I tried tapping the drive shaft with a hammer but it didn't budge. So I now have a nice shiny new drive shaft which is way too long and my old beat up drive drift with 2 split boots. Maybe I can salvage the CV joints from the longer manual drive shaft and fit to my shorter shaft - not sure. My original CV joints could be fine - no idea. Not sure how I am goingto remove my old shaft from the broken hub without having a heavy car with a working handbrake to lean on. Any ideas please fire away. 

 

Questions:

 

How can I get old drive shaft nut off and the shaft from broken hub?

How can I get replacement driveshaft out of replacement hub - probably need some form of puller / pusher?

Do I get a mechanic to fix my brake pipes - it's probably beyond me.

Do I get the same mechanic to sort out the bracket inside the inner wing where rigid meets flexi?

Then do I try and get drive or have the box checked over first - how risky is it just starting car - once I have brakes - and trying to get some drive and reverse so crawling only - bearing in mind the half shaft has no snap ring, o ring or seals of any kind as far as I can see?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well that's a good days work,

i really wouldn't risk starting  the car just yet,

drive shaft nut off would be a vice job and good mechanic should have a press for removing the shaft a couple of cv boots shouldn't be to much

small tack weld should see the brake pipe bracket back on and pipe replaced

at least your rolling now

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, ATM said:

I'm totally incapable. But arms and struts are dead easy especially with reasonably new bolts and nuts. The wheel arch is massive on these modern Porsches so you have more room too. I'm trying to not spend too much before I know if the engine and box are sound. I could bolt on the new corner but that may need to come off again if the shaft isn't in the gearbox. 

 

The drive shaft bolts to the half shaft. It has 6 bolts. This is then basically a long straight bar with splines at one end and the 6 bolt cup thing at the other. It's probably 12 to 16 inches long. Like I say the diff is on the other side of the car so the opposite side will have a much smaller shaft maybe 3 or 4 inches only. The drive shaft you see will be identical on both side with a CV joint at each end. This shaft you wouldn't normally see. You would just see the 6 bolt cup thing on the side of the box and on the other side too.

 

I'll split it from the drive shaft today and take some pics. I think I found one on eBay. Checking...

Be aware of the half shaft on a previous 987 the end of the half shaft had sheared off ( went bang and lost drive)in front of the circlip, still sitting there until I tried to retrieve it ,then dropped into the diff housing, wich meant taking the drive shaft off the other side and pulling the crown wheel out etc, not a big job, but could of been a lot worse.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...