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What have YOU done to your 987 today


Tony Daniel

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Major service at Porsche Torque in Uxbridge. Needed new condensers, but pipes are corrosion free. 

Pretty pleased the car has been given a clean. bill. of health. 

#keeper

 

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Uh-oh, went to wash the car and had the idea to take look at the roof elastics before the wash. However, earlier today I opened the roof and when it was almost open heard a loud bang. When closing it again, another bang and the roof refused to close. So now both of the white rods with ball joint ends have snapped. I've read about this before, so I know the issue, but do you guys have good instructions for replacement? Is it something I can try myself (not super handy) or should I take it in for service?

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Thanks, it looks like it is easy and I've already ordered replacement ball joint caps. The car is still under a used car warranty from a dealer, so I might still take it in for Porsche for them to replace it at the dealers cost. Weather forecasts look really great for next week, would be a shame if I can't open the roof. ;)

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1 hour ago, Finbox said:

Thanks, it looks like it is easy and I've already ordered replacement ball joint caps. The car is still under a used car warranty from a dealer, so I might still take it in for Porsche for them to replace it at the dealers cost. Weather forecasts look really great for next week, would be a shame if I can't open the roof. ;)

Would be surprised if you get it done under warranty, but depends what went wrong. They usually break because the roof has not been unlatched properly before lowering (have a guess how i know!:whistle:). Very easy to fix. As Meno says, mark position of existing fittings before removal then just screw the new ones on to the same position. There's also a tool in the frunk kit to help push the joint onto the ball. N.B. make sure you get plastic replacements not metal or next time the fall out may be worse.

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Thanks! I'm pretty sure I did unlatch properly and the first loud bang came only when the roof was almost completely down already. However, that makes me wonder why it did break, could be an alignment issue with the roof?

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2 hours ago, Finbox said:

Uh-oh, went to wash the car and had the idea to take look at the roof elastics before the wash. However, earlier today I opened the roof and when it was almost open heard a loud bang. When closing it again, another bang and the roof refused to close. So now both of the white rods with ball joint ends have snapped. I've read about this before, so I know the issue, but do you guys have good instructions for replacement? Is it something I can try myself (not super handy) or should I take it in for service?

pretty straight forward. 

put tape on the rod threads to mark how far you need to screw the new caps down. Then align one shoulder and manually move the roof so the shoulder aligns. Use the bar in the tools to pry the shoulder on. Repeat for the other side. 

Both shoulders weren't aligned exactly, but an inch out, however it has made no difference to the roof mechanism as it was done 2 years ago and works fine. 

watch a few YT vids before starting 

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19 minutes ago, Finbox said:

Thanks! I'm pretty sure I did unlatch properly and the first loud bang came only when the roof was almost completely down already. However, that makes me wonder why it did break, could be an alignment issue with the roof?

They also shear as the plastic ages (ask me how I know).

 

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As others have said note the position of the head on the screw with tape.

Also check that the arms on which they are attached aren’t bent. If you need arms they come with the ball joints at about £50 a side from an OPC before discount.

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1 minute ago, Paul P said:

Ptfe spray lube on the joints to finish off. ( along with ball the folding bits of frame )

and while you are there check the drains and make sure they are clear.  

“Wot he said”.  If not familiar checking the drains should be a regular thing.

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Finished the install of my DesignTek valved exhaust.....and it works 😁

Almost wondrous to be able to change the growliness of an exhaust with a crappy looking remote control.

While I was there I replaced the oil filler tube (which was snapped at the join and had been weeping oil) and fitted a BMC air filter. The weather looks good tomorrow so I’m looking forward to experiencing the exhaust/air inlet plate removal/air filter combination.

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6 hours ago, BBB said:

Finished the install of my DesignTek valved exhaust.....and it works 😁

Almost wondrous to be able to change the growliness of an exhaust with a crappy looking remote control.

While I was there I replaced the oil filler tube (which was snapped at the join and had been weeping oil) and fitted a BMC air filter. The weather looks good tomorrow so I’m looking forward to experiencing the exhaust/air inlet plate removal/air filter combination.

@BBB What did you use for the switched live?

 

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6 hours ago, Gareth_W said:

@BBB What did you use for the switched live?

I routed the solenoid wiring over the gear change cables, under the engine cover and under all the trim on the right hand side of the interior, until I got to the fuse box. I used an ‘add a circuit’ connector and plugged that into an empty fuse slot. The earth went to the bolt that secures the fuse box.

I’m not totally convinced that the slot I used is switched live but the control box is only sat there waiting for a radio signal so I don’t think it pulls huge current. If it becomes a problem then I’ll move the ‘add a circuit’ to the window fuse, which is definitely switched live. I didn’t use that straight away as it’s a 30A circuit and I didn’t want to screw that up.

This link was useful guidance.

https://www.maxspeed-motorsports.com/uploads/2/5/1/0/25107268/987valves.pdf

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New to me 987.2 2.9L manual 6speed Metallic Meteor Grey Black interior 32K miles.

I have fortunately had a few Porsches over the years with a gap when my kids were small.

Sold my 911 997.2 3.8S PDK. Not that I did not like it it was superb but had it 5 years and wanted a change and prices were very strong so took advantage of that.

Never had a mid engine Porsche and I wanted a manual and chose the 2.9L 987 because I wanted to enjoy the revs, gear changes, engine and exhaust sound.

Anyhow I enjoy 'fettling' and a bit on amateur detailing too.

Had the car a few days and time to give it the once over -

 Clay barred it, mild compound to paintwork then machine polished, then 2 part glaze to wings and bonnet. Leather seats cleaned then treated with a nice 'leather smell' product. Vacuumed the leaves out of the vents. Wheels off, wheel arch panels off crud all cleaned out then Dinatrol Metallic used behind panels. Suspension components cleaned (they were not bad really). Everything checked cleaned and treated as necessary, Dinatrol on top mounts. Wheels fully cleaned while off weight adhesive removed, painted couple of parts - Wurth paint and lacquer. Designtek twin carbon X exhaust end pipe fitted (I just don't like square pipes personally). 

Now if it stops peeing it down I would like to go for a drive.

On a note - even though my car is low mileage I noted the following -  if you take your front wheels off check the tops of your suspension struts shock absorbers. Pull the rebound rubber stop down, it may be a bit stuck. These cars like my 911 tend to retain damp between the bump stop and the shock absorber piston at the tops. You can potentially save a lot of money by cleaning and treating that part before they corrode and need replacing. You might as well give your top mounts a spray as well while you are there.

 

Regards to all

Glen

 

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1 hour ago, iborguk said:

Drove it 

51168157604_a26a31a36d_b.jpg

 

Does it always have a spike up through the driver's seat?  Must be uncomfortable and irritating to have to route plan to avoid low bridges.  🤣

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1 minute ago, ½cwt said:

Does it always have a spike up through the driver's seat?  Must be uncomfortable and irritating to have to route plan to avoid low bridges.  🤣

“Breaker breaker 19”

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New pushrods for the roof acquired. I also ordered the push rod ball joint as separate items, but the delivery time is a few weeks and I want mine running asap so I purchased the complete pushrods from my local OPC who had these in stock. I will then have a spare set if my original push rods are straight. I will try the installation today, wish me luck!-)

I will also need to check the roof movement. When I think how the joints broke, the roof was 80-90% down and maybe stuck for a moment before the pop - the total time for the top to go down was a few seconds longer than usual. It's like the roof caught on something, but not sure what to look for.

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1 hour ago, Finbox said:

New pushrods for the roof acquired. I also ordered the push rod ball joint as separate items, but the delivery time is a few weeks and I want mine running asap so I purchased the complete pushrods from my local OPC who had these in stock. I will then have a spare set if my original push rods are straight. I will try the installation today, wish me luck!-)

I will also need to check the roof movement. When I think how the joints broke, the roof was 80-90% down and maybe stuck for a moment before the pop - the total time for the top to go down was a few seconds longer than usual. It's like the roof caught on something, but not sure what to look for.

Have someone operate the switch, whilst you can be outside, and shout stop if anything does not look right, were the rear Bowden cables attached ( the ones you pop off to put the hood in the service position)?

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