Broken Front Spring

[½cwt]

Got the springs off and refitted over the weekend and the car is back together suspension-wise .  I didn't need to split the bottom ball joints it the end as one I'd slackened the inboard bolt ont he coffin arm the strut cleared the wing and I could tilt it out of the wheel arch.  I could only get the drop link out on one side but as it isn't warn I've left it. Where possible I also took the time to run bolts or taps through all the treads in the upright castings to clear out corrosion and other cr*p and used assembly compound to hopefully minimise issues in the future.

Just need the lockdown to ease a bit so I can take it for tracking up.

On 4/12/2020 at 2:12 AM, K.I.T.T. said:

Whilst Sachs is the OEM for the top mounts, haven't found the OEM for the bearings. If required, suggest you get these from OPC.

Had an issue with my previous 986 - like yourself, snapped a spring, and decided to go all in. Two OE springs, Lemforder top mounts and Lemforder bearings - only to find the bearings and top mounts didn't mate with each other! The original mounts were still good at the time, as were the bearings, which were regreased and reused. The Lemforder items were returned for a refund.

I got the top mount from the source you gave @K.I.T.T. and they were definitely needed as one had about half the rubber peeled off the centre bush. I stripped inspected and re-greased the top bearing as as the were fine, they just getting a bit low on grease but far from dry.

[K.I.T.T.]

Glad to hear. Are the Sachs top mounts still OE with the part numbers ground off?

How many miles on your car (well, specifically the bearings) out of curiosity? 

[½cwt]

47 minutes ago, K.I.T.T. said:

Glad to hear. Are the Sachs top mounts still OE with the part numbers ground off?

How many miles on your car (well, specifically the bearings) out of curiosity? 

Yep, exactly as you described.  Ground off before the finishing zinc treatment so clearly done in the same factory processes.  96K miles 20 years on all the parts and both top bearings were originals.  The only changed part appeared to be the left side ARB drop link which both looks fresher, and just tapped out of the upright, so 2 clear indicators...

[½cwt]

Had the excuse to do a few more miles at the weekend.  Front end is much more responsive and feels 'tighter' so I can only imagine that the condition of top mounts beforehand was really quite poor.  I'd recommend that anyone taking part anything that involves removing the strut to change the top mounts if you still have original ones.  The link provided by @K.I.T.T. gets you a pair of OE (but lightened by the removal of the Porsche markings) Sachs ones at £50 - no brainer from my experience.

[Cheddar Bob]

Soon we will all be able to drive as far as we want..... In England

 

Good news with the front end. 

[Theo86]

Hi All,

I have been reading this thread with interest as I have a broken bump stop on the N/S front shock.

The shock mounts are pretty rusty and will replace with the Sachs ones @K.I.T.T. mentions.

I have seen these shocks on 911 Design and wondered if these are a good purchase?

https://www.design911shop.com/Porsche/Boxster-986-987-981/Boxster-986-27L-1999-02/Shock-Absorbers-Front/pt385_390_-cma81-cmo82-ct288/

 

[½cwt]

11 minutes ago, Theo86 said:

Hi All,

I have been reading this thread with interest as I have a broken bump stop on the N/S front shock.

The shock mounts are pretty rusty and will replace with the Sachs ones @K.I.T.T. mentions.

I have seen these shocks on 911 Design and wondered if these are a good purchase?

https://www.design911shop.com/Porsche/Boxster-986-987-981/Boxster-986-27L-1999-02/Shock-Absorbers-Front/pt385_390_-cma81-cmo82-ct288/

 

I went after market for the bump stops from D911 and the bellows that hang from them to cover the piston will be fine unless you can see damage also highly unlikely the top bearing will be a problem (mine were fine at 20 years/95k miles), just strip, clean, re-grease and refit.  Bilstein B4 are the best match shocks to original.  Good luck getting the old ones (and the ARB drop links) out of the upright castings.

To be honest if it is just a perished bump stop or two (£10 or so each) and no other problem I'd leave it until there is something you really need to attend to unless you are also sure the shocks are really tired. You will also find that the springs corrode quite heavily at the point they will be flexing where they meet the bottom platform on the shock strut so would be wise to do these at the same time to avoid taking the strut apart more than once.  Only one of mine was broken but I can see how they would eventually go in the same place.  Could easily become a four figure job if you throw in tuning forks, drop links, ARB bushed (corroded ARB?) and coffin arms along with springs, shock bump stops, top mounts whilst you have it all in pieces.

What every you decide please report on how you get on.

[Theo86]

14 hours ago, ½cwt said:

I went after market for the bump stops from D911 and the bellows that hang from them to cover the piston will be fine unless you can see damage also highly unlikely the top bearing will be a problem (mine were fine at 20 years/95k miles), just strip, clean, re-grease and refit.  Bilstein B4 are the best match shocks to original.  Good luck getting the old ones (and the ARB drop links) out of the upright castings.

To be honest if it is just a perished bump stop or two (£10 or so each) and no other problem I'd leave it until there is something you really need to attend to unless you are also sure the shocks are really tired. You will also find that the springs corrode quite heavily at the point they will be flexing where they meet the bottom platform on the shock strut so would be wise to do these at the same time to avoid taking the strut apart more than once.  Only one of mine was broken but I can see how they would eventually go in the same place.  Could easily become a four figure job if you throw in tuning forks, drop links, ARB bushed (corroded ARB?) and coffin arms along with springs, shock bump stops, top mounts whilst you have it all in pieces.

What every you decide please report on how you get on.

My car has done 55k and it handles really well. I'm hoping to go on a track day in the next couple of months. The front disks need replacing. I noticed the broken bump stop, it's broken in two horizontally.

The front shocks are badly corroded but functioning fine. When the caliper and disk is off I would have access to the shocks. Would you just clean up the shocks and leave the bump stop? I don't mind doing some spanner work but don't fancy this...

[½cwt]

22 minutes ago, Theo86 said:

My car has done 55k and it handles really well. I'm hoping to go on a track day in the next couple of months. The front disks need replacing. I noticed the broken bump stop, it's broken in two horizontally.

The front shocks are badly corroded but functioning fine. When the caliper and disk is off I would have access to the shocks. Would you just clean up the shocks and leave the bump stop? I don't mind doing some spanner work but don't fancy this...

My bump stops were perished and also one was in two pieces.  I only did the work because I had to replace a broken spring, besides how often do you hit the bump stops?  Did turn out that the top mounts probably needed replacing too, so if you are going to track it might be worth doing this in the preparation if you have to take the suspension apart.  Changing dampers, well look up the horror stories of hours of hitting and heating to get them out of the castings.  To do this you need to get the upright off the coffin arm so you can get at it properly, preferably in a well equipped workshop, and doing this will almost certainly damage the rubber on the ball joint so the coffin arm would need replacement too.  My shocks are quite corroded too but a wire brush and black hammerite has at least made them look prettier if not actually extended their life!

As I said above in the thread, if I ever need to do a damper I'll buy a replacement upright from a breaker who has removed the damper from the casting already.  They are really quite cheap to save the aggravation some have had.

Seriously, from what you describe I'd do the discs and call it a day as there are no other known problems.

[bally4563]

4 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

My bump stops were perished and also one was in two pieces.  I only did the work because I had to replace a broken spring, besides how often do you hit the bump stops?  Did turn out that the top mounts probably needed replacing too, so if you are going to track it might be worth doing this in the preparation if you have to take the suspension apart.  Changing dampers, well look up the horror stories of hours of hitting and heating to get them out of the castings.  To do this you need to get the upright off the coffin arm so you can get at it properly, preferably in a well equipped workshop, and doing this will almost certainly damage the rubber on the ball joint so the coffin arm would need replacement too.  My shocks are quite corroded too but a wire brush and black hammerite has at least made them look prettier if not actually extended their life!

As I said above in the thread, if I ever need to do a damper I'll buy a replacement upright from a breaker who has removed the damper from the casting already.  They are really quite cheap to save the aggravation some have had.

Seriously, from what you describe I'd do the discs and call it a day as there are no other known problems.

For the fronts there is no need to remove the bottom wishbone for Spring replacement , just remove brake caliper , slacken off slightly the front eccentric bolt , remove ARB , Mark position of the three strut mounting bolts, and strut will swing out and under the wheel arch.

[½cwt]

1 minute ago, bally4563 said:

For the fronts there is no need to remove the bottom wishbone for Spring replacement , just remove brake caliper , slacken off slightly the front eccentric bolt , remove ARB , Mark position of the three strut mounting bolts, and strut will swing out and under the wheel arch.

That is what I describe above in the thread on how I tackled the job of a spring, bump stop and top mount change.  If you want to change a damper however you'll need to put in a lot of energy into the upright/damper to free the damper and you can't do that on the car.....

[bally4563]

1 minute ago, ½cwt said:

That is what I describe above in the thread on how I tackled the job of a spring, bump stop and top mount change.  If you want to change a damper however you'll need to put in a lot of energy into the upright/damper to free the damper and you can't do that on the car.....

I must off been lucky, probably done 20 or more, and the only time I have to pull the lot is when it's been impossible to get the drop link out, on the more stubborn in situ I've found a copper mallet under the strut has been sufficient to drift it out.

[½cwt]

1 minute ago, bally4563 said:

I must off been lucky, probably done 20 or more, and the only time I have to pull the lot is when it's been impossible to get the drop link out, on the more stubborn in situ I've found a copper mallet under the strut has been sufficient to drift it out.

Perhaps I've been reading the wrong stories or just picked up on a couple of bad experiences....

[Martinlennox]

Hi guys,

The eBay link would suggest that these top mounts aren't compatible with boxster (and996).  

I take it I  should just ignore this, and order them?

 

Martin

 

[½cwt]

26 minutes ago, Martinlennox said:

Hi guys,

The eBay link would suggest that these top mounts aren't compatible with boxster (and996).  

I take it I  should just ignore this, and order them?

 

Martin

 

I've checked my eBay account and these are what I bought, and I can sure you they fit and function correctly.  Page 3 and 4 of their compatibility list show the 996 models and as it is a 996 (superseded by 997) part number on the 986 it is OK.  When I took the old ones off and put them along side, you can clearly see the mark where the Porsche part number is stamped has been ground off but before the final metal treatment so not just a lashed up job.  There's even a bit of discount for buying two now but IIRC they take 4 or 5 days to turn up.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SACHS-Suspension-Struts-Front-802-553-Discount-Car-Parts/192794966601?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[Martinlennox]

nice one, thanks.  Ordered and should hopefully arrive today 👍

[Tricky54]

Hi Guys

I've just discovered a broken front spring on my 986 whilst I was removing my ARB drop links which needed replacing ( absolute ball ache to remove the top pins too). 

Can someone clarify what the options are for the minimal amount of dismantling of the front suspension to enable removal of the spring from the struts please? The ARB drop links are already off. 

I'm already aware that the bump stops are split, which may have led to the spring breaking, so I will be replacing these too and having a look at the top mounts/bearings which you've all been highlighting.

Thanks in advance!

[bally4563]

6 minutes ago, Tricky54 said:

Hi Guys

I've just discovered a broken front spring on my 986 whilst I was removing my ARB drop links which needed replacing ( absolute ball ache to remove the top pins too). 

Can someone clarify what the options are for the minimal amount of dismantling of the front suspension to enable removal of the spring from the struts please? The ARB drop links are already off. 

I'm already aware that the bump stops are split, which may have led to the spring breaking, so I will be replacing these too and having a look at the top mounts/bearings which you've all been highlighting.

Thanks in advance!

As yo have got the drop links out ( biggest job) pull the lot and transfer to a bench, you only need to slacken the front wishbone bolt and unbolt the brake caliper and associated brackets and sensors, I would sooner have the strut on a bench than tilting forward out of the car with spring compressors on, like staring down the end of barrel in my opinion, safety first for an extra 10 mins of work.

[Tricky54]

Hi Bally4563

Thanks for the quick response & I'm inclined to agree with your suggestion. The brake sensor cables are 'clipped' to a bracket on the inside edge of the struts with plastic mouldings on either side of the bracket. They look like they should just slide out of the bracket but they're being reluctant to move far and I don't want to break anything. Is there a special technique for removing them?

[bally4563]

1 hour ago, Tricky54 said:

Hi Bally4563

Thanks for the quick response & I'm inclined to agree with your suggestion. The brake sensor cables are 'clipped' to a bracket on the inside edge of the struts with plastic mouldings on either side of the bracket. They look like they should just slide out of the bracket but they're being reluctant to move far and I don't want to break anything. Is there a special technique for removing them?

Yeh, they will budge with a screwdriver to prise them out

[½cwt]

Getting the top nut lose is the only other challenge, other than tightening it up again and getting to the correct torque.  Whilst you have it apart may be worth fitting new top mounts as you take them out anyway.  I did this as I noted whist updating my progress on this thread. Use this link: SACHS Suspension Struts Front 802 553 - Discount Car Parts | eBay  Unfortunately they have gone up from £25 to £30 each since I bought them.

While you have this apart also strip and re-grease the top bearings.

PM me and I'll send you over the torque settings for all the front suspension if you need it.

[Tricky54]

Hi guys. Many thanks for your replies to my question. I've now got one of my struts on the bench but I had to borrow a mate's impact wrench to remove the strut top nut. I imagine torquing it back up is going to be tricky - have you any tips about that? 

There has been much talk here about replacing the top mount plate. There doesn't seem to be anything to wear out on it so why replace it? Surely we should be more concerned about the bearing condition?

½cwt, can you send me the list of torque settings for all the front suspension that you mentioned please?

[Tricky54]

Hopefully this is my last question on this topic. Does anyone know who the manufacturer was for 2003 Boxster S front springs and whether I can get them from anywhere apart from my OPC?!

[Cocky]

On 4/10/2020 at 11:06 PM, Nobbie said:

Mine were 20 years old and had 150k on them, but really just needed a clean and regrease and they were fine.

Ditto but 99k

[½cwt]

3 hours ago, Tricky54 said:

 

½cwt, can you send me the list of torque settings for all the front suspension that you mentioned please?

Take a minute or two to think through Porsche's terminology but it makes sense in the end.  If it is not legible, PM me with your email and I'll send it to you at full size.

Regarding the top mount, it will be 18 to 25 year old rubber and it certainly improved the feel on mine when I replaced them whilst doing the springs, I found my bump stops were perished to but I think you mentioned that.  I did the top mounts, springs and bump stops about 9 months ago and drove it for the summer including a trip to France (in the 5 o 6 week window when such things were feasible this year.  Oh what happy times!) before the service inspection and MOT in September indicated I needed to do rather more with bottom arms, tuning forks, shocks which I did 5 months ago which is a rather more costly and time consuming job, particularly for a DIYer. Top bearing - just strip clean and re-grease unless you see pitting in the bearing faces, mine was fine.

I picked up a pair of front springs from 9apart which were new original Porsche springs but not much cheaper (still £200) than an OPC; D911 will be more expensive than OPC for these.

Good luck, post any more questions.  I know several of us on here (K.I.T.T. & bally4563 to name a couple of others) have done this or similar work recently, it is 986 cars getting old and/or wearing out unfortunately.