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Rear tuning forks done


Ninesomething

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Guy that took the old ones off told me there was no play in them but on the way home car felt smoother and quieter even though I drove over all the bumps instead of around them. I suppose there's a difference between trying to move a ball joint with your hand and moving it with the weight of a car.

I'll have to have a necessary journey somewhere later just to make sure.

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No play but deteriorated rubber will change the feel. I've just been caught out by not changing rear top mounts because they looked OK (didn't do the rear tuning forks either) when I did my suspension refresh and then had to do 2/3 of the work again to then change the top mounts as the right hand one was still the source of a squeak.  All is now serene.  At least tuning forks don't need you to take quite so much apart as top mounts do.

Enjoy!

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12 hours ago, JonSta said:

Guy that took the old ones off told me there was no play in them but on the way home car felt smoother and quieter even though I drove over all the bumps instead of around them. I suppose there's a difference between trying to move a ball joint with your hand and moving it with the weight of a car.

I'll have to have a necessary journey somewhere later just to make sure.

Trust me you won’t ,even when I have known it to be a control arm, try to generate that knock in situ is nigh on impossible , stripped a joint down a while back and could see that the plastic bush around the ball had worn laterally and not on the diameter, so it’s end to end of the joint, if that makes sense, hence whilst in situ/tension , twisting one way to the other you won’t feel nothing.

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5 hours ago, JonSta said:

That's what I figured. There's a lot of forces going through a car suspension. On the less good front I drove it again and because I can't hear anything from the back I can now hear knocking from the driver's side front. Guess I better order the front ones.....

Check Spyder Performance on eBay.

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3 hours ago, McDonald said:

Spyder performance seem to sell them in sets of four at £500+. If you're doing the rears, you only need 2, surely? 

They sell singly, in pairs and even as sets/kits.  Sets of 4 would be for 996 and 997 as they have a different set up on the back with the same tuning forks all round where as the 986 and 987 have different tuning forks front and rear.  Lots of combinations in their listings.  If they aren't showing what you want contact then, they are quick and helpful in replies in my experience including bundling delivery.

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9 hours ago, ½cwt said:

They sell singly, in pairs and even as sets/kits.  Sets of 4 would be for 996 and 997 as they have a different set up on the back with the same tuning forks all round where as the 986 and 987 have different tuning forks front and rear.  Lots of combinations in their listings.  If they aren't showing what you want contact then, they are quick and helpful in replies in my experience including bundling delivery.

Thanks for explaining that. It seemed odd.

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My new rears arrived from Spyder last week and they look really nicely made. Just need find time to fit them. I found the same as Bally no amount of wiggling generated the knocking noise but off the car I could easily rattle the bushes in the arms.

As soon as I had changed the fronts I could hear a rattle at the rear. 

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2 hours ago, Buzzlt said:

My new rears arrived from Spyder last week and they look really nicely made. Just need find time to fit them. I found the same as Bally no amount of wiggling generated the knocking noise but off the car I could easily rattle the bushes in the arms.

As soon as I had changed the fronts I could hear a rattle at the rear. 

Hi 

have you looked how much play is between the tuning fork opening to the bush on the control arm yet? Would be interested to know

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3 hours ago, Buzzlt said:

My new rears arrived from Spyder last week and they look really nicely made. Just need find time to fit them. I found the same as Bally no amount of wiggling generated the knocking noise but off the car I could easily rattle the bushes in the arms.

As soon as I had changed the fronts I could hear a rattle at the rear. 

I only suspected/sussed after changing most of the parts that the creak/knock at the rear was a coffin arm inboard bolt not fully torqued after tracking but only after I'd  bought new top mounts, so I slogged through redoing a lot of the work to fit these as well, at least I know they are new now.... but the main knocks had gone which I put down to the front TF as well as lo lot of other 'background noise'. It is silent now and much more positive handling..

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I’ve done lots of these now, if you blindfolded me and gave me a brace of old and new, with a screwdriver as a lever through the bush and articulate, I would be hard pressed to pick up a knackered one, however changing them out makes a world of difference!

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