SimonT001 Posted May 8, 2021 Report Share Posted May 8, 2021 Hi All One of my (Litronic) headlamps has a tendancy to go out whilst in use but then comes on again next time they are turned on. Loose connection I assume. Having read up on the procedure for removing the headlamp I inserted the tool and it rotated in 90deg jumps but the headlamp stayed firmly in place. I've since watched videos and see that it is supposed to pop forwards. This seems to be an unsatisfactory situation. Does anyone have any tips please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
map Posted May 8, 2021 Report Share Posted May 8, 2021 @SimonT001 Think you need to rotate it 180 degrees in total - 90o to unlock, another 90o to push out. Then rotate back 90o ready for refitting, then with the lamp in place another 90o back to relock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonT001 Posted May 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2021 Thanks map. Problem turned out to be the tool slipping on the spindle even though it doesn't look worn. Worked with a 5mm socket instead. The poor connection is due to the bracket holding the electrical connector on the back of the headlamp tray having snapped off so that the connecting plug is just floating around freely and is only pushed on to the headlamp but not clamped on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edc Posted May 8, 2021 Report Share Posted May 8, 2021 6 hours ago, SimonT001 said: Thanks map. Problem turned out to be the tool slipping on the spindle even though it doesn't look worn. Worked with a 5mm socket instead. The poor connection is due to the bracket holding the electrical connector on the back of the headlamp tray having snapped off so that the connecting plug is just floating around freely and is only pushed on to the headlamp but not clamped on. Been there done that on my old car. I cut down the tray and depending on how fat your arms are you can push the connector on. The lead is not long enough to connect it with the headlamp completely out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
map Posted May 9, 2021 Report Share Posted May 9, 2021 @SimonT001 make sure both connectors on each headlamp are fully home - there’s one for powering the bulbs and another (loose) that drives the real time alignment. Often people think the Litronics are poor performers but in my experience it’s typically not having the loose connector engaged which means that the real time alignment defaults to its lowest setting which is truly rubbish albeit safer for oncoming vehicles. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonT001 Posted May 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2021 On 5/8/2021 at 10:03 PM, edc said: Been there done that on my old car. I cut down the tray and depending on how fat your arms are you can push the connector on. The lead is not long enough to connect it with the headlamp completely out. Yep, thats the problem ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonT001 Posted May 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2021 On 5/9/2021 at 10:12 AM, map said: @SimonT001 make sure both connectors on each headlamp are fully home - there’s one for powering the bulbs and another (loose) that drives the real time alignment. Often people think the Litronics are poor performers but in my experience it’s typically not having the loose connector engaged which means that the real time alignment defaults to its lowest setting which is truly rubbish albeit safer for oncoming vehicles. Thanks - turns out my level sensor is kaput anyway. Person I bought it off had replaced it with an 03 911 and said the Litronics were much better than the 911's conventional lights. In fact he admitted the Boxster was a nicer drive and possibly quicker too!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
map Posted May 11, 2021 Report Share Posted May 11, 2021 1 minute ago, SimonT001 said: Thanks - turns out my level sensor is kaput anyway You may well already be aware of this but there are two - one each front and rear, passenger sides on UK cars. Unless you've tested it and know it's failed it would be unusual in my experience for the level sensor itself to stop working - more likely that the connecting link between the suspension arm and the sensor has seized and come adrift. Easy enough to spot with the wheels off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edc Posted May 11, 2021 Report Share Posted May 11, 2021 48 minutes ago, SimonT001 said: Yep, thats the problem ... Cut the frame down as much as you can so you can pull the lead forward. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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