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Headlamp removal


SimonT001

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Hi All

One of my (Litronic) headlamps has a tendancy to go out whilst in use but then comes on again next time they are turned on. Loose connection I assume. Having read up on the procedure for removing the headlamp I inserted the tool and it rotated in 90deg jumps but the headlamp stayed firmly in place. I've since watched videos and see that it is supposed to pop forwards. This seems to be an unsatisfactory situation. Does anyone have any tips please?

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Thanks map. Problem turned out to be the tool slipping on the spindle even though it doesn't look worn. Worked with a 5mm socket instead. 

The poor connection is due to the bracket holding the electrical connector on the back of the headlamp tray having snapped off so that the connecting plug is just floating around freely and is only pushed on to the headlamp but not clamped on.

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6 hours ago, SimonT001 said:

Thanks map. Problem turned out to be the tool slipping on the spindle even though it doesn't look worn. Worked with a 5mm socket instead. 

The poor connection is due to the bracket holding the electrical connector on the back of the headlamp tray having snapped off so that the connecting plug is just floating around freely and is only pushed on to the headlamp but not clamped on.

Been there done that on my old car. I cut down the tray and depending on how fat your arms are you can push the connector on. The lead is not long enough to connect it with the headlamp completely out. 

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@SimonT001 make sure both connectors on each headlamp are fully home - there’s one for powering the bulbs and another (loose) that drives the real time alignment. 

Often people think the Litronics are poor performers but in my experience it’s typically not having the loose connector engaged which means that the real time alignment defaults to its lowest setting which is truly rubbish albeit safer for oncoming vehicles. 

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On 5/8/2021 at 10:03 PM, edc said:

Been there done that on my old car. I cut down the tray and depending on how fat your arms are you can push the connector on. The lead is not long enough to connect it with the headlamp completely out. 

Yep, thats the problem ...

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On 5/9/2021 at 10:12 AM, map said:

@SimonT001 make sure both connectors on each headlamp are fully home - there’s one for powering the bulbs and another (loose) that drives the real time alignment. 

Often people think the Litronics are poor performers but in my experience it’s typically not having the loose connector engaged which means that the real time alignment defaults to its lowest setting which is truly rubbish albeit safer for oncoming vehicles. 

Thanks - turns out my level sensor is kaput anyway. Person I bought it off had replaced it with an 03 911 and said the Litronics were much better than the 911's conventional lights. In fact he admitted the Boxster was a nicer drive and possibly quicker too!!

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1 minute ago, SimonT001 said:

Thanks - turns out my level sensor is kaput anyway

You may well already be aware of this but there are two - one each front and rear, passenger sides on UK cars.

Unless you've tested it and know it's failed it would be unusual in my experience for the level sensor itself to stop working - more likely that the connecting link between the suspension arm and the sensor has seized and come adrift.  Easy enough to spot with the wheels off.

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48 minutes ago, SimonT001 said:

Yep, thats the problem ...

Cut the frame down as much as you can so you can pull the lead forward. 

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