987 inner & outer tie rod end change

[Navman123]

So I managed to change both inner and outer tie rod ends this weekend. If you’re interested jack-up front of the car and remove both front wheels.

Spray the inner tie rod end locking nut and outer knuckle joint bolt with plus gas, also lift the small end of the boot where it fits the inner tie rod and sprayed with a little plus gas and leave for a few minutes, whilst this is working its magic.

Clean any debris around rubber boot and check there is no hydraulic leak around the rubber boot, if there is it indicates further problems with rack seals, even bigger job. For good measure, measure the distance to centre point of the knuckle joint from a fixed point on the car body. (see later)

Crack the inner tie rod end nut, holding the inner tie rod with a 13mm spanner, using a 18mm socket loosen off the knuckle joint, with a T30 key and 18mm ring spanner remove the knuckle joint nut. I turned the nut upside down and thread halfway back onto the knuckle joint again, using a drift give the nut it a couple of sharp blows with a lump hammer to free them or use a ball joint splitter.

As you remove the outer rod count the number of turns (24 on mine), remove the outer tie rod. Remove the small outer clamp using a pair of long nosed pliers. Use a long thin screwdriver to loosen/release the clamp on the rubber boot near the steering rack. And as you twist to break the rubber to tie rod and steering rack pull the rubber boot towards you.

I used a tool like this remove the inner tie rod end. 

As Bally4563 mentions, this tool would also work as you have good room.

 

Turn the steering wheel to get better access. Looking at the joint you could remove it with a pair of vice grips or similar. Take care not to get any debris into the track rod itself.

New inner rod assembly is straight forward, use thread lock and screw inner rod to steering rack and tighten using the same tool.

I found fitting the rubber boot back on was the most difficult and frustrating.  I part wrapped a tie wrap before pushing the steering boot, checking it was fully located on (by feel), then, using a long nose pliers pulled the tie wrap as tight as I could and checking again. This was the most difficult due to lack of space and took a 3-4 goes before I managed to get it right, so be prepared. Not sure how others have managed to tackle this part, I even removed the cover underneath but just could not get clear access. I will look into this see if there is an easier method, but I think it will need a long special tool of some sorts.

Once the inner tie rod and boot are assembled fit the outer rod counting the turns when removing to find the same position, check it’s about right position by checking the measurement from the fixed point to the centre of the knuckle joint.

Once both sides were complete, and car back on the road I had full geometry check on a Hunter wheel alignment machine. The tie rods were slightly out not by much but though it probably was due a full alignment check anyway.

Parts were from SyderPerformance £65 and full wheel alignment cost £150.

Hope that helps a few members, also check out a few videos on-line to get an idea.