Timsky Posted January 11, 2022 Report Share Posted January 11, 2022 The front anti-roll bar drop links on my 2001 Boxster S are seized solid. I have tried everything I can think of - any advice on how to remove them would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TROOPER88 Posted January 11, 2022 Report Share Posted January 11, 2022 8 hours ago, Timsky said: The front anti-roll bar drop links on my 2001 Boxster S are seized solid. I have tried everything I can think of - any advice on how to remove them would be greatly appreciated. What. have you tried so far? Unless you have a gun such as the Milwaukee Fuel, it will be extremely tough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bally4563 Posted January 11, 2022 Report Share Posted January 11, 2022 Heat is your friend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RalphyBMW Posted January 11, 2022 Report Share Posted January 11, 2022 Chopped off the ball, stuck a big impact gun on the hex stub? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TROOPER88 Posted January 11, 2022 Report Share Posted January 11, 2022 24 minutes ago, RalphyBMW said: Chopped off the ball, stuck a big impact gun on the hex stub? Very often unfortunately this is not enough. A few I have done recently, I have had to cut into the bolt with a grinder from the back of the strut. Once the bolt has been cut in two, the impact wrench will remove the one end and a nut driven onto the other end will extract it. I read on the other thread running on the same topic that the one chap removed the strut from the car. I would not advise this as it is always easier on the vehicle and never just smash it with a hammer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myfirstboxster Posted January 11, 2022 Report Share Posted January 11, 2022 Whatever method you use , I don't think it's going to be a subtle operation 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted January 11, 2022 Report Share Posted January 11, 2022 57 minutes ago, TROOPER88 said: Very often unfortunately this is not enough. A few I have done recently, I have had to cut into the bolt with a grinder from the back of the strut. Once the bolt has been cut in two, the impact wrench will remove the one end and a nut driven onto the other end will extract it. I read on the other thread running on the same topic that the one chap removed the strut from the car. I would not advise this as it is always easier on the vehicle and never just smash it with a hammer. Paul, We've got a duplicate thread on this subject from the same poster, one with a spelling error in the title. That was my first attempt and used a a cautionary tale about how seized these can be. I now know more hence what else I wrote on that post reposted here: These can be a b*tch. Heat on the bolt and a good impact wrench both help a lot, otherwise lots of slow high force twisting with a breaker bar. Cut the drop link end off the bolt to give good access to the 17mm hex and only use a 6 pint (not 12 point) socket or you risk rounding it off. To give you an idea on the first one I did, with the strut/hub assembly off the car and wedged against a concrete step a 14lb sledge hammer did not move the bolt. Heat and an impact wrench got it out in about 5 minutes. I used a magnetic induction heater to focus the heat in the bolt and avoid heating the hub casting too much. A local indy budgets 30 minutes per bolt once they ahve got it up in the air and the wheel, caliper and disc off. We've got a duplicate thread on this subject from the same poster, one with a spelling error in the title. @Araf can you do anything to tidy up? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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