graham964 Posted January 15, 2022 Report Share Posted January 15, 2022 Hi All I thought its not raining so time to wake the car from its three month sleep. My car is connected to a ctek charger so no problem, or so I thought! Using the fob I got a lethargic pulse from the car but no signs of opening and then I noticed the ctek charger appeared to be off and did not show the usual array of yellow lights. Not a big issue so I pushed the mode button a few times, to set to car with agm, and the lights came on the charge unit, but no sign of charging. The red LED in the car at the cigarette lighter refused to flash and then I noticed all the lights on the ctek charger had gone off. No problem I thought I will unlock the car with the key which I have never done before, however after liberating the key from the fob and lifting the drivers door handle I thought the problem was solved. Alas no, when I turned the key I could hear something going on but the car did not unlock. This problem was starting to get serious. Luckily for me the Ctek lead was connected so I cut off the connector going into the car and then measured the voltage and resistance which somewhat worryingly was 0Volts and 24kohms, the latter gave me some encouragement as at least it wasn't open circuit indicating that I hadn't broken the cable, when I shut the car door a few months ago. I then got another charger which sensed 0V and refused to charge, very fortunately for me I had another very old charger devoid of electronics and connected this and after putting it to high charge rate (bad for batteries I know) it started to charge and after ten minutes I attempted via the fob to open the door and eureka the lock opened and although the window didn't drop I could get in to the car. I then tried the frunk and the actuator could be heard operating but it did not open. I decided that I was lucky to get the door open at this stage and will leave the battery on charge for a few hours to see if I can open the frunk with more power hopefully in the battery. I will update later on this. In the meantime I have a question about what do you do if the battery goes flat on one of these cars and you don't have a charge lead dangling out of the door, as the key I thought should open the door and it didn't on mine, did I just not turn it hard enough? Surely I should be able to get in with the key without battery power or am I missing something? The other issue is, has the battery failed whilst on the ctek or has the ctek failed in some way. The battery seemed fine when I put the car away however I suspect it could be the original making it 9 years old. Hopefully I can get in to the frunk later which can be done via a point on the fuse board I believe and a second battery, and if this fails I believe there is a method involving wheel removal however this could be a tricky option as the locking wheel nut is in the frunk. A tricky start to 2022 Any comments gratefully received. Graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobbie Posted January 15, 2022 Report Share Posted January 15, 2022 Unlucky, but as you’re into the car you should be fine hooking up via the fuse box in the unlikely event a few hours on the charger doesn’t work. I have a feeling that the key operates a microswitch in the lock which then opens the door, so power is needed to unlock. good luck👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ringmaster999 Posted January 15, 2022 Report Share Posted January 15, 2022 Funnily enough I was in my garage earlier this week and the Ctek lights on the charger connected to my Boxster caught my eye as it was showing red. So pressed the mode button and left it but some hours later when checked it was on the red error light again. Anyway checked the plug and it had dislodged slightly from the socket. After this was corrected all was fine. So in my case it was a simple plug not in the socket correctly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graham964 Posted January 15, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2022 Thanks Nobbie for your feedback. I got into the frunk after an hour on the charger. Based on what you say regarding the microswitch and a need for power you really could have a big problem which may only be addressed by the wheel removal method which could be very tricky to deal with if the locking wheel nut is locked in the car. This is the first time this has happened to me in 15 years of of Porsche ownership so hopefully it won't happen again any time soon, although in my 996 I redirected the hidden cable for easier access to the frunk and maybe I will consider doing the same thing again assuming I can find it. Graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graham964 Posted January 15, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2022 Hi Ringmaster I will be checking the functionality of my Ctek as this was my security against the sort of issue I have just had. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobbie Posted January 15, 2022 Report Share Posted January 15, 2022 5 minutes ago, graham964 said: Thanks Nobbie for your feedback. I got into the frunk after an hour on the charger. Based on what you say regarding the microswitch and a need for power you really could have a big problem which may only be addressed by the wheel removal method which could be very tricky to deal with if the locking wheel nut is locked in the car. This is the first time this has happened to me in 15 years of of Porsche ownership so hopefully it won't happen again any time soon, although in my 996 I redirected the hidden cable for easier access to the frunk and maybe I will consider doing the same thing again assuming I can find it. Graham Yes, I had to remove my front wheel, but luckily I was at home and had the locking key in the house at the time. After this happened I removed the locking wheel nuts as theft of alloy wheels doesn’t seem to be a thing any more and mine are nothing special. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmine Posted January 15, 2022 Report Share Posted January 15, 2022 You chaps need to RTFM a bit more… - If the battery is flat lift and hold the driver’s door handle - use the key and turn the lock 90 degrees anti-clockwise and remove the key - release the door handle and lift it again to open the door 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMA Posted January 15, 2022 Report Share Posted January 15, 2022 3 minutes ago, Carmine said: You chaps need to RTFM a bit more… - If the battery is flat lift and hold the driver’s door handle - use the key and turn the lock 90 degrees anti-clockwise and remove the key - release the door handle and lift it again to open the door ^ This. Worked fine when I had a dead battery. Connected up another to the fuse board to open the frunk. Simples Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graham964 Posted January 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2022 Carmine I stated the following which makes me question your RTFM statement. however after liberating the key from the fob and lifting the drivers door handle I thought the problem was solved. Alas no, when I turned the key I could hear something going on but the car did not unlock. Essentially it would seem if the battery is completely discharged ie the car is left for a very long period of time and the alarm system drains it right down to near nothing then it would seem the key will not open the car which is going to be quite problematic for most people no matter how much you read the manual! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmine Posted January 16, 2022 Report Share Posted January 16, 2022 I'm going to do a Boris and hold off with an apology until the inquiry completes... 😀 The owner's manual seems to state that you need to remove the key having left the cylinder turned 90 degrees anti-clockwise; any recollection if you did that or moved the key back to vertical? And then a handle release and re-lift is required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graham964 Posted January 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2022 Hi Carmine I will submit a full report to Sue Gray but by way of summary I inserted the key Rotated anti clockwise 90 deg (sound of actuators trying to do something) I then had to remove the key to enable me to try and open the door which I did by rotating the key back through 90deg clockwise (it didn't seem to be possible to pull the key out otherwise). I will have a second go to see if I should have pulled harder on the key to remove it rather than rotating back. To be honest I think it makes no sense to have a mechanical operation via the key that still relies on having power, so I will sum up by saying I hope you are right and request you hold off on the apology until I have had another go! Cheers Graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmine Posted January 16, 2022 Report Share Posted January 16, 2022 (edited) 😁 I fully agree that there must be a way of getting to the battery in the frunk when the battery is flat. In the manual there’s no mention of a release cable as there has been for previous generations. Thus it seems some method using the key in the door must work. Edited January 16, 2022 by Carmine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davey P Posted January 16, 2022 Report Share Posted January 16, 2022 22 hours ago, graham964 said: The battery seemed fine when I put the car away however I suspect it could be the original making it 9 years old. I'm not an expert (understatement of the year), but I'd say you need a new battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iborguk Posted January 16, 2022 Report Share Posted January 16, 2022 22 hours ago, graham964 said: The battery seemed fine when I put the car away however I suspect it could be the original making it 9 years old. If you look at the negative terminal it should have a two digit week and two digit year of manufacture stamped on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graham964 Posted January 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2022 OK Another thrilling part to this tale. I think Carmine can hold off on an apology and the manual writer for Porsche be subject to some form of ritual humiliation and maybe myself for not trying the bleeding obvious! I have just repeated yesterdays efforts of inserting the key and turning it anti clockwise and can confirm that you get some whirring noises as observed before and after removal of the key and trying to open, the car is still locked. This process is confirmed in the manual. However somewhat counter intuitively for opening a car lock or any lock come to that with a key, if you turn it clockwise the recognisable sound of the door locks opening was heard which after removing the key was proven to be the case. The only unknown now is would this have worked with a completely flat battery? This I can't say as my battery is now charged up and I am a little reluctant to disconnect it and experiment further. There was definitely some motor noise inferring power been used when I unlocked the car but this could have been the passenger door unlocking. So to conclude Try the bleeding obvious first, don't believe everything you read and buy a new battery (thanks iborg/Davey mine was week 45 year 12 so as I suspected 9 years old!). Graham PS I suppose I will have to buy a new battery from Porsche at some mad price as my car is under warranty. If I buy it from them will it need coding as well? (I guess this is in the forum already but if anybody knows the answer ......) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmand Posted January 16, 2022 Report Share Posted January 16, 2022 (edited) Coding is likely to optimise charging and life of the battery but is not essential - plenty have changed without or by substituting any number. You may also need to reset a few things - I seem to remember windows and steering angle? Someone who’s done it will be along shortly. Edited January 16, 2022 by Carmand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iborguk Posted January 16, 2022 Report Share Posted January 16, 2022 (edited) 3 hours ago, graham964 said: PS I suppose I will have to buy a new battery from Porsche at some mad price as my car is under warranty. If I buy it from them will it need coding as well? (I guess this is in the forum already but if anybody knows the answer ......) An original Battery will be £265 to £290 from an OPC before discount (part only), dependent on rating. Officially needs PIWIS coding , as others have said this will be for charging optimisation. "After replacing the battery, the serial number and part number as well as the battery size and manufacturer must be entered using the PIWIS Tester under: Gateway/Maintenance/repairs/Change battery ." Edited January 16, 2022 by iborguk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmine Posted January 16, 2022 Report Share Posted January 16, 2022 4 hours ago, graham964 said: I have just repeated yesterdays efforts of inserting the key and turning it anti clockwise and can confirm that you get some whirring noises as observed before and after removal of the key and trying to open, the car is still locked. This process is confirmed in the manual. However somewhat counter intuitively for opening a car lock or any lock come to that with a key, if you turn it clockwise the recognisable sound of the door locks opening was heard which after removing the key was proven to be the case. I wonder if this is a subtle LHD/RHD difference that the tech authors overlooked? Glad you go it to work in the end! 👍👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianJ Posted January 17, 2022 Report Share Posted January 17, 2022 (edited) An OPC recently quoted me £90 to code a battery that I had replaced myself, albeit with a Bosch. I declined. Edited January 17, 2022 by BrianJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T24RES Posted January 30, 2022 Report Share Posted January 30, 2022 Check the 'forum map' for PIWIS owners, buy the battery from OPC and exchange beer token for coding. Although not strictly essential to operate. If you've spent circa 290, a little PIWIS love is probably in order to ease the Porsche paranoia 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATM Posted January 30, 2022 Report Share Posted January 30, 2022 On 1/16/2022 at 7:06 PM, Carmand said: You may also need to reset a few things - I seem to remember windows and steering angle? Wait Can you adjust the steering wheel angle without fiddling with nuts and bolts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul P Posted January 30, 2022 Report Share Posted January 30, 2022 i think that is referring to the PSM “error” you get after battery disconnect that goes after a drive around the block has a “proper reset sequence/dance” something like centre, left 20 deg, centre, right 20, centre drive forward 10 metres at walking speed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graham964 Posted January 30, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2022 Thanks for the tip T24Res. Is there anybody nearish to Somerset with a PIWIS I can tempt with a beer (or cider from around here😊) To respond to your comment ATM I think Paul P is correct. On a different subject I am enjoying your rebuild post very much and hope your PDK is finally cured. Have a good week everyone Graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATM Posted January 31, 2022 Report Share Posted January 31, 2022 16 hours ago, Paul P said: i think that is referring to the PSM “error” you get after battery disconnect that goes after a drive around the block has a “proper reset sequence/dance” something like centre, left 20 deg, centre, right 20, centre drive forward 10 metres at walking speed. I've had the battery on and off my 981 many times and used 3 or 4 different batteries on the car as well. Some were lead acid and some were AGM. I've even had to gain entry when the car was locked using the metal blade and then attaching wires to the fuse box to get the bonnet open. Cant remember what is on the car now but it I think it is probably a Lead Acid from my 986. I've never done any coding for any of these batteries. I have never seen a PSM error after disconnecting the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul P Posted January 31, 2022 Report Share Posted January 31, 2022 5 minutes ago, ATM said: I've had the battery on and off my 981 many times and used 3 or 4 different batteries on the car as well. Some were lead acid and some were AGM. I've even had to gain entry when the car was locked using the metal blade and then attaching wires to the fuse box to get the bonnet open. Cant remember what is on the car now but it I think it is probably a Lead Acid from my 986. I've never done any coding for any of these batteries. I have never seen a PSM error after disconnecting the battery. I have taken the battery off 3 987s and a 997 and seen it every time. Maybe the 981 doesn’t do it ( possibly related to the different power steering). Either way. If it does come up it’s easy to clear just can be a surprise if it does it and you weren’t expecting it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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