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My new 986, initial look over, just some niggles


DefJenJag

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Afternoon all..

 

Being unable to stop buying cars and having a neighbour that was just about to cash in a low miles single owner 986 to webuyanycar for silly money.

inevitably it has joined an array of other 'projects' 🤔 But I've finally ticked the Porsche box 😄 and so far very, very impressed with it..

 

Initial findings...

 

Scantool came back with various historical alarm / central locking related codes

33 Passenger Compartment Monitoring Sensor

46 Control Locking Synchronisation

54 Radio Receiver Faulty

59 Central Locking Limit Position Secure Not Reached

60 Central Locking Limit Position Lock Not Reached

cleared them and they have not reoccured but I have got some concerns. Box under the passenger seat is nice and dry.

 

Fairly significant power drain on the battery I need to look into when I get a moment, fully charged it yesterday, went for a drive. This morning was slow to turnover where the battery had depleted quite a bit. The battery is only 2 years old but has some corrosion on the terminals which may point to alternator regulator issue? Previous owner had it on a battery tender in the garage as only used the car occasionally. Maybe there's been a parasitic drain for a while but he's been managing it.

Also have both keys, both work fine in the ignition or door but they're not talking to the car. I reworked one of the keys with some new switches, both keys LED's flash when buttons are pressed and they have new batteries. Tried to reset with the upside down battery trick and re-sync in the door but not sure if it is the keys or the car not listening, maybe doing it wrong? Neighbour said they stopped working a couple of years ago, one started working again for a while then stopped, and he's just been living without the remote locking ever since. 

Also the ignition key feels stiff to me, it is clunking when I remove the key so that's not the cause of the drain but not sure if there could be some link to the car not listening for the keys. But then again no errors when I query the alarm module on the scantool.... can't believe both fobs have run out of rolling codes 🤔

All a bit of a learning curve but hopefully will have some time this weekend to have a tinker 🛠️ 

 

Cheers, Jim

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Yes we do like a picture. Old tracking devices can sometime be a power drain. Ignition barrel becoming faulty is also quite a common issue now for 986. All in all sounds minor and I'm sure you'll have it all tickity boo in a jiffy 👍

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1 hour ago, DefJenJag said:

And the other job I forgot to mention is replacing the dodgy Frunk struts after the re-enactment of the film 'Christine' 

I did mine recently. got a set of ebay for about £16, so not too expensive

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Re the keys.  
 

9x6 have a finite number of codes/key presses in them when the my reach the limit the stop working.  A forum members @Indi9xx day job website has details.

https://www.jmgporsche.co.uk/item/234-996-986-alarm-primer

re battery drain.  Could of course be anything but a common one is the backup siren.  It sits next to the battery and has its own backup battery.  Which dies over time.  And keeps trying to charge itself from the main battery.  Eventually it drains the main matters enough to think it’s been disconnected and the siren goes off.  You can disconnect it.  Car will chirp when the alarm is armed to say something wrong - that can be coded out , but short term you could see if it makes a difference to the drain.  
 

there is a good document on what the expected drain should be after certain periods (10 mins, 24 hours etc).  Our resident man who knows @Richard Hamiltonmay be able to point you to it. 
 

good luck with the niggles. 

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12 hours ago, Paul P said:

Re the keys.  
 

9x6 have a finite number of codes/key presses in them when the my reach the limit the stop working.  A forum members @Indi9xx day job website has details.

https://www.jmgporsche.co.uk/item/234-996-986-alarm-primer

re battery drain.  Could of course be anything but a common one is the backup siren.  It sits next to the battery and has its own backup battery.  Which dies over time.  And keeps trying to charge itself from the main battery.  Eventually it drains the main matters enough to think it’s been disconnected and the siren goes off.  You can disconnect it.  Car will chirp when the alarm is armed to say something wrong - that can be coded out , but short term you could see if it makes a difference to the drain.  
 

there is a good document on what the expected drain should be after certain periods (10 mins, 24 hours etc).  Our resident man who knows @Richard Hamiltonmay be able to point you to it. 
 

good luck with the niggles. 

Thanks that gives me a few pointers, I did wonder about the alarm sounder battery, I've had cars before that hit 15-20 years old where the batteries have worn out

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22 hours ago, Paul P said:

there is a good document on what the expected drain should be after certain periods (10 mins, 24 hours etc).  Our resident man who knows @Richard Hamiltonmay be able to point you to it. 

If you let me have the model and year, I'll post the drain table.

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5 hours ago, Boxstclever said:

Don't discount the ignition switch without checking it.  Mine would clunk, radio would go off etc. But when looking for the drain on my battery, it was the switch.  Replaced with a new one and hasn't drained down since.

I'll probably order up a switch anyway as it just doesn't feel quite right, I'm wondering if the drain and the remote key issues could be in some way linked to it, I've noticed the fuel door actuator is dead too and has just had the clip removed so it can be opened manually, I guess they got tired of fishing around the door jamb for the pull cord

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If the ignition switch is stiff - then it’s likely leaving the aux circuit activated when you remove the key.

…so the car thinks there still a key in the lock, and the remote locking won’t work. It also leave those circuits live which will flatten the battery in 24-48 hours. Usually leading to the alarm going off.

It will still let you lock via the door lock and key.

Check if the ignition lock clicks out (the usual detent spring ‘click’) when you remove the key…

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On 1/22/2022 at 8:19 AM, archemist said:

If the ignition switch is stiff - then it’s likely leaving the aux circuit activated when you remove the key.

…so the car thinks there still a key in the lock, and the remote locking won’t work. It also leave those circuits live which will flatten the battery in 24-48 hours. Usually leading to the alarm going off.

It will still let you lock via the door lock and key.

Check if the ignition lock clicks out (the usual detent spring ‘click’) when you remove the key…

Just to jump in here - mine has this problem quite often . 
Does the switch cause this or the complete locking mechanism need to be replaced? 

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Didn't get too much time in the garage last weekend but swapped out the front trunk struts with aftermarket. It's gone from one extreme to the other now. I don't suppose the correct OEM struts had some spring damping at the end of travel in them did they? 🤔 It's kind of a frunk / clay pigeon trap now.. 😄

Ran some current drain tests and it looks like any problem I have is potentially an intermittent one, perhaps a sticky contact in that ignition switch? (new one on my desk waiting). When I get some time I'll test over a longer period.

MOT tomorrow...... 

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Just doing some more investigation of the current drain. Bonnet up, no key in ignition, unlocked, everything off, a massive 4A

image.png.1c6fbfac7744c09df5ba3b218a957250.png

 

Tripping the bonnet latch to simulate closed, drops to just over 1A

image.png.7671d33176d91ba0bf0e0b30475b1eeb.png

 

And after 10 minutes or so stabilises at around 800mA

image.png.a030d6394ccc22eda27193394384917e.png

 

A very faint electrical buzzing can be heard near the battery, I suspected the alarm sounder but it appears to be loudest on the other side of the battery

Plot thickens 🤔

 

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