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DRH986

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Posts posted by DRH986

  1. Regarding Richard’s point about the many different stalk options, I had CC retrofitted by my OPC on my 981 a few years ago.  Afterwards, the first time I drove the car at night, I realised the headlight high beam wasn't latching on when I pressed the stalk.  The OPC hadn't coded it correctly so had to re-do it.

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  2. PSECirclip2.thumb.jpg.cef00ff5f80d93134dfc8a689767379c.jpg

    On 6/13/2023 at 11:57 AM, Patt said:

    How the hell did you unclip the actuator rod?

    There is a tiny hole with an internal circlip holding the thing on.  Would love to know this as I have a spare actuator and now both are seized.

     

    Pull the open end of the retaining clip away from the ball joint with a screwdriver or fingernail.   Then just pull the clip up in the direction of the actuator to remove the straight part of the clip from the tiny hole through the ball joint. 

    The female part of the ball joint on the end of the actuator rod can then be separated from the male part on the valve crank arm by levering the two apart with a screwdriver.  

     

     

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  3. 1 hour ago, cozzykim said:

    Mine is still working fine, are there any good tips on how to keep it this way?

    Presumably any lubrication doesn't stay there for long.

    I posted this recently on the PCGB forum. 

    The nearside valve was seized on my 981S when I bought it 5 years ago.  I managed to free it off and manually check it regularly and it's been fine until late last year when it started sticking again (about 15K miles into my ownership). 
     
    Since then a couple of times I've un-clipped the actuator rod from the ball joint on the spindle crank arm, placed an 8mm ring spanner over the ball joint and used the spanner in a push/pull fashion to rapidly cycle the valve through its full range of motion many times over a couple of minutes whilst repeatedly spraying the shaft with WD40.  The spanner makes it much easier to rapidly cycle the valve and I'm hoping this regular multiple cycling and lubrication will keep the valve/spindle operating smoothly.  So far so good.

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  4. I've replaced the condensers in four of our Boxsters and Caymans but never been able to confirm the leak point with my UV torch.  I used Behr branded items in our two 987s which I believe were Porsche OEM fit in that model but condensers are about as basic as it gets in terms of technology so I don't think there's much difference between aftermarket brands.

    If you can remove the bumper for cleaning (highly recommended as it's the only way to deal with the muck that builds up between condensers and coolant rads and this is not part of a normal OPC service) then changing the condensers is a doddle.  

  5. This is a very straightforward DIY job.  I replaced my 981 Cayman condensers and receiver/drier last year for about £160 in parts using Nissens condensers and OEM quality drier from Carparts4less and "O"rings from my OPC.  My local Kwik Fit evacuated the remaining refrigerant before I started and refilled it afterwards, all for free (!) but that would normally cost about £70 I think. 

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