box100

My car got reversed into, it put some deep scratches in the door and very very slightly dented it. I tried some compound on a drill but they were too deep and I’m through to the primer.

Any thoughts on how best to solve? Is attempting a spray can a waste of time or has anyone tried a mobile smart repair?

Photo attached 

I stopped using my car last month and have just found a lot of grey insulation in the footwells and a nest from paper in the boot.

It was parked in the garage , I’ve just taken the nest out, parked it outside with the doors open and hoping the wind will encourage them to exit.

Any advice appreciated.

I have a ctek with recon mode (perhaps they all have it now), used forced regen on another car with a poor battery and it gave it a new lease of life - I had thought it was a gimmick but would recommend it.

Mine did it, replaced the coil packs and perfect ever since.

‘ …as manufacturers design for least optimal conditions of their target markets. So if living in area with higher octane fuels (like in UK), this can be tuned in.’

This is a myth put about by those offering a remap, the ECU automatically factors in what octane is in use.

Don’t do it, Porsche know what they are doing a hell of a lot better than someone with a laptop in the back of a garage, also what if something went wrong with the download etc. 

This happened on mine (2005 987), for no apparent reason. I took it to a Porsche specialist, they looked for a cause but couldn’t find anything but the fault cleared. That was 13 years ago and it hasn’t come back.

Thanks for the replies, it did seem unlikely.

I’ve ordered some Armol All wipes and sealant. I read a review that they are a good alternative to sanding and saw a video using them that looked good.

My driver’s side one stopped working and I tried wd40 (without removing anything), that was probably nearly a year ago and it’s been fine since.

I’ve tried Michelin, Pirelli and the Goodyear F1 (albeit 235 50 on 17’’) I’ve settled on the Goodyear, to me, they feel they have the most grip. Mine last about 10k.

I saw that too (although ‘tarnished’ didn’t jump out as referring to plastic - but it is confusing!) on the same FAQ list it also shows this:

3/ POLYTROL can be used to restore a multitude of surfaces  - car trim, paintwork, Yellowed plastic headlamps. 

I’ve used polytrol on plastic near the windscreen with amazing results and I see it lists headlights as another possible use.

I wondered if anyone had tried this and if so if they could share their experience?

On my 2005 987 both front wheel arches have a small patch where the paint has come off and there is a small amount of rust visible (photos attached).

Any advice on the best way to repair / prevent getting worse would be appreciated.

9 hours ago, earley231186 said:

The issue you have is the cats are built into the manifolds. 

 

So how would you attached the eBay ones? 

 

The original cats are all but extinct, I spent months looking for second hand ones. There was non anywhere. 

 

Best option is the Topgear sports cats. But beware of rusted manifold studs. 

Thank you, I doubted they were viable, the Topgear ones look very good, did you or do you know of anyone who fitted them? I have read the CEL on the early 987.1 had a very close tolerance for cats and I wouldn’t be that surprised if I fitted them and still got the alarm.

I have a CEL with PO421 and PO431 fault codes. I’ve tried new lamba sensors and also extenders with no success so it looks like I need new cats. They could be very expensive but saw these universal ones 2''Inch Universal Sports Catalytic Converter High Flow 200 Cells Stainless Steel

on eBay for under £100 each. Does anyone know if these are any good and if / how easy they will be to fit?

51 minutes ago, Topbox said:

I wonder if now applying a product that has a UV blocking ability might reduce the fading. Does Fabsil have UV  resistant properties??? Maybe Renovo does and they are not very good. The roof on my previous 986 was quite tidy and I applied the Autoglym proofer which made the black roof less gray and it stayed looking tidy. I think that may have a UV blocker but you perhaps need to check as I can't be sure. Mine was also a garaged car. Well used but not a daily.

I’ve used Fabsil Gold and was just about to do now but reading your post made me think as I hadn’t considered UV. I just found this on PH:  

Went to buy some more Fabsil to proof the roof on my 450 and noticed that there is now "Fabsil Gold" that has 5 times the level of silicone in it. However, if you look at the technical sheets, you notice that the Gold doesn't have the UV protection that the Fabsil Standard has.

I enquired with the Manufacturer and their technical guy responded that they had to remove the UV protection element from Fabsil Gold in order to get the extra silicone in. They recommended Fabsil Standard as being better suited to car roofs as the UV protection will prolong the life of the material. They recommended just putting a second coat of Standard on if needed.

Thanks for the comments, all helpful, I decided to use it. So far very pleased, virtually looks like new. I note sometimes it is temporary but wonder if the frame tends to show through - which in my case is less of an issue.

I had some mold on my roof, I tried Wet & Forget and and it got rid of the mold but left it marked. I’m wondering about using Renovo but have read some horror stories. Has anyone any experience of using? 

Photo attached. 

In 2008 at 20k miles the engine on my Boxster was replaced by Porsche under warranty (I was told it ‘dropped a valve’ ). bought it 1k later.

I’ve read there were some improvements made by 2008 and wondered if they would have been on the replacement engine? Does anyone know?

Either way I’ve decided to keep it long term, it’s now at 136k and engine seems perfect but it does occur an engine failure would be so expensive to sort it may be the end of the car.

On 8/2/2021 at 12:58 PM, JonSta said:

Did mine last year still looks good. Just make sure to buff it off before it goes sticky.

Thank you Jon, Is it necessary to buff it off or can it just be applied and left to dry? I watched a video where that is what they did - albeit that was on a less shiny plastic.

The plastic between the bonnet and windscreen is quite dull on my 987 and I saw something about WD40 restoring it. 
I did see a video showing it bursts balloons so assume it dissolves a small amount which suggests it might actually work. 
I wondered if anyone had any experience of using it for this?

4 hours ago, Daveb975 said:

Thanks.

The things that I don't understand about the brakes is the true difference between genuine Porsche and OEQ/OEM parts. I've heard reports that they are the same without the branding and others that they are vastly inferior.

Design 911 just do OEQ ones, which is fine, but how do I tell if these are good or bad OEQ parts?

I’ve bought two package sets stating OEQ from them and both fine as far I can tell. There is as much stopping power as I can use, dead smooth and the fronts lasted around 40k each time.

I tend not to do much work on cars myself but found the saving on the brakes was worth it - buying direct from Design 911. I did need an impact wrench to take the front calipers off though. If you don’t fancy fitting yourself perhaps you could find an independent garage who would fit the parts you provided.

Something I’ve started wondering about lately is what a MGTF 160 would be like. I know a smaller car does feel faster and is more fun to drive. I note they only weight about a tonne. I believe they can be modded to 180hp quite easily as well. 

Im also aware compared to the 987 there would be a lot of downsides but wondered if anyone has any experience of both?

After 12 years of ownership of my 987 I’m pretty used to it - but still look forward to driving it. But recently we got my wife’s MG Midget back on the road (after being parked for over 20 years). It is so much fun and 60 feels a LOT faster. 
However, getting back in the Boxster literally feels like it is a rocket and I couldn’t possibly think of wanting anything faster.

I’d recommend this to anyone thinking of upgrading if you’d like to save the money 😅.

Update on this- it wasn’t the wheel bearing- it is something to do with the handbrake drum internals falling to bits. I booked it in to Kwik fit in the end ( they could receive it straight away). It is with them at present as they are struggling to get the parts - apparently they have to get from Porsche.