Does anybody have an exhaust bolt repair kit that they've bought, used, and shelved? Either the Stomski (USA-made, blue) or Verboten (UK made, silver) one would do!

I'm looking for the 6-bolt hole jig - to suit 986, 996, 987.1 and 997.1.

If you get it for 7k it sounds like a good deal overall, given the minor nature of the issues you have identified this far.

How many miles?

Where did you get this key made? At the OPC this is a 500 pound operation.

The easiest way to add front negative camber is to use offset coffin arm bushes.

Powerflex Front Track Control Arm Inner Bushes, Camber Adjustable - Boxster 987 (2005-2012) - PFF57-801

These might give you an extra degree negative or so, but it won't be huge.

Afterwards you'll need to adjust the tracking.

This will help you get home after a track day without burning out the outside corners of standard road tyres.

As has been stated above, semi-slick track oriented tyres with a strong sidewall are a better long term option if you can do this.

Some brands of oil filter throw a crush washer in, but sometimes you're unlucky and there isn't a crush washer included.

You always seem to get the big rubber o-ring that seals the oil filter housing to the engine underside though.

Where's the best place to get the little stalk and cable these days?

On 7/9/2023 at 11:08 PM, ½cwt said:

It is a pretty short pipe and needs a couple of angles in it.  I contemplated it when doing all the lines on my 986 earlier this year, but got these 4 short hardlines from Porsche in the end.  About £20 each IIRC and they also come with a new locating spring that keeps the hard line in the correct location where it meets the flexi hose on the bracket on the hub.

At that price there is little point making them up unless you already have the tools, some pipe, and unions in stock.

It might not be your preference, but if you have access to a flaring tool it's very straightforward to make one up out of copper pipe and a couple of unions.

You can probably improvise the alignment tool with a rod and sockets, or even eyeball it if you're brave.

If the gearbox slips back on you're golden!

If not then I'll deny any responsibility for crazy advice!!!

+1 on using the autodoc mobile app.

Place the clutch and flywheel in your basket there and leave notifications enabled for the app.

After a few days you may get as much as 43 percent offered on your basket items. The sales change daily.

As has been said above, look for LUK flywheel and Sachs clutch as known good brands for this job.

I managed to get a new flywheel for 350 from autodoc.

Definitely worth changing whilst you're in there.

I didn't know this!

I always thought it was a bit silly having to mash the button for ages when driving along.

Especially in a manual!

I had one pack up years ago on a 986s.

It didn't make any noise but it let out water on the way home from London City airport. I had to stop and top it up.

When i took the pump off to replace it the bearing was really floppy. When they go, they go!

BMW used to have a little star on their OEM rated tyres.

Does this mean that they are tested in outer space?

Boxster now identifies as a Cayman.

My last few batteries have been Varta from Tayna, for many different German cars.

Depending on the vehicle, these were either AGM or basic lead acid.

I got the basic Varta listed for this 987 2.7 back in Feb. I could tell it was a big improvement from the more aggressive solenoid noise when locking and unlocking the car, together with much healthier cranking.

Tayna did the Varta 096 for a little under 100 landed. I'm quite happy with this battery on the 987.

http://photos.app.goo.gl/Fr4KomvP7TMgSXK97

Here's a picture of mine. Somebody else did this and it looks like a long while ago.

I like it, and am leaving it alone.

I've had several cars chipped over many years, often with incredible results.

Basically, there are two ways you can make big gains:

1. If you have a turbocharged engine 

2. If you have a factory detuned engine (such as the BMW E92 325i which was a software detuned 330i engine)

Outside of that, gains are very small and almost always cost-ineffective.

The above two points don't apply to any 987 sadly, so best spend the money elsewhere.

If you have a recent turbo Boxster then you could be in serious business with a good software remap.

What about a set of four Cayman R struts and springs?

I don't know how to source these cheaply though. Bilstein could be better overall since you can shop around.

That said, the base suspension is comfy and perfect for the road.

I had the -20 sports factory suspension on another Porsche and it was very rough on the road. Not it's forte, built for the track really - where it excells.

Normally I would jump at these -10 to -15 springs but given the state of the UK roads currently I might have to consider +30s!

There is still some tarmac between the potholes locally, but I'll stick with standard for now at least.

Happy days. These engines can be very reliable apart from when they aren't.

Funnily enough, the coolant temperature sensor on my 987.1 2.7 had a funny five minutes the other week.

I was driving around in the rain, and the engine was almost warmed-up. I made a three-point turn and during the reversing stage the under dash pinger alarm went off.

A warning 'failure indicator' and an icon depicting water temp. appeared. The temp gauge shot to zero and the red light at the right-hand side of the gauge came on.

I drove home gently and switched off. Even after checking the coolant (full) and restarting the fault was still there with the gauge always reading zero.

I connected my icarsoft POR2 and the engine ECU has the fault 'coolant temperature sensor implausible signal'

I cleared the code and everything went back to normal!

The car has been fine ever since with the temp gauge doing its usual pattern of gently rising to 82 degrees and staying there.

The interesting thing to note is that the dash gauge isn't directly reading the temp. sensor as it would have done in a 70s car. Instead the ECU reads the sensor and then displays a dash value according to an ECU map.

This map keeps the gauge dead on 82 degrees despite fluctuations in the engine coolant.

It's believed that this is to inspire driver confidence. One could argue that it kinda does the opposite.

Not wishing to alarm you but it sounds a bit like a head gasket issue.

Hopefully it's not though, so let's see what happens after the coolant is topped-up fully and you've driven it again.

A leaky head gasket can allow coolant to enter the cylinder/s after being parked, which leads to rough running on restart.

Luckily this is not a common issue, and we must hope that the coolant escaped another way (often the metal pipes underneath).

What is the part number for these 10mm drop H&R springs?