Ken986

Great work Steve , I see you’ve mastered the photos on this site - something I gave up on a long time ago. 

2 hours ago, map said:

Am interested to see how you get on with this. Photos and the like of installs and upgrades always welcome on this forum. 

To be honest I would love to include photos but I’ve given up trying to add them . I use an iPhone and even though I’ve followed the instructions I still fail to proceed 🙁. 
Once  I’ve completed it I will do a follow up as I have found a couple of things that need to be addressed.

I’m currently in the middle of fitting PCCM Plus to mine .

Fortunately I have access to the workshop info but it’s a bit of a challenge .

To be honest I would be going to the dealer nearest to you rather than putting a set of used mats in the car.

Just my opinion though 

My unit stopped working approximately 2 years ago and I haven’t replaced it. 

I enjoy listening to the engine when the hood is up (rarely is though ) and the radio is useless when the hood is down .

I have a feeling that Porsche do not sell the ignition switch separately, it comes as part of the complete assembly through them.

My local centre has always been very helpful tbh .

Personally speaking, I would be pricing a new one from your Porsche Centre . Maybe  not as expensive as you might think.

Good job fixing it. Always satisfying when you are able to repair rather than just replace . 

I changed to braided hoses 6 years ago . Can’t say if there was a difference to the pedal feel tbh but they look better than ageing rubber hoses .

One essential thing to check is your brake pipes .

Remove the under tray running front to back and check them. They cannot be checked for MOT and I have seen a number , mine included when I bought it 9 years ago / 13 years old , totally rotten .

To be honest it’s not difficult. Plenty of online help / YouTube vids. Took me a morning to take everything apart and remove hood , hoops and centre console. 

Ta for helping 

2 minutes ago, letsmile said:

I copied the address into my search bar and the pic came up 👍

I obviously didn’t do it right then. I will have to work on it 

2 hours ago, dunks said:

I need to remove the hoops on mine at some point as Ive a silver set in garage waiting to be fitted... Any advice on how to remove and refit

 

It’s quite involved to be honest.

It helped that my seats are already out .

Remove side trims that cover the front hoop stays. The passenger side cover has a connector at the bottom for the micro switch . Make sure you disconnect it before removing completely.

Disconnect seat belts , put hood in service mode , remove carpet etc from top of engine lid.

Remove the hood completely then - 

VERY CAREFULLY ease the drip tray away from the rear stays of the hoop.Ease out the foam at the base of the rear and it’s 2 13mm nuts each side. Then 2 13mm nuts on the front base .

It will be easier to have a helper to allow easier removal and refitting of the hood and hoops.

Have fun.

7 minutes ago, letsmile said:

as a matter of interest how did you create that picture link???

Does it show the photo ? I tried to follow the post in Newbie Section.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/WBfZpMV.jpg[/img]

Just removed the hood and roll hoops .

Planning on getting the roll hoops painted at the same time as the seat backs. 

I bought my car 9.5 years ago at 92,000 miles with the fatalistic view that if the engine lets go then I would consider my options regarding repair then.

Currently at 124,500 miles and so far so good .

Should the worst happen then I’m quite likely to drop the engine and ship it off to Hartech. Maybe even a capacity increase to 3.7litres .

My strategy so far is to service regularly and rev hard 😈

No problem, hope that helps. 

Removed my front seats as I’m taking them for new bolster panels .

Also getting the seat base on the driver’s seat freshened up .

On 1/22/2022 at 8:19 AM, archemist said:

If the ignition switch is stiff - then it’s likely leaving the aux circuit activated when you remove the key.

…so the car thinks there still a key in the lock, and the remote locking won’t work. It also leave those circuits live which will flatten the battery in 24-48 hours. Usually leading to the alarm going off.

It will still let you lock via the door lock and key.

Check if the ignition lock clicks out (the usual detent spring ‘click’) when you remove the key…

Just to jump in here - mine has this problem quite often . 
Does the switch cause this or the complete locking mechanism need to be replaced? 

It’s been quite a while since I posted but …

replaced the clutch hydraulic pipe .

What a job !

On 11/15/2020 at 7:32 AM, map said:

It’s an awkward job alright. 

Why did it need changing?

It snapped at the plastic hinge ! That was an interesting drive home 😱

Fitted a new accelerator pedal assembly. What a pain ...