acgtrider

I have not owned the car for long. The previous owner had the arms and alignment carried out at our local main dealer and everything was in spec. Cheers

22 hours ago, RedBarediver said:

If you're close to him I would speak with Paul at Torque Boxster. He knows everything worth to know about these cars and would be able to give you a good steer on what needs to be done and how much it will be. I took mine to him for a check and a list of a) What HAS to be done, b) What has to be done but can wait, and c) what would be nice to have done. We started with a front suspension refresh and he did a great job. I plan to take it to him for the rear as well sometime soon. I've knocked off a few of the things he suggested (plastic covers etc) by going on eBay and putting the work in myself.

It might just be alignment but at 130,000 miles I would be very surprised if it didn't need any suspension work. The problem with wheel alignment is that it's very difficult to get it right if something is seized with rust, or worn out. From the sound of your symptoms though I would think a leaking shock absorber is the likely culprit. 

Not an expert - just my two cents.

Hi Unfortunately I couldn’t be further away. 
 

In theory the alignment Should be easy enough as the rear arms are max 18 Months and 5K miles old.

Got a few other projects on the go so shocks might have to wait a wee while. I agree dampers look most likely though.

Cheers

30 minutes ago, bally4563 said:

You are probably are down the right track, but don’t dismiss the obvious 

Very true ! I will start with the cheapest/simplest first. So wheel change then alignment and go from that  cheers 

53 minutes ago, RedBarediver said:

I had the same in my 2.5. It gave a sort of a little wiggle if you hit a small bump in the road when you're going around a corner. Didn't do it when you hit a bump going straight. Turned out the right rear shock was kaput. Replaced it with a second hand one from Steve Strange and all good. 

I plan to have the rear suspension refreshed by Paul Lewis (Torque Boxster) sometime soon, after he did such a great job on the front suspension.

Hi 

Thanks for that, sounds very like the feeling I’m getting. I’m probably just trying to avoid the inevitable that the rear shocks are past their best at 130k miles. A normal person not used to driving a boxster probably wouldn’t notice it but I do. Cheers again !

12 minutes ago, bally4563 said:

It’s all about advice and try to save you money 

Yea appreciate that !  cheers 

1 hour ago, bally4563 said:

Find a stretch of road with a bad camber , let go of the wheel and see if it quickly turns into it, that will give you a guide on your alignment, it should slowly drift and not immediately 

I must say the alignment feels good to me. I have driven many cars with the alignment way out after I have done suspension work and know the feeling you mean. I’ll try it again anyway to see ! Cheers

Had the car out on a 100 mile round trip on some great roads yesterday. The car felt great for the most part.

I didn’t notice the issue present as much at higher speeds but it’s really noticible at lower speeds where the surfaces are poor such as entering small villages and towns. It is a certain type of road imperfection/rut that causes it to get upset.

The rear shocks also happen to have a light hissing/squelch noise present when the roof is up. Can’t remember my other ones doing this but I could be wrong as some dampers are noisier than others.
 

cheers

Andrew

1 hour ago, ½cwt said:

@acgtrider has the problem developed after the new arms were fitted?  If so the geo could have moved if the bolts were not torqued correctly.  It is very difficult to apply the correct torque when the car is on a ramp with wheels on, i.e. the condition in which you have to do the geometry.  I always recheck the torque on mine after rear geo by popping it on axle stands, removing the wheels then lifting the hub to the equivalent resting position (Z=0), then apply the torque to the toe and camber bolts.  I know not everyone has this facility.

Hi 

The arms were fitted by the main dealer 12 months prior to my ownership. The previous owner said she had never felt the issue present. To be fair I am obsessed with trying to iron out all issues on my cars so I am always honed in on how they feel. This having been my fourth it’s interesting comparing them especially to our other 986. I have read of people having issues with incorrect torque on bolts so I will check them on the ramp. Great shout on trying quickfit or similar. I will get that done ASAP. Cheers

Hi guys 

it Is a possibility that the Geo could be out but I’m not so sure. I’m also a bit apprehensive about spending the 100 plus quid for it to still be out and then need doing again after struts If it turns out to be that. Saying that it might be worth having it checked for peace of mind. 
 

Cheers

20 minutes ago, EXY said:

 

Might still be worth asking/borrowing a set of wheels just to rule them out.

I'm sure if you ask someone on here will lend you a pair of suitable wheels/tyres for a comparison drive just to rule it out.

I was of the same thinking as Meno in the second post with the engine mount. Did you replace the spacers either side of the front mount?

Edit;

Just thinking, perhaps it would be worthwhile asking Centre Gravity for their take, they come highly recommended. 

https://centergravity.co.uk/

Yea ! I’ll try on the Carrera classics off out other boxster to be sure. 
 

I was also hoping it was the engine mount but the new bushing has not cured it.

I have had this on another boxster but sold it prior to delving into shock replacement.

I live up in the north east of Scotland so decent indi garages are hard to come by. I also do all my own spannering haha.

thsnks for the help so far guys.

Cheers

26 minutes ago, phazed said:

I will definitely question tyres.

I have had with several cars over the years, as the tread gets down to the last few millimetres, the car tramlines and follows imperfections and repairs in the road.

Hi 

Tyres are 2020 pirelli P zero with over 6MM of tread, while not my favoured tyre they are ok. so i am pretty certain its not the tyres. Its not really a tram lining issue but more of a rear end movement/rebound damping issue id say.

4 hours ago, Nobbie said:

At 130k, I think the struts are likely to be pretty shot if mine were anything to go by when I replaced at 140k. There were no leaks visible on them, but they had lost most of their damping ability. I never noticed anything going over bumps, but I was new to the car so didn’t know what to expect. The effect I did notice was a floaty feel when driving along fast slightly undulating A roads as the undulations weren’t being damped out effectively. Probably would have affected the sort of issues you describe.

Hi 

Thanks for the reply. That is exactly my thinking, on all my previous cars the dampers have been shot long before 130K so i don't know why i am telling my self the boxster is any different.

Looks like a pair of rear shocks is on the cards then.

Cheers

Hi folks

Yea the previous owner of 16 years kept up a full OPC history and all works were carried out by them.

the tyres are pirelli with a date code of mid 2020.

there are not really any clunks. I have replaced the rear tuning forks on my last 3 Boxster’s due to the snooker ball rattle. I wonder what effect they have on the ride/ handling as it’s a monoball joint. 
 

cheers

Hi folks

trying to find the source of the rear end wobble over bumps on my dads 986 with 130K miles.

It is most noticeable over small grooves and strips in the road. It feels as though the rear end shuffles side to side.

The car has fresh genuine Porsche arms all round with exception of the rear tuning forks which are original. New engine mount bushing and low mileage gearbox bushings. Alignment was done recently at the main dealer after the arms were fitted.
 

I am thinking the car is due a rear strut replacement although there are no signs of leaks. Fronts we’re done 40k ago and feel great.

Any help would be much appreciated as it’s reducing his enjoyment of the car.

Cheers

Hi Nick.

There are values online of the amount of movement deemed acceptable. If it falls outwith these limits I would replace with a LUK flywheel. These are OE quality and should suit your application perfectly without breaking the bank for a Porsche supplied part. Personally I would avoid used part unless you know it’s age/mileage and know it to be in VGC  

Andrew

On 5/25/2021 at 10:37 PM, ½cwt said:

On a 986 or a 987??  On a 986, particularly without traction control (don't know if @Pordave has traction or not), that's quite narrow on the back.

On 5/25/2021 at 10:37 PM, ½cwt said:

On a 986 or a 987??  On a 986, particularly without traction control (don't know if @Pordave has traction or not), that's quite narrow on the back.

986 2.7 facelift with no traction control. Never had any issues, found it improved turn in nicely and I drove the car very hard on a regular basis. 

I went for a square 225/45/17 setup on all 4 wheels. Got 4X PS4’s at Costco for £280

36 minutes ago, Patt said:

Belts should be like this (The padding was to stop the rattles plus I found the girls complained the belt cut into their neck due to the lower position):

That’s how I fitted them following the guide in 101 projects book ! Thanks for clarification though. 

6 hours ago, edc said:

Nice seats and on my wishlist for some time. an*l mode on they're not Pole Positions. Also noticed you haven't threaded the seatbelt through. 

Yea they are design 911 Gt3 seats ! Have the crest on the headrest which is a nice touch. Don’t worry the belt is threaded correctly through. That pic was taken as soon as it was bolted in, I was too excited to wait ha 😂.

7 hours ago, nick_johnson said:

Superb, this is my ultimate modification. 

Is the seating position much lower with the pole positions fitted and do you feel that your any further back? They look in great condition, how did you come by them? 

Thanks. I came by then by chance, someone had them fitted to their 986, after weeks of talks he decided to sell ! They are the design911 ones if I am not mistaken ! It is a bit lower but not too much ! They are bolted to original Porsche sliders so can be adjusted back and forth. 

Fitted Gt3 seats. Passenger side still to go in but mega chuffed