DaveEFI

Snag is I've got a nice trip this weekend and would like the roof working properly. And the bits from Ebay will likely not come till next week. Took it to the specialist this morning at about 0845, and just had a call saying it's ready. They have fitted new pushrods both sides - and sorted the elastic too. I've asked for the old pushrods back so I can fit new ball joints and keep them as spares - seems Porsche only supply the pushrods complete.

Sure this has been covered many times, so sorry. 2011 S with 40k miles. Roof opened often. Loud crack behind my head when opening it yesterday, but opened properly. Another loud crack when closing it.

Looked at it today. Went to open it and the windows dropped, the apron opened, but hood didn't move. Opening it by hand (moved easily) and could see the broken white ball joint on the driver side - operating lever detached. Other side OK.  Would take a week to get spare ball joints by post, so got it booked into my local Porsche specialist tomorrow, and hope they can fix it more quickly. But not used them before.

But curious what stopped the hood motor running?  And hoping something very expensive hasn't broken too?

3 hours ago, Menoporsche said:

Cruise seems a bit unwieldy for a stop start urban environment. Is there a speed limit beep on the car somewhere?

Yes there is, and I'm using it. But not sure how easy the cruise is to switch on and off? On other cars I've had with cruise, it had a dedicated control.

On 2/1/2022 at 9:48 AM, Camels said:

Hi @DaveEFI I am also in a 20mph borough (Richmond) and factory-fit cruise on my 2011 987.2 works fine at 20 - was a bit surprised at first that the PDK always wants to settle in 4th gear for such a low speed!

Yes. Mine does too. And quite tricky to maintain a constant 20 ish MPH, compared to my other car.  I'm told the official - ie government way - to make this easier is to lock it in second gear. So much for the environment.😊

In London UK, much of it now has a 20 mph speed limit. Does a cruise control work at 20? If so, is it possible to retro fit one at a reasonable cost? My previous 987-1 had cruise, but never tried it at such a low speed.

On 12/31/2021 at 5:07 PM, TV8 said:

I put these on my 987.1 with projectors (big lens is visible) . You have to cut the cover of the headlight case to put the ballast outside but fantastic light output  you can keep the ballast inside but I wasn’t happy doing that as it’s a bit of a squeeze! There are a couple of write ups on here and it’s an easy job 

H7 HIDS4U Stealth 55W Xenon HID 

I managed to fit the power supply inside the housing. Same kit.

On 11/11/2021 at 9:29 PM, Dubdubz said:

If I could get a complete set of parts - read a car with a dead engine - is this possible?

Guessing there's coding to be done and I know there will be a lot of work and dismantling...I think the biggest issue is likely the clocks/dash in reality?

 

Yes I could sell and buy a tip, but with prices the way they are I'm not sure if this is a route I want to take...

probably madness and literal the definition of stupidity?

Given how many parts would be needed, the only sane way would be to find a complete donor car. And even then, a vast amount of work. Oh - having owned a Tip, the Porsche installation of the ZF 5 HP is the worst I've known in any car that uses it. If you must have an auto, get a PDK.

Is the manual transmission the same as a 911?  Increasing the torque through any transmission is likely to shorten its life.

13 hours ago, earley231186 said:

I will try this. 

I'll say again. I drove a few before buying my 05. Didn't notice any difference in exhaust noise between them.  On a test drive. Only after buying and everyday use did the droning when not being driven hard start to annoy. Of course others might love it. I'd ask a trusted specialist if your car is normal or has a fault. My current 987-2 has a much quieter exhaust when driven gently - but then the road noise becomes more apparent. And there's not much can be done about that.

7 hours ago, ½cwt said:

I totally agree it is a cheap component, but how much corrosion is there inside there given how much you can see outside? You can't see it so to guarantee it is OK you need to replace it.  This is where the repair option builds in cost to remove and replace components like this on a compact circuit board.

Yes - it's a specialist job fixing a PCB. But is possible to DIY, if you have the skills and tools.

11 hours ago, ½cwt said:

+1 - I spent some time in the restoration business for equipment that had been in floods or fires.  A board looking like that with components of that nature would have gone in the skip I'm afraid as you can't tell what is happening inside those nice NEC plastic covers.  The alarm module board from my 986 looked better than that but still has on failed circuit, fortunately a minor one I have managed to by-pass with a suitable feed but ideally would ahve been changed.  I'm just doing my best to make sure it doesn't get wet again.

The NEC ET2F-N3 is just a relay. Costs about £3.

1 hour ago, ricof said:

It’s been ‘saved’ twice now. I’m insisting on a new one. Roughly £300 

I doubt any garage has the time, experience or equipment to clean it properly. But given their hourly rate, not worth it if new costs £300. Bit the same as a PCB on your domestic boiler. They can be repaired by a specialist at a good saving over new. But most just fit new.

21 hours ago, ricof said:

I borrowed one from a neighbour (who incidentally works for a OPC) and that did the job. Just dropped it off at the specialist and we looked at the rear control unit it was completely sodden and green with corrosion. 
 

Clearly that’s the cause and they are going to replace it. I agreed to pay only for the part, they will be covering the cost of everything else (including the roof pushrods which broke on account of the damaged control unit which they admitted they should have replaced last time). 
 

Fingers crossed. 

That may be savable with a good clean. How much is a new one?

17 hours ago, ricof said:

My jumper pack is useless, won't start the car. Pray for no rain tonight!

What does it say in the instructions? Most are only suitable for under 2 litres. If your battery is very flat.

On 10/23/2021 at 10:56 AM, Andy9376 said:

Could that cause a leak? 

Not really. Sounds like you need a recon unit. Which is best bought from a supplier you trust, as there are cowboys out there.

On 10/20/2021 at 8:49 AM, earley231186 said:

I have a 05 Boxster, it's new to me. I find the exhaust to be very loud under idle and any load. 

 

I have checked it over I can't identify any blows anywhere. I replaced the gaskets and dreaded bolts that connect the pipes. 

 

Today a Cayman pulled up same engine and standard exhaust, it was massively quieter than my car. 

 

Any ideas? Or is this just a case of its 16 years old now and it's worn out? 

My first Boxster was an 05 too, with full history, and no mention of a new exhaust being fitted. Low miles, so the exhaust should have been to spec. And didn't like the noise it made when not in a hurry - a constant drone. Now have a 2011 S, and that is fine when driven gently (like round town) but makes a nice noise when pushed.

17 hours ago, Andy9376 said:

That sounds a bit more reasonable, thanks a lot. I assume it can’t be fixed then? 

It does depend what the problem is. A common problem is worn inner track rod ends, and new track rods can be fitted in situ. But most garages are simply fitters, so will want to fit an exchange or new unit.

It should be quite easy to find a really good older example within your budget. Many are pampered toys so not get the same wear and tear as an everyday car. My first one, bought about 5 years ago for £13500 was an 05, so early 987. One owner and low miles, and mint. No problems with it, except I didn't like the auto, so changed to my current PDK after a couple of years. And this one's a keeper.

In most of the UK we've had free or concessions on PT for OAPs for long before Khan was mayor. And free travel for LT employees and their immediate family.

The average base pay for a tube driver is £55,000. And, of course, it involves 7 day shift working which can start before 5am. And not a job many would fancy - sitting on your own in a dark tunnel for most of the day.

19 hours ago, 818 said:

640a is too small for a 6 cyl lump imo, I wanted maximum cranking power for cold weather so fitted that 85ah 800A one above, it’s quite a bit longer than the one that came out but easily fits

 

 

My other car is a 3.5 litre V8. Standard battery for that is  a 70 amp hour with 630 CCA. A larger battery than needed is simply adding weight and costs. I'd go for the maker's one recommended for your model. To get best battery life, just make sure it doesn't get heavily discharged. As can happen on a little used car, if you don't use an external charger. A larger battery may, of course, give you few more days before this happens. But if being left unused for more than 3 weeks or so either disconnect the battery or use an external charger.

10 minutes ago, Angus76 said:

Well... I got Halfords to price match Tayna so £40 off!

My current battery has what looks like a drain straw poking out of it. I don’t think the Yuasa one does? I can see a red bung to the right hand side. 

That is a vent. It should have plastic tube connected to it, and run to the outside, clear of bodywork.

On 10/13/2021 at 3:41 PM, dpg123 said:

Unfortunately for us, TFL has always been a money raising vehicle for the Mayor. In our case, the Mayor has brought in the ULEZ as well as extending the Congestion Zone charge to basically 24/7 as a money making exercise to spend on vanity & vote winning projects. Very little of this has anything to do with the environment or congestion. People who drive into the ULEZ/Congestion Zones are doing it through necessity - the traffic is so hideous the train/tube is nearly always a faster option. TFL have zero interest in reducing the money they can make by informing anyone of the fact their database is a load of rubbish.

Vanity? Due to the pandemic and vastly reduced income, TFL is in financial problems. Vanity projects were near exclusive to the last mayor, Bojo, who is now PM. The garden bridge. Estuary airport. Those vast and expensive Boris buses. And so on. Not saying I think the ULEZ either a good idea or well implemented. Since there are a vast number of modern diesels which passed a lab test so are compliant on paper, but exceed the emissions in practice.

17 hours ago, Angus76 said:

Hi, I’ve not driven the car for a few days and the battery is not turning the engine. I can unlock etc. 

 

Multi meter shows 11.53v so I think it’s life is over! 

 

Could anyone recommend a replacement battery? 

 

I dont think there’s a special procedure is there in changing it? Other than windows up and down afterwards? And drive for steering angle sensor etc..

Will the alarm go off? 

 

Thanks very much 👍

A simple voltage check does not show the condition of the battery. It needs to be tested under high current load. The voltage difference between the battery no load and with everything switched on - main beam, heater etc, may give a better clue. But charge the battery first. If the car then starts, take it to a battery specialist and ask them to test it using specialist equipment.

14 hours ago, McDonald said:

I've found 245/40/Y19 Michelin Cross Climate online with Kw?ikfit. Would these fit my rear wheels? 

You may have found a solution for me. I hadn't considered changing the dimensions. 

I'd say you'd have to drastically reduce the width of the tyre to get decent performance in winter conditions. Which would likely need new wheels too?

7 hours ago, Paul P said:

A mate once discovered that the irreparable damage done to a tyre by tyre sealant was miraculously fixed by the insertion of a 20 pound bits into the hands of the tyre fitter.  
 

the issue he was told is that the machines they use to pull the tyre off the rim and the inside of the tyre need a wash post sealant and that’s a level of service that isn’t part of the standard pricing.  

With tyres well over 200 quid each, having to pay a little more to fix a puncture likely worth while, if plenty tread left.